Welcome to SP!  -
Clocher de Planpraz

Clocher de Planpraz

Clocher de Planpraz

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Haute Savoie, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.94492°N / 6.84337°E

Object Title: Clocher de Planpraz

Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Summer

Elevation: 7966 ft / 2428 m


Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: Sep 3, 2012 / Aug 21, 2017

Object ID: 811311

Hits: 3978 

Page Score: 87.31%  - 24 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote



Clocher de Planpraz 2428 m

The Clocher de Planpraz – or Clocher de Plampra - is a gneiss tower overlooking the town of Chamonix and belonging to the fascinating group of Aiguilles Rouges, situated just in front of a world famous neighbour: the Mont Blanc! These magnificent “aiguilles” are lying like an awesome balcony towards the Northern side of Mont Blanc group: the view over the main summit and over the Aiguilles de Chamonix is exceptional! The gneiss of Aiguilles Rouges is less rough than the famous Mont Blanc red granite, but it’s rich of sharp holds: the climbing way is very pleasant and technical. When the sudden summer snowfalls preclude the climb in Mont Blanc group, often Aiguilles Rouge are quite climbable, when bad weather is approaching the area this group offers the opportunity of a short climbing day.

On Clocher de Planpraz, facing Mont Blanc
On Cocher Cochon, facing Mont Blanc

Clocher de Planpraz
On Label Virginie middle section

The Clocher de Planpraz is the highest one of a group of five needles: the great classic traverse of Clocher de Planpraz - Clochetons de Planpraz ridge became famous because of the marvellous guide-book “100 best climbs in the Mount Blanc Massif” by the great Gaston Rebuffat.

In the Aiguilles Rouges group there are numberless great trad climbing routes and modern ones; these last ones, often climbed in reason of their first-class gneiss, had been realized starting from the last two ten-years periods. Aiguilles Rouge’s reputation is also due to their fine environment, short approaches, various multipitch routes of all standards and the extraordinary situation “face au Mont Blanc”!

Mont Blanc Group Northern view annotated pano
"Face au Mont Blanc" - Ph. Silvia Mazzani

Getting There

The starting point is Chamonix-Mont Blanc m. 1087.

Main road approachs

- From Aosta Valley (Italy) - Follow the E25 Motorway towards Courmayeur, then the Mont Blanc Tunnel to Chamonix (65 km. from Aosta)

- From Martigny (Switzerland) - Follow the road leading to the Switzerland – France border, then to the village of Argentiere and to Chamonix (45 km. from Martigny, 13 km. from the border)

- From Geneve (Switzerland) - Follow the E25 Motorway to St. Gervais les Bains, then the RN 205 to Chamonix

Approach to the walk starting point

- From the lower station of the Brevent cable-car in Chamonix m. 1087 take the Planpraz cable-car (the first section of the Brevent cable-car); exit the middle station of Planpraz m. 1999.

Clocher de Planpraz Routes Overview (French scale)

- Clocher de Planpraz - Clochetons de Planpraz Traverse D-, F5a max, 400 m.
First ascent of Clocher: Jean and Joseph Demarchi 1911
First traverse: A. Agussol – J. Le Bec – T. de Lepiney 1913
A superb little traverse on excellent rock starting from the col on the left-hand side of Clocher and leading to the summits of Clocher, Little Clocher, First Clocheton, Second Clocheton and Third Clocheton. Trad equipment, friends useful.

- Cocher-Cochon TD-, F6a max, F5b obbl., 250 m. First ascent: M. Franc – J. Franc – M. Meot – C. Mussat 13-8-2000 Excellent modern route. Equipped with bolts.

- Label-Virginie D+, F5c max, F5b obbl., 250 m. First ascent: Y. Brucker – J. Cellier – M. Meot 11-7-2007 Another excellent modern route. Equipped with bolts.

Clochetons de Planpraz
Clochetons de Planpraz seen from the route Label Virginie
The Gaston Rebuffat icon
The Clochetons de Planpraz, a Gaston Rebuffat icon
Cucu ...trying to come out from the last chimney-crack!
Exit from the chimney up to the ending ridge on Label Virginie

- NW Ridge F4b First ascent: A. Charlet – C. Devouassoux 1920

- West Face F4a First ascent: E. Fontaine – J. Ravanel 1910

- Hotel California (Planpraz Slopes) AD+, F5a max, F4b obbl., 270 m.

Acces to Clocher de Planpraz - Clochetons de Planpraz traverse

From the Planpraz station m. 1999 follow the Brevent path (signs “Clocher-Clochetons), leading to a sharp turn to left. Here quit the main path and follow a narrow trail with cairns rising to the W Col of Clocher de Planpraz.

Clocher de Planpraz, Petit Clocher and Clochetons
Clocher de Planpraz, Petit Clocher and Clochetons seen from Label Virginie

The return's path, facing Mont Blanc
Face au Mont Blanc

Access to Clocher de Planpraz South-East Routes

From the Planpraz station m. 1999 follow on your right-hand side the good trail to Cornu Lake (signs), reaching at first the bottom slabs of Hotel California, then crossing a scree. After the scree leave the main path and rise along a steep grassy and rocky slope, leading to the left towards Cocher-Cochon route and to the right towards Label Virginie route (45 minutes from the Planpraz station).

Red Tape

No restrictions in climbing and hiking, no permits, no fees.

Clocher de Planpraz, the tiny summit
The tiny summit of Clocher de Planpraz
Label Virginie: the crux
Label Virginie: the crux
Rhododendron along the approach to Clocher de Planpraz - Aiguilles Rouges
Rhododendron along the approach

When to climb

Best season goes from the end of June to the end of September.

Where to stay

Chamonix is a primary destination, offering various kind of accomodation (hotels, huts, gites, renting rooms). Numberless campsites are situated both in the Northern and Southern ends of the town. Main campsites:

- Camping la Mer de Glace - Les Praz (3 km. North to Chamonix) +33(0)450534403
- Camping les Deux Glaciers - Les Bossons (3 km. South to Chamonix) +33(0)450531584
- Camping les Arolles - close to the centre of Chamonix - +33(0)450531430
- Camping les Cimes - Les Bossons (3 km. South to Chamonix) +33(0)450535893
- Camping les Marmottes - +33(0)450536124
- Camping Glacier d'Argentière - Argentière (8 km. North to Chamonix) +33(0)450541736

Other info

- Office du Tourisme de Chamonix - Phone +33 0450 530024
Chamonix Mont-Blanc

- Office de la Haute Montagne de Chamonix www.ohm-chamonix.com - Phone +33 0450 532208

- Cable-car informations www.chamonix.com www.compagniedumontblanc.fr - Phone +33 0450 532275


Meteo Chamonix

Guidebooks and maps

Clocher de Planpraz map


    “Les Aiguilles Rouges – Face au Mont Blanc” by Michel Piola – This guidebook is in English text throughout.

    "Monte Bianco classico & plaisir" by Marco Romelli, Edizioni Idea Montagna 2013

    “Alpes Francaises du Nord” by Hervè Galley

    "Mont Blanc & the Aiguilles Rouges" selected climbs guidebook


    IGN 3630 OT Chamonix 1:25.000


    Clochetons de PlanprazLabel Virginie, below the crux wall - Clocher de PlanprazThe Gaston Rebuffat iconClocher de PlanprazA particular of the Bosson Glacier (Mont Blanc)A party climbing Cocher Cochon, Clocher de PlanprazThe return\'s path, facing Mont Blanc
    Label Virginie, the cruxClocher de Planpraz, Petit Clocher and ClochetonsCucu\'...trying to exit the last chimney! - Clocher de PlanprazOn Clocher de Planpraz, facing Mont BlancLes Aiguilles Rouges GuidebookMont Blanc Group Northern view annotated panoLabel Virginie seventh pitch\'s wall, Clocher de Planpraz
    [ View Gallery - 6 More Images ]