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Pointe Gaspard
Mountain/Rock

Pointe Gaspard

 
Pointe Gaspard

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Haute Savoie, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.97734°N / 6.87083°E

Object Title: Pointe Gaspard

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Summer

Elevation: 8993 ft / 2741 m

 

Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: Nov 22, 2013 / Nov 22, 2013

Object ID: 877009

Hits: 483 

Page Score: 82.95%  - 16 Votes 

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Overview

Pointe Gaspard m. 2741

Pointe Gaspard m. 2741 is a fine peak belonging to the interesting chain of Aiguilles Rouges, lying nearby the French side of Mont Blanc Massif and divided from this one by the Arve Valley. The highest point of the chain is the Aiguille du Belvédère m. 2965. As the other summits belonging to the group Pointe Gaspard is built in a gneiss of good quality and lies in an awesome position, just a balcony in front of the Aiguilles de Chamonix, Grandes Jorasses and Mont Blanc main summit. The view is quite magnificent. The gneiss of Aiguilles Rouges is less rough than the Mont Blanc granite, but it’s rich of sharp holds: the climbing way is very pleasant and technical. When the unsettled weather precludes the ascents in Mont Blanc group, often Pointe Gaspard as the other summits of the group is quite climbable.
In the Aiguilles Rouges group there are numberless great trad climbing routes and modern ones; these last ones, often climbed for their first-class gneiss, had been realized starting from the last two ten-years periods. Aiguilles Rouge’s reputation is also due to their fine environment, short approaches, various multipitch routes of all standards and its extraordinary position.
On Pointe Gaspard South face we can choose amongst three excellent routes starting directly from Chamonix early in the morning.

 
The limestone massif of Aravis from Pointe Gaspard
The Massif of Aravis from the summit of Pointe Gaspard
 
On the descent ridge
On Pointe Gaspard North ridge




Getting There

 
Grandes Jorasses, Aiguilles de Chamonix and Mont Blanc in early summer
Grandes Jorasses, Aiguilles de Chamonix and Mont Blanc seen from the approach trail
 
Small alpine lake along the approach trail
A small alpine lake along the approach



The starting point is the town of Chamonix-Mont Blanc m. 1087.

Main road access to Chamonix Mont Blanc


- From Aosta Valley (Italy) - Follow the E25 Motorway towards Courmayeur, then the Mont Blanc Tunnel to Chamonix (65 km. from Aosta)

- From Martigny (Switzerland) - Follow the road leading to the Switzerland – France border, then to the village of Argentiere and to Chamonix (45 km. from Martigny, 13 km. from the border)

- From Geneve (Switzerland) - Follow the E25 Motorway to St. Gervais les Bains, then the RN 205 to Chamonix

Most of the range can be easily accessed by the Flégère and Brévent lifts directly from Les Praz (Flégère) and Chamonix (Brévent).

More information here:

BREVENT-LA FLEGERE


Approach

From Chamonix Mont-Blanc head towards NE and reach the village of Les Praz (3 km. from Chamonix). Take the cable-car to “La Flegere”, then the Index chair-lift.
From the Index lift station follow towards right (North) the nice trail towards the Col des Crochues, skirting the Grande Floria. The views over the Aiguilles de Chamonix and Mont Blanc are breathtaking. Cross a scree - or a snow fields in early summer - walking towards the Col des Crochues, lying between Pointe Gaspard on the left and Aiguille des Crochues on the right. Rise on a few hairpins on the main trail, when getting to the level of the bottom of Pointe Gaspard spurn leave it and follow on the left a poor trail skirting the face and leading to the starting point of the various routes. 40 minutes from the Index station.


Red Tape

 
Nice puppy of Ibex along Pointe Gapard approach
Nice meet on the path to Col des Crochues



The chain of Aiguilles Rouges has been inserted since 1974 inside the Rèserve Naturelle des Aiguilles Rouges. No particulary restrictions in climbing and hiking. Free camping is not allowed.

Routes overview

 
On Gaspard Premier
Gaspard Premier upper pitches


Pointe Gaspard main routes

- Normal route via the Col des Crochues and North Ridge

Usually climbed to descent from the summit. An easy scramble up to the Col des Crochues, then a moderate climb along the North Ridge.

South face

Three excellent modern climbing

- Lady in black TD- / 6a m. 150 Equipped with bolts
- Post ED- / 6b+ m. 150 Equipped with bolts
- Gaspard Premiere D+ / 6a m. 200 Equipped with bolts



Descent: from the summit downclimb on easy terrain (max UIAA III) - or make one abseil - along the North Ridge, getting the Col des Crochues between Pointe Gaspard and Aiguille des Crochues.
Scramble down the gully on the East side, at first with easy climb (max UIAA I-II), then walking on a scree or a snow slope (in early summer) getting the approach path.


Where to stay

Chamonix is a primary touristic destination. Hotels, huts, gites, renting rooms. Numberless campings are situated in the Northern and Southern ends of the town.

Main campsites:

- Camping la Mer de Glace - Les Praz (3 km. North to Chamonix) +33(0)450534403
- Camping les Deux Glaciers - Les Bossons (3 km. South to Chamonix) +33(0)450531584
- Camping les Arolles - close to the centre of Chamonix - +33(0)450531430
- Camping les Cimes - Les Bossons (3 km. South to Chamonix) +33(0)450535893
- Camping Glacier d'Argentière - Argentière (8 km. North to Chamonix) +33(0)450541736
- Camping les Marmottes - +33(0)450536124

When to climb

Best season goes from middle June to the end of September.

Meteo

METEO CHAMONIX

METEO FRANCE

Useful info

- Office du Tourisme de Chamonix Phone +33 0450 530024
Chamonix Mont-Blanc


- Office de la Haute Montagne de Chamonix Phone +33 0450 532208
Office de la Haute Montagne


- Cable-car informations Phone +33 0450 532275
CompagnieduMontBlanc

Guidebooks and maps

 
Pointe Gaspard map
 
“Les Aiguilles Rouges – Face au Mont Blanc” by Michel Piola –

"Monte Bianco classico & plaisir" by Marco Romelli, Edizioni Idea Montagna 2013

“Alpes Francaises du Nord” by Hervè Galley

Map

IGN 3630 OT Chamonix 1:25.000

Images