OverviewCrête de la Taillante m. 3197
Crête de la Taillante, or more simply Taillante, is an extraordinary threethousander belonging to Alpi Cozie Meridionali, defined by W.A.B. Coolidge as "one of the strangest peaks of the Alps", because of its peculiar shape. It is located in the region of Queyras, North to Colle dell’Agnello, in the upper Valle del Guil, Ristolas municipality, and develops along a magnificent 4 km. long summit crest, sharp as a knife’s blade, and perpendicular to the main alpine divide, detaching from this one nearby Pan di Zucchero; this peculiarity explains and gives the name to the peak (in French “taillant” means “sharp”). Crête de la Taillante has three summits lined up on the long summit crest: the Northern one is the highest (m. 3197), the Central m. 3185 and the Southern is the lower (m. 3178).
Danse avec les loups topo
Getting ThereRoad access
The starting point to climb Taillante is a pull-out inside a hairpin on the road D205T between the Refuge Agnel m. 2580 and Col Agnel m. 2600.
- From France: from Guillestre follow the road D902 (Route du Queyras), at a fork take on the right the road D947 to Chateau en Queyras, then the road D205T to Molines en Queyras to the pull-out beyond the Rifugio Agnel.
- From Italy: from Turin (Caselle international airport) take the A6 Torino-Savona Motorway, exit Saluzzo. Take the road to Valle Varaita, getting to Sampeyre, Casteldelfino, Pontechianale, Chianale and Colle dell’Agnello m. 2748 on the Italy-France border. Descent about 2 km. on the French side of the col as far as a road pull-out on the right at 2650 m., between the col and the Refuge Agnel.
Walking approach to Crête de la Taillante
From the pull-out on the road D205T between the Refuge Agnel and Col Agnel take the path GR58 to Col Vieux m. 2806, getting to the col after 30 min. Follow on the right a path descending in the wide valley towards the lake Forèant, then head to right towards the base of Taillante, following an uncertain path (some marks and cairns) getting to the starting point of the Normal route.
HistoryFirst summiters: Paul Guillemin and Hyacinthe Véeritier, 1876 september the 7th
Red TapeNo particularly restriction in climbing and mountaineering. Taillante lies inside a Natural Reserve. Free camping is not allowed and fires are strictly forbidden. The whole fauna and flora are protected. Don’t disturb fauna and other mountaineering and hikers’ peacefulness with every kind of noise.
Taillante main routes- West side Normal route F+
This route is a long scramble involving some short moves grading II UIAA
- North-South ridge traverse AD+ W.A.B. Coolidge with Christian Almer 1884, August 15th
- South-North ridge traverse D- E. Frendo – F. Woehrlè
- Science Friction - D-, 5b, 5a obbl. 200 m. Five pitches route - The descent from this route is done traversing right (facing in) on a ledge to join the normal route
- Danse avec les loups (SW Face) D, 5c max (5b obbl.) 350 m. + 300 m. along the crest S. Pusnel and Cherbonnier 1999 - The great modern classic of the peak, allow a pleasant climb on solid rock, developing on 12 pitches and besides along a section of the summit ridge.
Danse avec les loups (Dance with the wolves) reportDanse avec les loups (Dance with the wolves)
Summit altitude: m. 3197
Difficulty: D, French 5c (5b obbl.)
Equipment: distanced fix, equipped belays
Climbing length: 350 m. + 400 m. on the summit crest
First ascent: S. Pusnel and Cherbonnier 1999
Starting point: Road D205T between Rifugio Agnel and Col Agnel
The great modern classic of the SW face, a long "course" developing on 12 pitches along the slabs and besides climbing a section of the summit ridge.
The style is mainly technical on slabs sometimes smooth, anyhow the climb is always pleasant, on solid rock.
Danse avec les loups report - French scale
L1 Climb the wide and impressive smooth slabs following the open corner on the left of the slabs - 4a
L2 Again up the corner - 4a
L3 Start to leave the corner climbing slanting right on steeper rocks - 4c
L4 Traverse again right on level and with increasing difficulties - 5a
L5 Last moves on the smooth slabs, then climb a short overhanging wall and head to right to the belay- 5c crux
L6-L7 Climb a wide corner - 3b
L8 Slab 4b
L9-L10 Steeper slabs 4c
L11-L12 Last two pitches on easier slabs led on the notch along the summit crest
Normal routeWest side Normal route
Difficulty: Scramble (some short moves grading II UIAA)
Ascent’s length: 820 m.
Total length: 1650 m.
Total time: 6 hours
A peculiar ascent, staying between hiking and easy mountaineering. Taillante Normal route develops on tracks marked with rare cairns, following a system of ledges broken off by rocky walls, crossing the West face and incredibly allowing to climb easily the impressive 400 meters high slabs
Where to stayRefuge Agnel
Phone: 0033 4 92 45 83 90
Mobile: 0033 6 60 79 83 90
When to climbBest season goes from the end of June to middle September
MeteoMeteo Regione Piemonte
Guidebooks and maps
“Monte Viso – Alpi Cozie Meridionali” by Michelangelo Bruno - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia C.A.I. TCI
“3000 sans frontier – Alpes du Sud” by Bernard Ranc and Antoine Pirovano, 1997
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