Symbol of the Oisans Massive with the LA MEIJE and the BARRE DES ECRINS, the Aiguille Dibona usually called Dibona is a striking mountain. When you discover the needle, as you walk through the Soreiller gorges, you will always have the same emotion, endless gazing to this jewel of the nature.
No mountain is so extraordinary, no mountain has a so pure shape. It is difficult to imagine himself on the summit of such an arrow. But actually, the Dibona is a granit blade placed side by side to the Aiguilles du Soreiller, and his spectacular profile seen from the hut path is misleading : from the side the slender decreases and the back is a (relative) easy flagstone.
Dibona symbolizes mountain climbing in a perfect way. Rebuffat himself wrote about Dibona : "This needle is a monument of stone given to mankind by the earth and the time, an extraordinary sculpture in the sky, the light and the silence of Oisans. The same achievements of the climbers on an other mountain would not be so marvellous. This needle was a question, climbing on her a response".
Start point is LES ETAGES , a little hamlet located 3 km before La Bérarde in the high Veneon, valley of the Oisans Massive, department Isère. The Veneon can be reached over Bourg d'Oisans.
To Bourg d'Oisans :
1) Coming from France
Nearest airport : Lyon Satolas
Station : Grenoble
From Grenoble, N 85 (Napoleon street) to Vizille, then N 91to Bourg d'Oisans.
2) Coming from Italy
Nearest airport : Torino
From Torino, highway to Susa, Col de Mongenèvre, Briançon, Col du Lautaret, , La Grave, Bourg d'Oisans. 4 km before Bourg d'Oisans, turn to the left direction Venosc and La Bérarde.
From Bourg d'Oisans
-By the road :
Direction Briançon on RN 91, 4 km after Bourg d'Oisans, turn to the right (Veneon Valley)
-By bus :
Between Grenoble and La Bérarde, 3 buses per day in july and august. Rest of the year, only one bus at saturday on reservation.
- No permits, no fees, maybe parking fees in peek season.
- The Dibona and the Veneon Valley are located in the National Park of Ecrins.
When To Climb
Climb the South face from late spring until early fall.
- BUREAU DES GUIDES ET ACCOMPAGNATEURS DU VENEON
La Bérarde - Meije - Ecrins
38520 St Christophe en Oisans
Summer Tél. 04 76 79 54 83 - Fax 04 76 79 23 12
Winter Tél. 04 76 80 52 72 - Fax 04 76 79 58 42
All the routes begin at Soreiller Hut (2730 m)
Access to the hut in 3 hours from Les Etages. Gradient 1200 m. The hut climb is relatively steep and this since the beginning, and the hut is visible in the high nearly all the way long !
Next day, wake up is often at 5 h 00 and start time 6 h00 . There is no glacier to cross and it is also possible to climb in the afternoon.
PRINCIPAL ROUTES :
1) N ridge = Normal Route PD 3 h 30 (difficulties : 1 h)
The normal route can be lengthened with the traverse of the Clochetons Gunneng
Normal route has 3 sections :
- From the Soreiller Hut to the Pinnacles Breach (3048 m)
- Traverse under the Pinnacles to the Gunneng Breach (3080 m)
- N ridge climb
2) S Face Coup de Bambou TD +
3) S Face Madier Route TD See also SP route description
4) S Face Visite Obligatoire TD + See also SP route description
5) S Face Voie des Savoyards TD
6) E Face Martine is on the rock TD
7) S Face Combinaison Madier-Berthet-Boell-Stoffer D
- LES FETOULES *
Le Plan du Lac (between Vénosc and Saint Christophe en Oisans, 10 km from Les Etages) 35 pl
Brigitte & Bernard TEILLER
Tél. 04 76 80 23 99
- CAMPING MUNICIPAL ***
La Bérarde ( 3 km after les Etages) 165 places
Tél. 04 76 79 20 45
Le Soreiller Hut
LE SOREILLER HUT
Open from mid june to mid september.
On the foot of the Dibona, Martine Junique, ski teacher in l'Alpe d'Huez in winter, welcomes you. Her great grandfather was "père Gaspard" the first winner of the Meije.The hut has 92 places, solar showers, 40 winter places
Speciality : raclette
Panorama on Olan, les Rouies, Les Arias.
Refuge Tel: 04 76 79 08 32
Off Season Tel: 04 76 80 28 79
Carte IGN : IGN Top 25 - 3336 Est
On old maps, the summit is called "Aiguille du Pain de Sucre".
- First ascent : Angelo Dibona and Guido Mayer (normal route today) 27 june 1913.
- First difficult route : Jacques Boell + Alain Le Ray 1932
- S face direct : Madier route : Madier + Maurice Fourastier 1937
- W and E faces : Maurice Laloue 1939
- S and W face : Savoyards route : Bernard Wyns + Pierre Chapoutot 1967
- Militaires route : Jean-Claude Marmier + Jean-Pierre Peters 1968
Biography of Angelo Dibona (in german)
- Le Soreiller Hut
- La Meije
La Meije SP page
- Barre des Ecrins
Barre des Ecrins SP page
- Normal route
Normal route description on Camptocamp (in french)
- Coup de Bambou
Coup de Bambou route description on Camptocamp (in french)
- Madier route
Madier route description on Camptocamp (in french)
- Visite obligatoire
Visite obligatoire route description (in french)
- Voie des Savoyards
Voie des Savoyards route description (in french)
- Martine is on the rock
Martine is on the rock route description (in french)
- S face Combination
S face combination route description (in french)
- National Park of Ecrins
National Park of Ecrins home page
- Biography of Angelo Dibona (in german)
Biography of Angelo Dibona (in german)
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