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Aiguille Dibona
Mountain/Rock

Aiguille Dibona

 
Aiguille Dibona

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Isère, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 44.57450°N / 6.14340°E

Object Title: Aiguille Dibona

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Elevation: 10272 ft / 3131 m

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Feb 7, 2002 / Jul 9, 2016

Object ID: 150836

Hits: 28019 

Page Score: 89.77%  - 30 Votes 

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Overview

Geographical classification: Alps - Western Part > High Dauphiné > Aiguille Dibona


Aiguille Dibona 3130 m

Astonishing jewel and emblematic peak of the Oisan Massif to which it belongs, so much to become its very symbol, Aiguille Dibona is a breathtaking summit, undoubtedly one of the most coveted peaks of the French Alps and one of the most beautiful spires worldwide. Whatever is the route you have chosen, the climb on Aiguille Dibona is always a wonderful adventure, giving impressive views and unique sensations on perfect rock.
When you discover the needle, as you walk through the Soreiller gorges, you will always have the same emotion, endless gazing to this jewel of the nature.
No mountain is so extraordinary, no mountain has a so pure shape. It's difficult to imagine someone on the summit of such an arrow! Dibona symbolizes mountain climbing in a perfect way. Gaston Rebuffat himself wrote about Dibona: "This needle is a monument of stone given to mankind by the earth and the time, an extraordinary sculpture in the sky, the light and the silence of Oisans. The same achievements of the climbers on an other mountain would not be so marvellous. This needle was a question, climbing on it a response".

Aiguille Dibona - 3131mAiguille Dibona seen from the approach - photo Bald Eagle


Actually the Dibona is a granit blade placed side by side to the Aiguilles du Soreiller, and its spectacular profile seen from the hut path is misleading : from the side the slender decreases and the back is a (relative) easy flagstone.
Formerly known as Pain de Sucre du Soreiller, the spire was renamed in honour of the great alpine guide Angelo Dibona, who realized the first ascent of the peak with Guido Mayer on 27 June 1913. At the foot of the mountain is the Refuge du Soreiller, accessible in 3h30m from the village of Étages.

Aiguille Dibona
"Visite obligatoire", South face

Aiguille Dibona
Stunning Aiguille Dibona! - photo alpinpete

Aiguille Dibona
Visite obligatoire final ridge

Climbing History

Alpine Guide Angelo Dibona on Dolomites
Angelo Dibona


- First ascent : Angelo Dibona and Guido Mayer (normal route today) 27 june 1913.
- First difficult route : Jacques Boell and Alain Le Ray 1932
- S face direct : Madier route : Madier and Maurice Fourastier 1937
- W and E faces : Maurice Laloue 1939
- S and W face : Savoyards route : Bernard Wyns and Pierre Chapoutot 1967
- Militaires route : Jean-Claude Marmier and Jean-Pierre Peters 1968

Angelo Dibona - Planetmountain

Angelo Dibona

Getting There

The starting point to climb is Les Etages, a little hamlet located 3 km before La Bérarde in high Veneon, a valley of Oisans Massif, department Isère. The Veneon can be reached over Bourg d'Oisans.

Road access to Bourg d'Oisans

- Coming from France
Nearest airport : Lyon Satolas
Station : Grenoble
From Grenoble, N 85 (Napoleon street) to Vizille, then N 91 to Bourg d'Oisans.

- Coming from Italy
Nearest airport : Torino
From Torino, highway to Susa, Col de Mongenèvre, Briançon, Col du Lautaret, La Grave, Bourg d'Oisans. 4 km before Bourg d'Oisans, turn to the left direction Venosc and La Bérarde.

From Bourg d'Oisans by road: direction Briançon on RN 91, 4 km after Bourg d'Oisans turn to the right (Veneon Valley) - By bus: between Grenoble and La Bérarde, 3 buses per day in july and august. Rest of the year, only one bus on saturday on reservation.

Aiguille Dibona - Photo...
Another perspectve of Aiguille Dibona
Aiguille Dibona
View from Soreiller approach - photo om
Aiguille Centrale du Soreiller, Dibona
Aiguille Centrale du Soreiller and Dibona - photo om

Routes Overview

The starting point of all the routes is Refuge Soreiller 2730 m.
Access to the hut in 3 hours from Les Etages. Vertical gain 1200 m. The approach is relatively steep and this since the beginning.
Next day, wake up is often at 5 h 00 and start time 6 h 00. There is no glacier to cross.

Main routes

- North ridge Normal Route - PD

The normal route can be lengthened with Clochetons Gunneng traverse. Normal route has 3 sections :
- From the Soreiller Hut to the Pinnacles Breach (3048 m)
- Traverse under the Pinnacles to the Gunneng Breach (3080 m)
- N ridge climb

- Voie du Nain - AD, 5a (a move) 150 m. The route joins the Normal on last two pitch

Aiguille Dibona
Aiguille Dibona, near the summit - photo Bald Eagle


South Face routes

- Coup de Bambou - TD +

- Madier Route - TD See also SP route description

- Visite Obligatoire report route - TD+, 6a 350 m. See also SP route description: Visite obligatoire

- Voie des Savoyards - TD


East Face

- Martine is on the rock - TD

Aiguille Dibona
View from the path to Sorelleir - photo bruno.carbonne

Aiguille Dibona
On top of Dibona - photo bruno.carbonne




Descent: an easy but very exposed climb leads to a belay with an abseil anchor, about fifteen meters below the summit on the North ridge. Two 30m abseils lead fifty meters above a col separating Aiguille Dibona from Clochetons Gunneng. Downclimb easily to the col, then follow the path on debris and snow (many cairns) going back at the shelter with a ride in a semicircle.

Red Tape

No permits, no fees required. Maybe a parking fee is due in full season.
Aiguille Dibona is situated inside Ecrins National Park

Hut

 
Aiguille Dibona
The Dibona reaching into the sky as seen from the Soreiller Hut - ph. Bald Eagle
 
Aiguille Dibona
Panorama from Refuge du Soreiller


Refuge Le Soreiller


Situation: Haute Veneon, foot of Aiguille Dibona
Open: from mid june to mid september
Size: 92 places, 40 in the winter-shelter
Owner: Société des Touristes du Dauphiné
Guardian: Martine Turc
Getting There: from Les Etages
Hut's phone : 0033 04 76 79 08 32
Off Season phone: 0033 04 76 80 28 79

Martine Junique, ski teacher in l'Alpe d'Huez in winter, welcomes you. Her great grandfather was "père Gaspard" the first winner of the Meije.
Panorama on Olan, les Rouies, Les Arias.



Camping

- Les Fetoules *
Le Plan du Lac (between Vénosc and Saint Christophe en Oisans, 10 km from Les Etages) 35 pl
Brigitte & Bernard Teiller
Tél. 04 76 80 23 99

- Camping Municipal ***
La Bérarde ( 3 km after les Etages) 165 places
Tél. 04 76 79 20 45

When To Climb

Climb the South face from late spring until early fall.

Mountain Conditions and info

- Bureau des Guides et Accompagnateurs du Veneon La Bérarde - Meije - Ecrins
38520 St Christophe en Oisans
Summer Tél. 04 76 79 54 83 - Fax 04 76 79 23 12
Winter Tél. 04 76 80 52 72 - Fax 04 76 79 58 42

Meteo

Meteo France

Guidebooks and maps





    Guidebooks

    Selected Plaisir Climbs Of Switzerland 2012 by Sandro von Känel - Edition Filidor 2012 - This guidebook features 115 of the most beautiful Plaisir routes (multi-pitch 4b – 6c) from the French Dauphine in the Southwest to the Alpstein massif in the Northeast. Includes many photos and exacting topos by the author who has personally climbed every route in 2011

    “Oisans Noveau, Oisans Sauvage - Livre Est” by Jean Michel Cambon

    "Le Massif des Ecrins - les 100 plus belles" by Gaston Rebuffat
    (classic handbook)


    Carte IGN : IGN Top 25 - 3336 Est

    External Links