Welcome to SP!  -
Gino Soldà
Article

Gino Soldà

  Featured on the Front Page
Gino Soldà

Page Type: Article

Object Title: Gino Soldà

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Big Wall

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Feb 4, 2012 / Mar 6, 2015

Object ID: 774881

Hits: 4098 

Page Score: 92.04%  - 37 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Gino Soldà (1907-1989)



Gino Soldà was born on 1907, March 8th in Valdagno (Vicenza, Italy), a little town close to Recoaro Terme, at the foot of the prealpine group of Piccole Dolomiti (Little Dolomites), where he moved very young. This is an important detail because all his life was always in full accord with this mountain origin, notwithstanding in the golden years his passion for climbing and exploring kept him often far from his loved valley. Gino started to climb in 1923 and he is considered one of the best protagonists of the historic “Sixth Grade’s Golden Age”.






Gino Soldà at Little Dolomites
Gino Soldà on Little Dolomites

The alpinist

 
Gino on Cima Piccola di Lavaredo
On the top of Cima Piccola di Lavaredo
 
Gino climbing on Sisilla
Gino climbing on Sengio della Sisilla


Gino's first considerable climb occurred in 1924, when he realized alone at the age of seventeen the first winter ascent of Baffelan East face (Piccole Dolomiti).
His natural talent for climbing and his passion led him to make the mountain his reason for living. Still very young he become an Alpine Guide (1928) and took on the management of the shelter on Campogrosso Pass, in Little Dolomites, with his brother Aldo. Soon Gino reached the highest level in climbing, for those times the VI grade UIAA; he climbed numberless extreme routes in the Dolomites, also realizing several new ones and becoming an outstanding exponent of the European mountaineering during the decennium 1929 – 1939. His most important and world famous undertaking were Marmolada di Penia South-West face 1st ascent in 1936 with his pal Umberto Conforto and Sassolungo North face 1st ascent, climbed in the same year together with Franco Bertoldi: another challenging new route on the majestic 1100 m. high North face of Sassolungo. This route, defined by a British party which climbed it in 1975 as “no place for brass monkeys”, is a highly engaged climb inside a very severe environment and very rarely repeated.

Gino s masterpiece: the Soldà-Conforto route on Marmolada
Marmolada di Penia, Via Soldà- Conforto

The skier

Gino was also a great champion of ski: alpine ski, Nordic ski and ski-jump; in 1932 he participated to the Lake Placid Olympic Games, raising Italian team’s performance, not very good in that occasion because of some problems with ski wax. Once coming back in Italy he considered and studied the problem and in 1934 he established a factory for the production of ski-wax, which is still a renowned one under the management of his son Manlio.

The man, the legend

Gino Soldà was an artist of climbing, designing new elegant lines on unexplorated stunning faces. Surely his charm has a lot to do with his extraordinary enterprises in the Dolomites and his vocation to pioneer new peaks and climbing new routes, but also with his humanity, his loftiness of feelings and with the exceptional authoritativeness which people always attributed to him. Gino loved the mountain over every thing, but he had also a great consideration for the safety of climbers and mountaineers. For this reason since 1938 he dedicated himself to the Alpine Rescue and in 1965 he became the leader of “Recoaro-Valdagno” Alpine Rescue Station, founded by himself.

Gino Soldà as skier
Gino Soldà as skier
Gino Soldà with Franco Bertoldi
Gino with Franco Bertoldi after Sassolungo N Face
Sengio della Sisilla and Campogrosso Hut
Sengio della Sisilla and Rif. Campogrosso

During World War II he profuse its commitment in bringing people persecuted to safety in Switzerland and moreover he had an active role as a fighter in the War of Liberation. In the immediate post-war period Gino resumed his activities of Mountain Guide on Passo Sella, Dolomites. Recently his fellow-citizens has dedicated to Gino the mountaineering School founded between the sections of Club Alpino Italiano in Valdagno, Recoaro and Arzignano, which now is named “MOUNTAIN SCHOOL GINO SOLDA”’. Notwithstanding Gino was a great champion, he was free from every contest’s disposition and he also liked to climb together the other outstanding mountaineers of his age, like Giusto Gervasutti, Raffaele Carlesso and later Gaston Rebuffat. Until the vigour was with him he never stopped climbing and realized his last climb in 1978, at the age of seventhy-one, with his son Manlio and his grandchild Giorgia just on the Baffelan, the peak where he had started his striking career.

Gino Soldà with Sonia Livanos and Robert Gabriel
Gino Soldà with the French climbers Sonia Livanos and Robert Gabriel

The K2 adventure

 
The K2 from Concordia
The K2 from Concordia - Ph. Silvia Mazzani august 1992

Gino Soldà was selected in 1954 to participate to the K2 Italian Expedition and at the age of 47 he was its oldest member. He was selected not only because of his climbing qualities, but also for his authoritativeness, his good knowledge of English and his high talent to manage all the situations and mainly the relationship with Baltì porters, a very important side in that kind of expeditions. Gino climbed till Piramide Nera at 7100 m.

The friendship with Hans Kraus, a physician of John F. Kennedy

 
Gino with Hans Kraus in 1963
Gino with Hans Kraus in 1963

For a long time Gino climbed with Hans Kraus, a personal physician of John Fitzgerald Kennedy, who went in Italy for several years to climb with Gino, realizing together different first ascents; in 1963 Gino and Hans climbed another new route on the beautiful Torre dell’Emmele ESE face and Gino willed the route was dedicated to the President John F. Kennedy.

Chronology

1923 – Gino makes his first ascent on Guglia del Frate (Little Dolomites)
1924 – He climbs alone and in winter ascent the Baffelan East face
Since 1926 to 1933 he climbs several VI grade new routes on various peaks in the Little Dolomites, like Dito di Dio, Sisilla South face Direct, the first route of VI grade UIAA in Little Dolomites, Punta Sibele Direct Route with Raffaele Carlesso, Lontelovere, Baffelan East Face new route ecc.
1934 – Lonely ascent to Sengio della Sisilla; Ortles SW face 1st ascent with G. Pirovano; Dente del Sassolungo 1st ascent SE face with Franco Bertoldi
1935 – Several VI grade new routes in the Little Dolomites, as Dito di Dio NE face, with his brother Italo Soldà
1936Marmolada di Penia SW face 1st ascent with Umberto Conforto after three days of struggle; Sassolungo North face 1st ascent with Franco Bertoldi; Campanile di Wessely West Corner 1st ascent; I Tower of Sassopiatto 1st ascent; Cima Ovest di Lavaredo Cassin-Ratti route 1st italian repetition with Raffaele Carlesso

Gino Soldà with Raffaele Carlesso
Gino Soldà with Raffaele Carlesso
Marmolada di Penia SW face
The mighty SW Face of Marmolada di Penia


1937Torre Venezia Andrich-Faè and Tissi routes 1st repetitions; Torre Trieste Tissi Route 1st repetition; Torre di Babele South Ridge 1st ascent (Dolomites, Civetta Group)and Baffelan NE ridge 1st ascent with Italo Soldà
1938 – Gino participates to the rescue of his fellow-citizens Bortolo Sandri and Mario Menti fallen on Eigerwand.
1942Cima Grande di Lavaredo Comici - Dimai Route with Giusto Gervasutti; several first ascents in the Dolomites
1947 - Piz Ciavazes (Sella Group) new route with Guido Pagani
1949Torre Trieste Cassin Route 1st repetition with U. Pompanin; Cima Grande di Lavaredo Comici-Dimai with Gaston Rebuffat
1951 – Torre Gialla 1st ascent (Pale di S. Martino)

Gino and his sons
Gino and his sons
Gino Soldà and Umberto Conforto
Gino Soldà and Umberto Conforto after Marmolada first ascent


1952 – Several first ascents in the Dolomites (Moiazza and Cadini) with Hans Kraus
1953 – Sass Pordoi NW face 1st ascent; Sassolungo East face 1st ascent
1954K2 Italian Expedition
1956-1959 Some first ascents in Catinaccio and Little Dolomites
1959 - Moiazza Pala delle Masenade new route with Hans Kraus
1960Cima Ovest di Lavaredo Scoiattoli Route - During this extreme ascent the famous Bavarian director and climber Lothar Brandler took the film “Una cordata europea - Direttissima”, winner of “Mario Bello” prize at Trento Film Festival in the same year
1963 - “John Fitzgerald Kennedy” Route 1st ascent on E-S-E face of Torre dell’Emmele, Gino’s last VI grade climb with Hans Kraus
1974 – Baffelan NW ridge first ascent
1978Gino climbs until an old age and makes his last climb at the age of 71 on his loved Baffelan with his son Manlio and his grandchild Giorgia
1985 – Gino stops his activity of leader in “Recoaro-Valdagno” Alpine Rescue Station
1989 - Gino dies at the age of 82 in Recoaro. Amongst the many initiatives undertaken to honor his memory, a permanent exhibition at the Rifugio Campogrosso and the School of Mountain "Gino Soldà" (CAI Sez. Valdagno, Recoaro Terme e Arzignano).

Bibliography





"Dalle Piccole Dolomiti al K2" by Tommaso Magalotti

"Gino Soldà e il suo tempo" by Luca Valente

"Sulle vie di Gino - Nel centenario della nascita, seguendo le sue tracce... 1907-2007" by Luigi Centomo and Redento Peserico.
The book was published by the Italian Alpine Club Sections of Recoaro Terme and Valdagno in the hundredth anniversary of Gino's birth.

External Links

Le Stagioni di Gino Soldà

Scuola di Montagna "Gino Soldà"

K2 60 Anni fa

Gino Soldà "Paolo"

Images


Comments


[ Post a Comment ]
Viewing: 1-9 of 9    

mvsMissed opportunity!

mvs

Voted 10/10

Hi Mazzani, I was in Parma this cold weekend with my kids, looking for swimming pools and enotecas. This is a great article. I love the Dolomites and am very happy to learn about Solda. Your city is wonderful...I never before just ate hunks of Parmasian cheese on a plate, it was very good!
Posted Feb 6, 2012 4:03 am

Silvia MazzaniRe: Missed opportunity!

Silvia Mazzani

Hasn't voted

What a pity! But I'm happy you agree my town and our cheese...
I am also a Dolomites' great lover...and appreciate you SP pages and topos!
Cheers.
silvia mazzani
Posted Feb 6, 2012 12:23 pm

ericvolaGino a great friend

ericvola

Voted 10/10

Gino Soldà was a great friend of Georges and Sonia Livanos. They admired his climbing style. When they were in the Dolomites, particularly in the Civetta, often Gino would make a large detour to come and spend a few hours with them before going back to his work late the same evening. I have a nice photo of him with Sonia and Robert Gabriel (must be 1951 or 1952) that you can see among my pictures and that you are welcome to use.
Posted Feb 6, 2012 5:18 pm

Silvia MazzaniRe: Gino a great friend

Silvia Mazzani

Hasn't voted

Ciao Eric,
i didn't know Gino was a friend of Georges and Sonia...i'm a great fans of Georges and i've been numberless times in Dolomites and Calanques to climb their routes and Rebuffat's ones.
i've seen your fine picture of Gino with Sonia and Robert; i'd like to attach the picture to my Soldà page, but the SummitPost functions don't let me make that... Only you - if you want - are authorized to do it...
Thank you very much for you kind message!
Cheers.

silvia mazzani
Posted Feb 7, 2012 11:09 am

mvsRe: Gino a great friend

mvs

Voted 10/10

Excited to go to the Calanques one day and climb some of these classics!
Posted Feb 8, 2012 2:54 pm

NoonduelerGreat page!

Noondueler

Voted 10/10

Fine page to a very tough and resilient climber, a great man.
Thank you.
Posted Feb 12, 2012 10:39 pm

Silvia MazzaniRe: Great page!

Silvia Mazzani

Hasn't voted

Thank also to you for visiting and appreciating my page of mountaineering's history.
Cheers

silvia
Posted Feb 13, 2012 11:49 am

gabr1Thank you

gabr1

Voted 10/10

for this portrait of a great climber.
Gabriele
Posted Feb 13, 2012 8:17 am

Silvia MazzaniRe: Thank you

Silvia Mazzani

Hasn't voted

Thanks to you, Gabriele, for visiting...
Cheers

silvia
Posted Feb 13, 2012 11:51 am

Viewing: 1-9 of 9