OverviewHoher Angelus (Italian: L'Angelo Grande) is located in the Ortler-Cevedale Group in the Italian South Tyrol (Südtirol / Alto Adige). Though on the opposite (north) side of the Ortler in the Zayvalley. It lies at the east side of the Zayvalley, north of the more famous Vertainspitze and southeast of the Tschenglser Hochwand.
From the Düsseldorfer Hut the mountain has a large white snow covered summit. But beneath the snow there is a rocky face. Over this ridge (NW-ridge) goes the normal route, called the "Reinstadler route", wich is secured with some cables.
Getting ThereIn general:
The best outgoing point to Tschenglser Hochwand is a little town Sulden (Solda), which lies on the height of 1907 m. There is no train station, Sulden is best reachable by car (or bus):
1. From southern Germany: Munich – Garmisch – Landeck – Reschenpass, then in Italy road SS 40 via Mals, later SS 38 via Schlunders towards Passo dello Stlevio, before pass, in Gomagoi turn left towards Sulden.
2. From Austria: Innsbruck – Landeck - Reschenpass, in Italy road SS 40 via Mals, later SS 38 via Schlunders towards Passo dello Stlevio, before pass, in Gomagoi turn left towards Sulden.
3. From the Italian South Tyrol – Bolzano – by road SS38 Merano – Schlandres – towards Passo dello Stelvio, before pass, in Gomagoi turn left towards Sulden.
4. From Italian Lombardia: from Milan by SS36 towards Lake Como, later by SS 38 towards Sondrio, through Passo dello Stelvio, in Gomagoi turn right towards Sulden.
Thanks to Tomasz Jazwinski!
To the Düsseldorfer Hut:
There are two options
1.With the cable car (from Sulden to "Kanzel"). Then follow path no. 12, that leads to the Hut. About 1 - 1.5 hours from the "Kanzel Cable car station" to the Hut.
2.From Sulden follow the path beside the Zaybach/stream (way no. 5) all the way to the Hut. In warm weather, the Zaybach/stream contributes a comfortable temperture during the entire ascent. About 2 hours for the ascent from Sulden to the Hut.
RoutesNormal route from the Düsseldorfer Hut / "Reinstadler route":
Behind the hut in northeast direction following moraines and further up to the base of the rock face of the NW rigde (on wich the Reinstadler route goes). First of all it goes over steep rock terrain with sometimes cables that will help you to go up. After the steep rock section you'll have an impressive view to the summit with the ice-covered North face. Always the rock ridge following, you reach the summit after a view more demanding climbing passages (I-II).
Alpine climbing grade: WS-, I-II, 3 hours from the Düsseldorfer Hut.
* Old normal route, west ridge (not recommended because of rockfall). To the Angeluscharte (3337m) and then over the west ridge.
* North face, nice short steep ice climb. The face is only 200 meters high but has sections up to 80° steepness.
* Traverse of the Hoher Angelus and the Vertainspitze. Several routes possible!
Maps and GuidebooksMaps:
* Tabacco Ortlergebiet 1:25.000 Nr.08
* Kompass Vinschgau 1:50.000 Nr.52
* Gebiedsführer Rother Ortler Alpen, Peter Holl, ISBN 978-3-7633-1313-6
* Hochtouren Ostalpen, Edwin Schmitt and Wolfgang Pusch, ISBN 978-3-7633-3010-2
* Firn- und Eisklettern in den Ostalpen, Axel Jentzsch-Rabl and Andreas Jentzsch, ISBN: 3-9500920-0-5
External Links* Düsseldorfer Hut:
* Village Sulden:
* Avalance bulletin:
* Weather in South Tyrol:
* A very usefull guidebook for the north face:
* A beautifull guidebook for the normal route: