OverviewHoneymoon Gully is one of the many ice climbs that form up in the Chain Station Area between South Fork and Wolf Creek Pass Colorado. Combined with the other areas on both the east and west side of the pass, the Chain Station is a great area to visit for good ice. The photo below shows the lower tier of the Chain Station Area. Honeymoon Gully is the fain line between the two more prominent ice lines.
Getting ThereFrom the town of South Fork, Colorado, continue southwest on Highway 160 towards Wolf Creek Pass. Drive approximately 9.7 miles from the intersection of HWYs 160 and 149 (in South Fork) and look for a picnic area on the right side of the highway just after the chain up area for the pass. Park here and walk up the road a few yards. The climbs will be visible up and to the right. Find the trail leading from the road to the climbs, and about five to ten minutes of walking uphill will get you to the base of the climbs. At the base of the wall, continue uphill to the left to reach Honeymoon Gully.
Route DescriptionHoneymoon Gully is located in a shallow recess, so it's spared some of the sun exposure that the climbs on either side of it receive. The climb starts on thick ice, that gets a little thinner as you climb. The bottom is a little lower angle, and felt more solid. The crux was the last 1/4 of the climb where it got a little steeper. You can stem and rest off the rock wall to the right. The M4 rating applies early in the season when the ice is a lot thinner. There is a two bolt anchor at the top.
Essential GearThree to four ice screws (mid length) and something for the two bolt anchor at the top. If you plan on top roping any of the surrounding climbs, bring long runners.
External LinksChain Station Area overview on Mountain Project: Chain Station
Honeymoon Gully on Mountain Project: Honeymoon Gully