Welcome to SP!  -
King on the Throne, 5.9-5.12c
Mountain/Rock

King on the Throne, 5.9-5.12c

 
King on the Throne, 5.9-5.12c

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Idaho, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 42.08492°N / 113.72667°W

Object Title: King on the Throne, 5.9-5.12c

Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Jul 9, 2014 / Jul 9, 2014

Object ID: 904064

Hits: 207 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview/Approach

 
Double Cracks, 5.10a
Double Cracks, 5.10a

Double Cracks (5.10a) located on King on the Throne’s north face is one of the better 5.10- trad lines at the City of Rocks.   If you are doing Thin Slice and Animal Cracker, you need to be adding Double Cracks to the agenda.  Bingham’s guide talks about it once being considered “the standard for 5.10- crack (but) now it is considered stiff for the grade”. City of Rocks is considered a soft graded place to begin with mostly due to the majority of the climbers visiting from Salt Lake. But if you are a competent desert or California 5.9 trad climber, this route will be right up your alley. There is a good selection of relatively short 5.9’s on the east wall as well.

King on the Throne is directly across from the Parking Lot Rock road. There are camp sites located adjacent to the rock. In July it is a quiet locale mid-week. I imagine it is a zoo on popular weekends due to no approach and the selection of 5.9 routes.

Route Description(s)

 
Z-Cracks, 5.9
Jorge Urioste still belaying and climbing like a mad man at 77...
NORTH FACE
Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall

  • Short Route- 5.10R/

  • Fishbone- 5.12c*TR/

  • Double Cracks- 5.10a***/
  • The crux is the start up the twin finger cracks on good gear (cams or wires). Reach for finger locks via sloping feet. A small reachy hand jam shows up after a few meters. Maybe one chimney move or two, but for the most part, all positive, fun and safe climbing leads to an easy exit with a large feature to sling for a top rope for others or traverse right a few meters to rap hangers. Dow

    Descent
    Rap the chains out right of Double Cracks with a 60m rope. This rap anchor is not shown in Bingham’s guide book.

    Essential Gear
    This is a true north facing wall, thus a great summer climb. I led Double Cracks in July. Double Cracks takes wires or cams, single rack #0 to #3, doubles #.3 to #2. Take long runners if setting a top rope. 60m rope.

    EAST FACE
    Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall

  • Jug World- 5.9**/

  • Crack World- 5.9*/

  • Dying for Dyno’s- 5.12TR**/

  • Z-Cracks- 5.9**/
  • This is the obvious right facing corner crack in the middle of the wall. Jam up the corner using the multiple crisscrossing dikes for feet until a hand jam crack spits off left. This is the crux of the pitch. Jam that crack to gain height for your feet then back to the corner to reach a jug above the final closed portion to dyno up to the top. Set up top rope out right with a #3 and #4 or rap off the west side. Dow

  • Stan’s Roof- 5.10**/

  • Snakes and Ladders- 5.9**/

  • One Bolt- 5.10R/

  • Descent
    Either rap off the west or north side or down climb a rough chimney with a tree in it on the south side. It is not bad, just hard on you if you are shirtless.

    Essential Gear
    For Z-Cracks, take a single rack from #.3 to #4, double #2’s. Use the 3 and 4 for your top rope if you are doing that.   If not top roping the route, you can do without those two. True east facing, great afternoon shade in July. 60m rope for the west rap descent.

    Images

    Double Cracks, 5.10aZ-Cracks, 5.9Double Cracks, 5.10aDouble Cracks, 5.10aDouble Cracks, 5.10aDouble Cracks, 5.10aZ-Cracks, 5.9
    Z-Cracks, 5.9Z-Cracks, 5.9