Owl Rock, 5.7-5.11d

Overview/Approach

Owl Rock is a relatively obscure, albeit reached via easy access, formation located in front of the east face of the more popular Provo Wall on Lower Bread Loaves.  It is a difficult feature to even notice in the foreground of Provo.  Its best route, Owl Roof, 5.10d*, makes for a good combination to do with one of my favorite routes in the park, Double Cracks, 5.10-***, which is located on King on the Throne.  Owl Rock is located between King and Provo Wall.  It is a short walk from Double Cracks to the backside (west) of Owl Rock to locate Owl’s Roof.  None of the other routes I have climbed to date on Owl Rock left me with any tantalizing memories, but the roof was worthy.  Knee jamming up the short overhanging crack offered physical climbing at the grade.  

Park at a pullout in front of King on the Throne (across from the road leading to Parking Lot Rock).  Hike around the north side of King and cut up the hill circumventing the south end of Owl.  On the left side of the west facing wall, Owl’s Roof is rather obvious as a short overhanging off width crack starting about 60’ up.  If heading for Owl’s Roof, you pass under two bolted climbs that share the same fixed anchor:  Snack Break and Snack Break Direct.

Routes Listed Right to Left (on approach) as you face the West Facing Wall

Snack Break- 80’-5.10a**/ Furthest route to the right of the wall.  Starts just right of the roofs above.  Fun athletic start on jugs, but soft for the grade.  Can place small gear in horizontals and then clip bolts below the grade to the fixed anchor.  Dow

Snack Break Direct- 80’-5.8**/ Fully bolted route, but run out for someone at their limit.  Starts just to the left of Snack Break.  Name is misleading as it is an independent line to Snack Break vs a direct start.  Overall might be more entertaining than Snack Break but I cannot tell the difference between the two in terms of difficulty.  They are both closer to 5.8 than 5.10a.   Traverse right near the top to the shared fixed anchor.  Dow

Night Vision- 80’-5.10aR*/

Bubo Bulge- 90’-5.11d**/

Full Fledged- 60’-5.8*/ How the guide can give this contrived route a recommendation (one star) I have no idea.  It is located just to the right of Fledgling which is a decent 5.7 crack/flake climb. Run up either of two wider cracks to 5th class plated rock to the shared fixed anchor with Fledgling.  Dow

Fledgling- 60’-5.7*/ A worthy, safe and teachable lead for the budding trad leader.  An obvious flake corner with the crux through the first several meters and then easy crack to the fixed rap.  Trends right up the flake and cracks.  Guide mentions “awkward flake” but I do not get the awkward part.  It is straight forward and fun.  Takes all the gear you want to place.  Dow

Owl Roof- 90’-5.10d*/ An outstanding roof pull via a wide hands/small fist crack.  This crux section is the only climbing at the grade and is 60’ up the route.  Climb in from the right and meander up easy ground to a 5.8 hand crack to the right of the obvious roof crack.  Traverse left and below the overhanging roof crack.  The crux on lead is placing the gear such to not put the rope and gear in the way of a knee jam to overcome the overhang at the start.  Stem to left knee jam is the crux, then one more move to better hands:  the hands get wide and loose the first few moves up the crack (strenuous).  In quick order you get a right toe edge and the crack bites down to hands again.  Outstanding short section.  Then traverse left and back right up a short fact to the summit.  Gear belay/top rope which needs extension over the edge.  To descend, scramble down skiers left to the chains atop Fledgling.  Single rack to C4#3.  At the crux, place the #2 first and then the #3.   You are trying to protect a potential fall back onto a ledge below.  Intricate pro vs where you want your body parts.  Dow

Family Affair- 5.7*/ Top Rope Route