Kula (The
Watchtower)is highest summit of the smallest Central Dalmatian
mountain, namely Omiska Dinara. There are no striking or
dramatic, just several interest arousing moments regarding
Kula - it's position - it is last prominent point on
the southeastern end of the undulated mountain ridge, thus offering
extensive views - it's surroundings - whole
mountain is steep-sided and limited by Cetina river canyon on the north
and northwest (canyon crags are popular climbing site) while
south and southwest section of the mountain gradaually sinks into the
Adriatic sea. On the southeast end, Kula enjoys commanding view accross
long hogsback of mt. Rogoznica, untill distant mt. Biokovo
finally terminates the horison on that end. Routes:
Normal and common route is about 3 hours walk-up with moderate scramble
in the end. From town Omis at the westside foot of the
mountain, follow the paved road uphill to nearby Borak
village. Here, fork left following the waymark
uphill, on the righthand slope of Fortica summit. Fortica is
westernmost prominent summit on the Omiska Dinara main ridge. On
the top of it, there is large medieval fortress. Short 15 minute
deviation due left at the first trail junction, takes you there. The
fortress is kinda of panoramic point on its own, views
spanning from the mt Mosor
on the NW, accross the Cetina canyon, mt Mosnica,Brac channel
till the islands of Solta and Brac. From here, one may continue main
ridge traverse due east,
ascending over summits of Gavranovo gnijezdo (Raven's
nest), Imber and Strazine toward Kula (3-4 hours) or back to
the trail junction, from where path continues due east, contouring the
rocky east face of Omiska Dinara, first through the
pine woods, then accross the scree field, slightly ascending all
the time until it steepens up the wide rocky col
and catches with righthand edge of the thick pine forrest, untill it
reaches the small plateau with bivouac and water source. From
the plateau, goats path forks left uphill to the main ridge and finally
steepens up a bit more untill reaching the summit
of Kula, marked with small stone cairn and even smaller wodden cross
fixed on top of the cairn. Summit register is 4
yards to the right of the cairn. Return the same way or by ridge
traverse mentioned above. Some additional notes: -
ridge traverse is more panoramic and more exposed to the sun. Normal
route is less panoramic, but also less exposed to the sun. -
It is possible to descend down the north side of the mountain into
Cetina kanyon (steep) as well. But then you'll have to walk
miles back. - Current normal route runs tad beneath the old
one. Leftovers and marked waysigns from the old route are still visible,
but there is no point to try this one as it does not earn any time, and
is also subject to rockfalls (rockfalls on the Omiska Dinara
are not uncommon). - elevation gain equals total elevation,
thus 863m/2831f - don't forget sturdy boots
Getting there
Road access map
As
said, Kula is the highest summit of Omiska Dinara. And Omiska
Dinara is backyard mountain of town Omis, old piratic stronghold
in the middle Dalmatia, on the mouth of the river Cetina.
getting
there by train: Nearest train stop is Split, 30km or so to the NW up
the Dalmatian coast Train station is close to Split bus
terminal
by ferry: Nearest intl port is Split.
Regular ferry lines to/from Ancona/Italy, Igoumenitsa/Greece,
Rijeka/Croatia. Port is close to Split bus terminal.
by
coach: there is no bus terminal in Omis. However, all coach services
from Split toward east (direction Makarska, Imotski or Dubrovnik) and
vice versa, stop at Omis. Coaches and busses normally stop
near the city centre, next to the Omis harbour and Fire brigade station. They'll
also stop on demand, if you want to get off at the bridge at Cetina
river, for example, just ask the driver.. Split bus terminal is located
both close to the port and to the railway station. Split
bus terminal timetable in English Same Split-Omis
route is also served by suburban bus line no.60.
by
plain: nearest Airport is Split international timetable
in English. From the airport, direct coach service for Split
bus terminal where, again, switch to any coach departing due east
(Imotski/Makarska/Dubrovnik) or board on city bus no.60.
by
car: from North or NW (Austria, Slovenia, Hungary) A1 Zagreb-Split
motorway till Split, then catch D8 subadriatic arterial due east for
Dubrovnik. A1 suffers from traffic bottlenecks in high summer season,
some section of it may be closed in winter in case of strong bura wind.
Alternatively, you can drive down the old D1 via Plitvice lakes (no
road tolls, and usually no bottlenecks). Split-Omis drive may
take anywhere from under half an hour, up to 2 hours in high mid summer
season. Road
conditions info
Climbing info
Omis is one of the fastest developing climbing
areas on the
eastern Adriatic coast and inside Maritime Dinaric Alps in general. Rock
is limestone, around 80 sport climbing routes on half dozen
different crags, mixed single&multi pitch, bolts. Few
words about the crags;3 of them belong to the Omiska
Dinara mountain proper, Peovo, Planovo & Babina bara. Peovo
is located at the SW end of the mountain, just above the Omis oldtown
and behind the Mirabela fortress. Easy10 minute uphill srtroll from
the oldtown. Planovo
is located on the western end of Omiska Dinara, on the other side and
behind the tunnel through which road from Omis into the
Cetina
river canyon goes. Pass the tunnel and look to your
right. Car parking beneath the crag. You can walk from Omis as well, 15
minutes or so. Babina
bara
is located tad further due north from Planovo. Pass the 2nd
tunnel
on the same road, fork right following the road that leads toward
Sarina island and Radman's mills, and again look to your right.
Possible car parking. Stomorica
and Babjaca
are lateral ridges of mt. Mosnica, located right accross the
Omiska Dinara and mouth of Cetina into the Adriatic sea.. To get there,
cross the bridge accross Cetina due east (direction Split) into
Vukovarska street (new and less pretty part of Omis). Crags are easy to
spot from everywhere in Omis, beach included. Ilinac
is most remote out of all crags. It is the southernmost wall of mt.
Mosor. Again, cross the bridge into Vukovarska street, fork right, pass
aforementioned Babjaca and nearby camping site, then drive into the
Cetina canyon by the western bank, due north direction Zakucac hydro
power plant. As you drive, all 3 crags of Omiska Dinara
proper
will be on your right, accross the river. Park your car before the
power plant and proceed on foot due north, pass the bridge on your
right, from here another 10 minutes to the crag. Below is small and
very likely outdated routes summary for each crag, difficulty indicated
in French grades. For grade comparison, please, see
here
P e
o v o
Number of routes
Difficulty (French grades)
Shortest route lentgh
Longest route lentgh
9
6a+,6b,
6b+,6c,6c+,7a,7b+
14m/46f
24m/79f
P
l a n o v o
Number of routes
Difficulty (French grades)
Shortest route lentgh
Longest route lentgh
34
4a
to 7a+
10m/33f
40m/131f
B
a b i n a
b a r a
Number of routes
Difficulty (French grades)
Shortest route lentgh
Longest route lentgh
7
6b,6c,+,7a,7b,7c,8a
10m/33f
33m/108f
S
t o m o r
i c a
Number of routes
Difficulty (French grades)
Shortest route lentgh
Longest route lentgh
4
6a+,6b,6c
20m/66f
100m/328f
B
a b j a c a
Number of routes
Difficulty (French grades)
Shortest route lentgh
Longest route lentgh
11
4c
to 8a+
14m/46f
150m/492f
I
l i n a c
Number of routes
Difficulty (French grades)
Shortest route lentgh
Longest route lentgh
3
5c,6b,6b+
220m/722f
300m/984f
Relevant and
more up-to-date links: Omis climbing portal
(good info, but you may find youself fighting the layout of
that page) Details on Omis/Cetina canyon climbing area, at Dalmatia
climbing portal Pics: Some dudettes
about to climb Planovo, on top of Ilinac,
Rambo
route on Ilinac - photographer Vicenco Bartulin
Nearest hut
is Imber,
small wooden bivouac nailed to the nearby rock on the 20x20
metre size grassy plateau beneath the Strazina summit.
Unshielded, unlocked (bar only, please pull and close the door when you
leave) no beds or bunks. Basic facilities inside include
stove, first-aid kit, cooking facilities, 3 benches and one wooden
table. Water source, just to the left behind the
bivouac. From here, go left and uphill following
the marked goat trail for 25 minutes or so, then 10 minutes
of easy scramble and some rock-on-rock hopping to the Kula
summit
Red tape / Weather / Maps / Security
Detailed topographic map of the area
Red tape: -
no fees, no limitations whatsoever.
Weather: Kula,
Omiska Dinara and Omis climbing area have typical
mediterranean climate. Best times of the year both
for hiking or climbing are either spring or autumn. Winters are ok.
Summer is hot, still for a half-day hike not inadequate.
Climbing crags, those 3 inside Cetina canyon are more pleasant,
however canyon itself is sometimes quite windy ( sam goes for
Paklenica, for that metter). Crags to the left of the Cetina
river are exposed to the sun. Meteo stations closest to Kula
are in nearby towns of Split and Makarska. Split 7 day weather forecast
Maps & books: Supplied large scale maps should be more than
enough. There was never extra map/guide issued, covering Kula or Omiska
Dinara only. Book: Croatia Climbing
Guide, summer 2007. Earlier edition review over
at Summitpostgear Omis climbing area is featured
inside, from the 1st edition onwards
Security: Emergency
mountain rescue, dial 112
Videorama
Short early morning panorama clip taken from the Omis main beach. Shows Omiska Dinara south face, zooming toward the gap where normal path goes, then zooms out and pans left toward climbing crags, finally zooming in the Stomorica ridge.
