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La Varella

La Varella

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La Varella

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Dolomites / La Varella group, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.58510°N / 11.97110°E

Object Title: La Varella

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Via Ferrata, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 10022 ft / 3055 m


Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Oct 12, 2002 / Jan 24, 2016

Object ID: 151262

Hits: 9305 

Page Score: 90.81%  - 33 Votes 

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La Varella
Gabriele Roth - West face
Lavarella and Cunturines from Stern
Ejnar Fjeringstad - From the west
Lavarella and Cunturines Spitze
Petr Drápalík - Piz dles Cunturines and La Varella
La Varella (also written Lavarella) is the second highest mountain in a Dolomites group with the same name. The nearby standing Piz dles Cunturines is 9 meters higher. La Varella group is like a wreath, encircling a beautuful high plateau of Fanes. While from the Fanes side only the upper part of mountain wreath is solid steep rock, the picture from the west, from Val Badia is completely different. High vertical walls of Neuner, Zehner and Kreuzkofel are a true landmark of Dolomites country. The western side is also the most beautiful side of La Varella, especially when its walls turn red on a sunset light.

On La Varella, from the main crest towards the east branches a side crest which divides Klein Fanes and Gross Fanes. The main crest continues towards the south-east, where it ends on Piz dles Cunturines. On this crest, on the altitude of 2930 m (and peaks are only good 100 m higher) you can find a rare natural fenomenon. There's a true small lake - just a few meters from the south-west walls - in a rocky, landscape. It's a miracle how the water doesn't vanish in those rocks. Otherwise on the Fanes side lakes are numerous. Although these plateaus look like being a pure karst, there is due to dolomitic rock an abundance of water also on the surface.

The ascent on La Varella is not very difficult. The paths are marked. From the north an easy ferratta comes and towards the south the slopes are crumbly, not so steep and in winter also appropriate for tour skiing. But still, the peak is not so very often ascended as for example the most popular Dolomites peaks, which can be overcrowded.

Getting There

Show a bigger map
Evening on Klein Fanes....
Evening on Klein Fanes
The north-east approach for Fanes plateau (2040 m) starts in Rautal / Valle di Tamores, which is accessible by car from Val Badia. Near Rif. Pederu (Pederu Hut, 1548 m) there is a big parking place. From there you ascend first the Fanes Plateau and finally the summit. Because of it's distance this is a one day or one day and a half tour. In the routes section I recommend a bike-and-hike tour, although the benefit of a bike is only for a descent. The Fanes Plateau can also be reached from the east, from Cortina d'Ampezzo side.

From the north a marked ferratta reaches the peak from Forcella Medesc (2584m ), which can be reached from Klein Fanes or from the west (San Cassian or Alta Badia).

On Gross Fanes. August, 2000.
Gross Fanes
The other possibility is an approach from Gross Fanes (2150 m). This beautiful Alpine meadow can be reached from Rif. Pederu over Klein Fanes, from Cortina d'Ampezzo side through Valle di Fanes or from the south, from the road on Passo di Valparolla, over Col Locia (2069 m). From Gross Fanes a path turns towards the west, reaches the Cunturines Lake (in summer often dry) and finally the crest between La Varella and Piz dles Cunturines. From there you scramble to the summit.

You can orient with the Tabacco map (Carta topografica), No. 03 - Cortina d'Ampezzo and Ampezzo Dolomites, 1:25000.

Routes overview

Ascent time
 1.Rif Pederü, 1548 m, - Fanes, 2000 m - Forcella Medesc, 2533 m, - La Varella, 3055 m.
4 h
30 min
Easy walk up till Forcella Medesc, then a protected path (or easy ferratta).
 2.Val Felizón, 1300 m - Gran Fanes, 2102 m - Tadega pass, 2157 m - La Varella, 3055 m.
5 h
00 min
Easy walk till Tadega pass,then steep, medium hard hike up.
 3.La Crusc, 2045 m above Alta Badia (upper station of cable car) - Forcella Medesc, 2533 m, - La Varella, 3055 m.
4 h
00 min
Easy walk up till Forcella Medesc, then a protected path (or easy ferratta).
 4.St. Kassian, 1524 m - Forcella Medesc, 2533 m, - La Varella, 3055 m.
4 h
15 min
Easy walk up till Forcella Medesc, then a protected path (or easy ferratta).
 5.Capanna Alpina, 1720 m (near Valparolla pass) - Col de Locia, 2069 m - Tadega pass, 2157 m - La Varella, 3055 m.
5 h
00 min
Easy walk till Tadega pass, then steep, medium hard hike up.

Red Tape

La Varella
From Fanes plateau
Fanes high plateau
rgg - On the high plateau
No limitations.

On mountain maps you will see roads, but keep in mind that they are not open for public traffic. You must either walk or take a Jeep-Taxi. When we reached the peak we saw on the Fanes plateau mountain-bikers (we were also by bikes) so mountain biking is obviously allowed.

The whole area is a natural park, so many activities which could affect nature are not allowed.

When To Climb

Summer and Autumn (July to October) are the best for a hiking or climbing tour, spring (March to May) for a ski tour.

On the upper Fanes plateau....
In nice weather
Summit ridge
Petr Drápalík - In poor weather
Top of La Varella
mbmspa - The summit
On the summit of La Varella....
Summit view


Rif. Pederu (1548 m),

Rif. La Varella (2042 m),

Rif. Fanes (2060 m), open from December 26th to end of April and from June to October. Tel.: 04 74 / 50 10 97.

Cap. Alpina (1726 m).

I'm almost sure that camping is forbidden in wilderness (because of a natural park). In valleys there are official camps, but anyway you'll need a car (or bike) to get closer to the mountain.

The Fanes' Saga

From the area of Fanes a beautiful Ladinian saga originates. As all Ladinian traditions, also The Fanes' Saga was preserved only by oral transmission until the end of the XIX century, when it was written down by Karl Felix Wolff. Visit the fine Adriano Vanin's site and read the legend about Moltina, Dolasilla and Ladinian kings.

The Fanes' Saga

Additions and Corrections

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mbmspaUntitled Comment


Hasn't voted

I went there in August 2004 and I have found no Via Ferrata to get to the summit. From Forc. Medesc to the top, the way is easy and it is well marked. Anyway be careful because if you slip it can be very dangerous in certain places.
Posted Sep 6, 2004 7:50 am
Vid PogachnikUntitled Comment

Vid Pogachnik

Hasn't voted

Perhaps you're right. The route is not hard. But as far as I remember, there are steel pegs and artificial means (ropes?) - so, it depends on where you start calling a route ferrata.

Thanks for your post!
Posted Sep 6, 2004 10:34 am

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