OverviewJust to the north of La Varella a long ridge with very steep wall makes a quarter of a circle clockwise to arrive to Sass da les Diisc (Zehner - 3026m) and ends with Sass da les Nü (Neuner - 2968m)
It belongs to the northern part (Cunturines) of Fanes group
This ridge is known as SASS DLA CRUSC (Sasso della Croce) and has some summits that can be seen as distinguished only from West side :
Piz dl' Ciaval (Monte Cavallo - 2907m) - Pilastro Centrale - Piz dl' Pilato (2825m) - Piz dl' Zübr (Piz del Mastello - 2718m) - Pergo dla Forcela (2658m).
From East the summits can be easily reached through a wide basin (Pices Fanès) from Rifugio Fanes (o Rifugio La Varella)
The West side is a big vertical wall drop up to 650 m and has many of the most difficult climbing routes of the area.
Getting ThereAccessing for hiking is easy and comfortable from Rif. Fanes (2050m) that can be reached in many ways, the shortest is coming Val Badia and crossing San Vigilio di Marebbe and Tamores till Rifugio Pederu 1548m). From here on foot, mountain bike or taxi service till Fanes.
Rifugio Fanes can be reached also, with a wonderful (but not short) walk, starting from Armentarola (on the road from San Cassiano to Passo di Val Parola and Passo Falzarego) and crossing Col dla Locia (between Cunturines and Cima del Lago)
For Western wall climbs starting point is the Abbazia dla S.Crusc that can be reached from Pedraces on foot or by a chair-lift.
no easy routes : all routes are strong and some may require a bivouac, rock not always good, require very high skill !!!!
here some basic infos of the choice - this wall is a graduate exam for rock climbers
(all the routes of the "strongest part" are more difficult than the Cassin to West Lavaredo)
the strongest part :
Piz dl' Ciaval
west wall (Livanos-Gabriel) - 500m - ED
west wall (Messner) - 600m - ED
Piz dl' Pilato
west wall (Kofler-Gabloner) - 600m - TD sup
west dihedral (Mayerl) - 600m - ED sup
west wall (Messner) the big wall - 600m - ED
the "normal" part
Piz dl' Zübr
central dihedral (Corradini-Frisch) - 300m - TD (the easiest, almost a walk :)
left dihedral (Frisch-Renzel) - 300m - TD sup (amusing, the finest)
Pergo dla Forcela
west dihedral (Steger) - 250m - TD (one pitch 6°)
a lazy :) climber posted this suggestions about Livanos route (but useful for all routes in the "hard section") :
A good deal if someone intend to climb this route.
In the lower part the rock is often rotten and the climb quite dangerous,
in the upper part instead, with the exception of the first 15 mt the rock is good or excellent
and there's a beautiful and aerial climb.
So, in order to avoid the lower part there re mainly 3 ways.
1) climb the first part of Mayerl route, until the band, follow the band on the left
(caution, it's good but sometimes quite narrow) till the start of the route.
2) reach the summit plateau by the ferrata, follow the track on the edge of the wall to that broad channel south of the Mittelpfeiler
(Messner route) where runs the gabloner route.
There are 2 50mt rappels to the band at half wall.
3) climb the short and not-so-hard Messner's "Grosse Mauer" route to the plateau, then as n. 2
These 3 solutions are good for the Mittelpfeiler too, which lower part (formerly of the gabloner) isn't so fine to climb.
The upper part of the Livanos Route is well equipped, a normal load of pitons, chocks and friends is enough.
A little more caution on the last pitch, a wonderful, compact slab on 5,5+ on which the only piton is bad...and near the end.
In free climb, max 6b.