Overview
Peak 9820
For Getting There/ Routes
Head west for 4.5 miles to the Stanley Lake turnoff. Turn left (west) and proceed 3.6 miles on a paved road to the trailhead just west of the lake.
Saddle up and start hiking. The first 1.1 miles are very flat. At the intersection for Ladyface Falls and the Alpine Way trail, turn left and follow the Alpine way trail as it crosses the meadow and starts to climb.
After 3.78 miles and 1300’ gain, the trail reaches a saddle. Leave the trail and head up the ridge. As the ridge peters out, follow the drainage to Lake 8609. From the saddle, it's 1.2 miles and another 900’ gain.
Once at the lake, look for a saddle to the south of the lake. Climb to the saddle in 0.5 miles with 640’ gain.
From the saddle, turn east and follow the ridge to the summit in 0.4 miles and 560’ gain. Summary: Class 2, 7.5 miles, 3400' gain
Snow climb
Follow the standard route, but when you get to the big waterfall, turn left and climb steep snow heading south. After a short section, you'll be able to see the entire gully. Pick your poison: head up and scale the cornices on the left, or go right and do some dirt cramponing up the ridge. Don't try this one if it isn't full snow, but also be aware that it slides.
Iron Creek approachHead west for 2 miles to the Iron Creek turnoff. Turn left (west) and proceed 3.5 miles on a rough dirt road (passable to any car) to the trailhead.
Saddle up and start hiking. After 1.2 miles and 300' gain you will see the Alpine Way trail branching on the left. Stay to the right and head for the intersection to Sawtooth Lake in another 0.6 miles. At the intersection go right and follow the Alpine Way trail north.
After 1.6 miles and 700’ gain (followed by a 600' drop), the trail reaches a creek crossing. Leave the trail and head up the drainage. Climb to a saddle at the top of this drainage in 1.2 miles and 2000' of gain.
From the saddle, turn east and follow the ridge to the summit in 0.4 miles and 560’ gain.
Summary: Class 2, 5.5 miles, 3700' gain
Red Tape
Peak
No further permits required.
Snow CountryDue to the large amount of snowfall in this area, both access roads are closed for the winter and into the spring. The Stanley Lake road is gated and locked. The Iron Creek road is not gated, but a "Road Closed" sign is posted to keep non-residents off the soft and muddy road. The road to the residences leaves the Iron Creek road after about a mile (and the remainder of the road is not plowed anyway), so during the winter season it is recommended to park at the highway and walk this mile.
Check ahead for road conditions by calling the Stanley ranger district of the Forest Service (see Links below).
For additional information on this climb and other peaks in the area, please see Tom Lopez's excellent book,
Idaho: A Climbing Guide.