Mt. Regan is probably the most photographed peak in the Sawtooth Range. It's striking north face sits at the south end of the very scenic Sawtooth Lake. The easiest way up the peak involves a classic Class 4 scramble over an exposed ledge. Regan sits just 1 mile southwest of Alpine Peak and offers exceptional views of the entire range, particularly the Warbonnet area (Monte Verita Ridge). A well maintained trail winds it's way across the east side of Sawtooth Lake and around the east and south sides of Mt. Regan, making the area a popular summer season destination hike.

Here are the routes on Mt. Regan:

1) Southeast Ridge (Class 3-4) - Most popular approach- See Routes for more detail.

2) Lower East Face (II 5.5) - At the south end of Sawtooth Lake near Lake 8489 contour around the northeast base of Mt. Regan and find the snow couloir. The first part of the couloir is the hardest part and the nature of the couloir changes near the top to snow and broken ledges. Exit the couloir onto the Southeast Ridge Route. The couloir climb is 3-5 pitches.

3) North Ridge (II 5.3)- At the south end of Sawtooth Lake ascend the slopes toward a prominent notch that separates the mountain from the ridge. Rappel down into the notch and then climb the notch wall to the summit

4) Northwest Ridge (Class 5)- From Point 9399, west of Sawtooth Lake or East of Trail Lakes follow a complex and tower studded ridge toward the summit with several rappels and easy 5th class moves to get up and over the rock towers.

Mount Regan was first climbed in 1934 by Robert and Miriam Underhill, guided by local rancher, butcher, dairyman, miner and mail carrier Dave Williams.

Getting There

Road Approach

2 miles northwest of Stanley, Idaho go west onto Iron Creek Road for 3.8 miles until you reach the Iron Creek campground and trailhead.

Hiking Approach

Follow the well marked and maintained trail from Iron Creek Trailhead for 5.5 miles until you reach Sawtooth Lake. Along the way you will pass Alpine Lake at 3.3 miles.

Other approaches options come from the GrandJean Trailhead via Trail Lakes or North Fork of Baron Creek. These approaches are longer, but less crowded.

Red Tape

There are no hiking, backpacking or parking regulations or fees. Backcountry Campfires are prohibited in several areas including Sawtooth Lake. Drive in campsites are fee based.

October 2010: Summit Register was missing since July (replaced by me). Same for Alpine Peak. The summit register bandit strikes again!

When To Climb

Standard climbing season June through October Conditions may vary greatly. There are reports of winter visits to the Sawtooth Lake area via ski or snow-shoe.

Nearby Stanley, Idaho Climate Data:

	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec	Annual
Average Max. Temperature (F)	27.0	33.7	42.5	50.3	59.9	68.4	78.7	78.4	68.6	56.6	38.1	26.0	52.4
Average Min. Temperature (F)	-0.5	0.3	9.7	20.3	28.3	33.9	36.0	34.0	27.2	20.6	12.0	-0.8	18.4
Average Total Precipitation (in.)	1.64	1.33	1.02	1.02	1.17	1.16	0.59	0.59	0.78	0.92	1.46	1.55	13.24
Average Total SnowFall (in.)	16.9	13.2	10.2	3.4	0.9	0.2	0.0	0.0	0.4	1.7	10.4	14.6	71.9
Average Snow Depth (in.)	18	20	15	6	0	0	0	0	0	0	2	8	6

Camping

There are many drive-in camp sites at the Iron Creek Trailhead
Backcountry camping is easy to find at Alpine Lake or Trail Lakes (Sawtooth Lake has limited spots)