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Mt. Sevy
Mountain/Rock

Mt. Sevy

 
Mt. Sevy

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Idaho, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 44.02460°N / 114.97328°W

Object Title: Mt. Sevy

County: Custer

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling

Season: Summer, Fall

Elevation: 10480 ft / 3194 m

 

Page By: SawtoothSean

Created/Edited: Sep 23, 2009 / Sep 24, 2009

Object ID: 556550

Hits: 4155 

Page Score: 88.61%  - 27 Votes 

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Idaho 21 is a regional route between Stanley and the Treasure Valley  
Sevy Summit Block
 


As the 10th highest mountain in the Sawtooths, Sevy is the highest technical summit in the range.  Located on the main Sawtooth Crest, the peak intersects with a perpendicular ridge that extends east to it's terminus as the Finger of Fate.  The airy summit ridge overlooks nearly all it's surrounding extreme terrain on solid slabs of granite. Still, with all these accolades the peak sees few visitors. Before 2009, the only known ascents included the Tom Lopez party and the Mark Weber party. A ruined log in a PVC summit tube was found near the summit most recently, and it was updated.

 

Sevy Summit Closeup
 

 

 

 

Mt. Sevy is easily overlooked by arguably the greatest rock formation in the range, The Finger of Fate.  Climbers visiting from other areas will climb the Finger, and rightfully so. After the Finger of Fate in this area,  The Arrowhead is the next logical choice. On a bonus day after climbing the Finger, both The Arrowhead and Mt. Sevy (given their proximity), could easily be done in one day and would provide a great and diverse exploration of the Sawtooth's technical climbing realm. The Arrowhead provides one of the tougher (5.9) free climbs up the west face and crack system with a spectacular fin summit that is often saddled at the finish. The formation also provides a whistling sound from afar with the slightest wind. Mt. Sevy offers a bit more scrambling over mostly stable Class 3 terrain, and then an airy but easy 5.4 finish on it's rocky fang of a summit makes for quite an adventure.

 

Arrowhead Lake
 

 

 

 

Routes

 

Arrowhead- East Face
 

South Ridge (5.4):

 

From the Hell Roaring Trailhead, follow the climbers trail as if you were heading to the Finger of Fate. Continue on the north side of Hell Roaring Lake to Clarice Lake, where most of the Finger of Fate climbers set up camp. From here, continue to follow the climbers trail southeast of the Finger and pass just south of the Finger formation. The slopes look steep, but they are quite manageable and stable by Sawtooth standards. Find a ramp angling southwest, then angle back toward the northwest until you are just south of the east ridge of Sevy, and just east of the highest (Arrowhead) Lake. In this area you will have a spectacular view of the Arrowhead. Scramble back slightly to the northeast and up the south slopes of Sevy's east ridge. Stay about 100 feet under the ridge and scramble west underneath the east ridge. The scrambling is easy Class 3 through this area. You'll bypass a perpendicular rock ridge running up the south slopes and soon you will arrive at the main Sawtooth Crest that blocks any further travel. From here, scramble up a prominent gully and on your right hand side you'll see a false summit that actually provides a good view of the true summit.  Climb Class 4 slopes to a point on the ridge where many may rope up. 

 

 

 

The South summit ridge climbs through a notch out on scantily protectable slabs. The true summit is a smooth block that sits just west of the intersection of the Sawtooth Crest and the east ridge of Sevy. To reach the summit, climb south and just under it, then make an awkward turn around a corner until you are on the west facing slab of the summit block that has nice steps. Still, the last few moves are unprotectable, but a standard belay from a notch will protect from a long fall. Down climb back to the notch and a standard rappel will take you either down the gully (south), or rappel to the col between the summit and the false summit described earlier.

 

 

 

A very good bonus scramble from Sevy is to follow the ridge east to it's terminus at the South Finger of Fate Point 9775, where you will have spectacular views of the Finger of Fate. If your lucky enough to see climbers and have afternoon light, be sure to bring your camera for this vantage point. From here, down climb to the lake just southwest of Point 9775 and find the climber's trail that will retrace your steps.

 

 

 

5.2 miles and 3308 feet gain (one way) 

Round Trip Time Estimate:  5-7 hours (without excursion)

 

 

 

Other Routes- Little is known about other routes, but the North West Ridge appears to be a spectacular and interesting line

 

Sawtooth Crest with Mountain Goat
 
 

 

Birthday Cake, Sentry, Coffin
 

 

Finger of Fate
 

 

Goat Viewing on Sevy
 

 

Lake 9450 with the Arrowhead and Dave s Peak in the distance
 

Images