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Monte Cavallo
Mountain/Rock

Monte Cavallo

 
Monte Cavallo

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Lucca, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 44.10904°N / 10.21798°E

Object Title: Monte Cavallo

County: Tuscany

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mixed

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 6217 ft / 1895 m

 

Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: Aug 23, 2013 / Aug 23, 2013

Object ID: 863067

Hits: 904 

Page Score: 85.87%  - 21 Votes 

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Overview

Monte Cavallo m. 1895

Alpi Apuane, as their name says, are comparable to the Alps rather than the neighbouring Northern Apennines, notwithstanding their distance from the alpine chain and their moderate height (the highest peak doesn’t join the 2000 meters of altitude). This fact is due to their steep and impressive faces, together with their geological origins. Monte Cavallo is a complex peak lying on the main apuan crest, between the Saddle of Cavallo and the Focolaccia Col. It’s shaped by a very long ridge NW-SE oriented, showing four fore-summits reaching approximately the same altitude; the highest point is lying in the middle of this ridge. Two others ridges are starting from the ends of the main one. Monte Cavallo has singular and symmetric shapes and it’s one of the best known and more frequently climbed peak in Alpi Apuane, in every season of the year; the beautiful and wide NE face and the SE one are often visited by the rock-climbers during spring, summer and fall, in reason of its interesting routes, while the Cambron Gully offers a very nice ice-climb during the winter months.


 
Focolaccia white marble quarry from the summit
Summit view over the marble quarry on Focolaccia Col
 
Monte Cavallo summit ridge in winter
Monte Cavallo in winter time

Getting There

Road access

This sector of Alpi Apuane can be reached both from the Lunigiana region and Garfagnana region.

- Coming from A15 Motorway (Lunigiana)

From the A15 Parma – La Spezia Motorway take the Aulla exit. From here follow the SS 63 towards Cerreto Pass, then after Rometta turn to right, following SS 445 towards Fivizzano, Casola in Lunigiana, Minucciano, Gramolazzo and Gorfigliano. At the end of Gorfigliano take the road towards Vagli, then turn to right following the road to the Campaccio quarries and leave the car before entering the tunnel, after which the road becomes dirty.

 
Vagli Lake and the village of Vagli
Lago di Vagli (Garfagnana)





- Coming from Garfagnana Valley

Getting to Castelnuovo Garfagnana take the road to Piazza al Serchio and Gorfigliano, then proceed as before.

Walking approach

From the tunnel either by foot or by a 4x4 follow the dirty road towards Focolaccia Col until you arrive underneath the NE face.

Routes overview

 
Gli smemorati upper traverse
Gli Smemorati upper slabs
 
Canale Cambron, the exit on the summit ridge
Cambron Gully: the exit to the summit ridge
 
The white slabs of Arte e Maniera (Art and Style)
The white slabs on the lower part of Arte e Maniera



NORTH EAST FACE ROUTES (French scale)

North-East Face counts some pleasant and interesting climbing routes, developing inside a singular mountain environment. From left to right:

- Gli Smemorati 6a, 250 m.
- Via dei Cherubini 5b, 220 m.
- Lovable 6a, 120 m.
- Arte e Maniera 6a, 200 m.
- Occhio alla curva 6a, 160 m.












SOUTH-EAST FACE ROUTES (French scale)

On the narrow and shorter SE face run six routes. From left to right:

- Paradiso Perduto 6a, 120 m.
- Fog 6b+, 120 m.
- Via dell’Architetto 6b, 90 m.
- Fessura Centrale 4b, 100 m.
- Via di Centro 4b, 100 m.
- East Ridge 3a, 160 m.

WINTER ASCENTS

- Canale Cambron



Red Tape

Summit fogs
 



No particular restrictions in climbing and hiking, even if all Alpi Apuane range is situated inside a natural park – Alpi Apuane Natural Park – established in 1985 to protected the milieu and mostly to try restricting the age-old activity of marble’s quarrying, which has marked this magnificent but frail environment.



When to Climb

Rock climbs: from May to October

Ice gullies: January and February

Where to stay

Huts and Bivouacs

- Rifugio Guido Donegani m. 1150 at Orto di Donna
- Rifugio Aronte m.

Meteo

 
Monte Cavallo map
 



Meteo Toscana


Guidebooks and maps

“Alpi Apuane” by E. Montagna – A. Nerli – A. Sabbadini - CAI - TCI Guide dei Monti d’Italia

“Toscana e Isola d’Elba – Arrampicate moderne e sportive” by Mauro Franceschini e Fabrizio Recchia – Edizioni Versante Sud

Images