Welcome to SP!  -
Pizzo d'Uccello
Mountain/Rock

Pizzo d'Uccello

 
Pizzo d\'Uccello

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Northern Apuanian Alps, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 44.13775°N / 10.18433°E

Object Title: Pizzo d'Uccello

County: Toscana, Tuscany

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Ice Climbing, Scrambling, Via Ferrata

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 5843 ft / 1781 m

 

Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: Nov 27, 2011 / May 24, 2014

Object ID: 762486

Hits: 2844 

Page Score: 86.37%  - 22 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview

Pizzo d'Uccello mt. 1781




Heidi Superstar - South Face


Mainly due to their steep shapes and their impressive faces, together with their geological origins, the Apuanian Alps, notwithstanding their not very important height – the range’s highest peak is taller than 2000 meters – are comparable to the Alps rather than the neighbouring Northern Apennines. Pizzo d’Uccello is a mighty limestone peak situated in the Northern part of the range and, of course, it's the most famous mountain in the whole area, so that local climbers simply call it “the Pizzo”. This fact has far-off origins from the reputation of its North face with its 700 mt. high trad routes and recently also from the glamour of the magnificent limestone on its South side. Moreover, having a very interesting Normal route and a “via ferrata”, the peak is also very popular amongst the scramblers: a complete and interesting mountain, offering different climbing experiences, both to trad climbers and modern ones and even to advanced hiker. Situated along Apuanian Alps main divide, Pizzo d’Uccello shows the shape of a three-faced pyramid with as many ridges: NE ridge, named Capradossa Ridge, SSE Ridge, along which the Normal route rises to the summit, and the longest ONO Ridge – about 2,5 kms.- named Nattapiana Ridge.

Getting There

 
The pictoresque village of Vinca with Pizzo d Uccello SW side
Pizzo d'Uccello overlooks the pictoresque village of Vinca
 
Pizzo d Uccello southern approach
Southern approach from Vinca


COMMON ROAD ACCESS TO ALL CLIMBING AREAS



Follow the A15 Motorway (Parma – La Spezia), exit Aulla. From here follow the SS 63 towards Cerreto Pass, then Rometta turn to right after Rometta, following SS 445 towards Gassano, Monzone and Equi Terme. Once taken SS 445, there are three differents ways to approach the various climbing areas:





- Access to North Face and Via Ferrata Tordini-Galligani

From the SS 445 you must reach the small village of Ugliancaldo mt. 743. From the main road there are different ways to get to Ugliancaldo; the quickly road starts from Monzone Stazione. From Ugliancaldo follow a quarry’s road rising along upper Solco di Equi and leading towards the face.



- Access to South Face

From the SS 445, at Gragnola, take on the right-hand side the road to Monzone, Equi Terme and Vinca. Just before getting to Equi Terme, take on the right-hand side the road to Vinca Valley (brown road-signes), reaching Monzone and the picturesque village of Vinca mt. 808, situated below Pizzo d’Uccello SW side (30 minutes from the motorway exit).



- Access to Orto di Donna and Normal Route

From SS 445 at Gragnola follow the main road towards Casola in Lunigiana and Minucciano mt. 697; from here the road enters a tunnel. From the tunnel exit follow at once an ancient quarry’s road on the right-hand side, entering Orto di Donna and leading to Guido Donegani Hut mt. 1150.

History



Pizzo d'Uccello majestic North face in early summer evening light


While the authors of Pizzo d’Uccello absolute first ascent are uncertain, the North Face was already well-known in 1883 to the British explorer Francis Fox Tuckett, but it expected the first climbing attempt until 1922. The first route realized on the N face was “Genovesi Route” by a Genoese team in 1927. A most direct route on the face central part was realized in 1940 by N. Oppio and S. Colnaghi from Milan, covering a route previously but only partially climbed from Ceragioli brothers: “Oppio Route” is today the classic and finest one of the face.


 A light cloud on Pizzo d Uccello North Face
A light cloud covers Pizzo d'Uccello North Face

Routes overview

 
Climbing a beautiful slab on Pizzo d Uccello South Face
A slab on Heidi Superstar
 
A traverse on Pizzo d Uccello South Face
A traverse on Pizzo d'Uccello South Face






























Two faces, two different climbing’s ways…



Pizzo d’Uccello North face, the major one of Apuanian Alps, is a very steep and impressive 700 mts. high and 2000 mts. large face, with several trad climbing routes “Dolomites style”. Situated in a shady and secluded milieu, some of these routes can give to climbers a challenging experience, also due to the rock’s quality, not at all perfect. On the contrary South Face, even if less impressive and steep, shows an excellent and compact limestone: in the latest years we have seen to multiply several climbing routes rising along magnificent slabs – water’s drops style – and beautiful cracks.


NORTH FACE ROUTES


North Face can enumerate at least 13 trad climbing routes, most of which have only an historic interest. The classic and normally frequented routes are:
- Oppio-Colnaghi Route UIAA V-, 600 mt., dev. 850 mt.
- Biagi-Nerli-Zucconi or Pisani Direct Route UIAA V+, 600 mt.

For "Oppio-Colnaghi" report:
SASS BALOSS

For "Biagi-Nerli" report:
SASS BALOSS





SOUTH FACE ROUTES


LEFT BUTTRESS

- Profumo di antico **** F6b (F5a obbl.), 250 mt.
- Bau Bau Boby ** F5c (F5a obbl.), 130 mt.
- Dove osano i peteri *** F5c (F5b obbl.), 210 mt.
- Francesca**** F6b+ (F6a obbl.), 110 mt.
- Accademiche idiozie**** F6b (F5c obbl.), 200 mt.
- Gonne con le donne*** F5c (F5a obbl.), 200 mt. A classic route between the modern ones

CENTRAL BUTTRESS

- Heidy**** F6b (F5c obbl.), 350 mt. South Face’s great classic route
- Quando calienta il sol là nela placa**** F6c/A0 (F6a obbl.), 200 mt.
- Dinko*** F5c (F5b obbl.), 550 mt.
- Il bacio della donna ragno F6a, 70 mt.
- Heidy Superstar**** F6b (F6a obbl.), 550 mt. A beautiful long route



RIGHT BUTTRESS

- Diedro Sud** F5a, 200 mt. An old classic and pleasant route
- Tiziana** F5a, 150 mt.
- Mistral**** F6b (F6a obbl.), 150 mt.

Scrambling

From Pizzo d Uccello summit sunset towards Tyrrenian Sea
Sunset towards Tyrrenian Sea from Pizzo d'Uccello summit


Pizzo d’Uccello SSE Ridge Normal Route, an easy and pleasant scramble

Once at Guido Donegani Hut take the path to Foce di Giovo (Giovo Saddle) mt. 1500. From here take on the right-hand side a path going up and down and crossing some little beechs’ woods and leading to a little saddle named Giovetto mt. 1497, situated below the peak’s upper pyramid. Rise along a slope, then leave on your right-hand side the trail to Capradossa Terrace and finally follow some pleasant and easy rocks leading to the S summit and to the main summit (1,15 hours from Giovo Saddle).
Descent: along the same route.

Via Ferrata Tordini – Galligani to Foce Siggioli

From upper Solco d’Equi a trail leads to a 400 mts. high “via ferrata”, equipped in 1975 with iron’s ropes and cutted steps, rising along Capradossa buttress with exciting views on Pizzo d’Uccello North face and leading nearby Foce Siggioli mt. 1390, a saddle along Capradossa Ridge. From here a good trail leads to Giovetto Saddle, from where it’s possible to get on Pizzo d’Uccello summit along Normal Route.

Huts

Guido Donegani Hut at Orto di Donna mt.1150
RIFUGIO DONEGANI

Red Tape

 
Apuanian Alps  white marble processing
Quarry's old machinery
 
An early spring s view on Apuane range seen from Pizzo d Uccello summit
An early Spring view of Apuanian Alps seen from Pizzo d'Uccello summit
 
Apuanian Alps  white marble processing
Apuanian Alps white marble processing


No particular restrictions in climbing and hiking, even if all Apuanian Alps range is situated inside a natural park – "Alpi Apuane Natural Park" – established in 1985 to protected the milieu and mostly to try restricting the age-old activity of marble’s quarrying, which has irreparably marked this magnificent but frail environment.

When to climb

North Face: from May to October
South face: Spring and Fall; very hot in summer

Meteo

METEO TOSCANA

External Links

ARRAMPICARE IN TOSCANA

Guidebooks

“Alpi Apuane” by E. Montagna – A. Nerli – A. Sabbadini CAI - TCI Guide dei Monti d’Italia

“Toscana e Isola d’Elba – Arrampicate moderne e sportive” by Mauro Franceschini e Fabrizio Recchia – Edizioni Versante Sud

Images