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Mount Henry Macleod

 
Mount Henry Macleod

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Alberta, Canada, North America

Lat/Lon: 52.52842°N / 117.35131°W

Object Title: Mount Henry Macleod

Activities: Mountaineering

Season: Summer

Elevation: 10876 ft / 3315 m

 

Page By: Old School WB

Created/Edited: Aug 16, 2011 / Aug 17, 2011

Object ID: 738020

Hits: 1614 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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Overview

Mt. Henry Macleod is an impressive mountain with a steep wall facing Maligne Lake and Coronet Creek in southern Jasper National Park. Similar to Mt. Brazeau and Valad Peak, the West Face rises dramatically from Coronet Creek to the summit plateau, which is draped in the glacial mass of the Brazeau Icefield. The North and South Ridges, topped with the Brazeau Icefield, are low angle and gentle, but are riddled with a minefield of hidden crevasses. The summit reaches a notable 3315m (10,876 ft.), based on the most recent National Topographic Map 1996 series.

Henry Macleod was a Canadian Pacific Railway surveyor who first saw Maligne Lake in 1875. Arthur Coleman named the mountain after him in 1902. First ascended in 1923 by A. Carpe, W.D. Harris and Howard Palmer.

Jasper National Park is the largest of Canada's Rocky Mountain Parks and part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This spectacular park protects 11,228 square kilometres (4,335 square miles) of broad valleys, rugged mountains, glaciers, forests and alpine environments. There are more than 1,200 kilometres (745 miles) of hiking trails within Jasper and 16 of the 54 11,000’ers.

Getting There

Jasper joins Banff National Park to the south via the Icefields Parkway. This parkway offers scenic driving, and more importantly, access to some of the best alpine and waterfall ice climbing in the world. The parking areas for all routes is at the Poboktan Creek trailhead, approximately 165 km north of the Trans Canada Highway or 70 km south the town of Jasper.

Head up the trail, at about 7 km up, head North-East into a major side valley, no official trail. Once near end of valley, head up steep scree slopes and in between cliff bands to north. Great bivy site at edge of icefield at NTS UTM grid reference 777179 (lat. 52.5103, long. -117.4749).


Bridge out
Bridge out at Trailhead

Red Tape

A permit or fee is not required to climb in Jasper National Park. A voluntary safety registration system is available for climbers in the rocky mountain national parks. It is necessary to register in person at the park information centres or warden offices during business hours. On completion of the excursion, the party must notify the park by telephone or by returning the registration form.

Up to date information about climbing and mountaineering in Jasper National Park available at:

Jasper NP Mountaineering


Camping and Bivouacs

Climbers are permitted to bivouac on long routes or otherwise where necessary to safely complete a climb. Some restrictions apply. A backcountry use permit is required, contact any Jasper National Park visitor centre, where you may obtain the permit.

Great bivy location for accessing the Brazeau Icefield, in the summer months, is located at NTS UTM grid reference 777179 (lat. 52.5103, long. -117.4749).

 
Brazeau Icefield
Typical travel on Brazeau Icefield


When to Climb

Mt. Henry Macleod, and the adjoining Mount Brazeau and Valad Peak, offer classic mountaineering objectives in summer or winter. As a ski mountaineering expedition, generally late winter or early spring will often the best snow conditions and stability. For summer mountaineering, typically mid June to the end of September offers the best conditions.

Mount Coronet from Mt. Henry Macleod
Mt. Coronet from Mt. Henry Macleod

Route Descriptions

Only one distinct climbing route has been documented on Mt. Henry Macleod. The relatively easy North and South Ridges are simple glacier travel routes from the Brazeau Icefield; these slopes provide an easy ascent with proper snow and weather conditions.

- North or South Ridge, Alpine I

First ascended in 1923 by A. Carpe, W.D. Harris and Howard Palmer. An easy ascent usually from a high camp on the edge of the Brazeau Icefield.

 
Mt. Warren (l) and Mt. Brazeau (r)
Mt. Warren and Mt. Brazeau from Mt. Henry Macleod



Descend the same route, often combined with a traverse of Mount Brazeau and Valad Peak. Be prepared for the many crevasses and whiteout conditions; whiteouts are common atop this glacial plateau.


Reference

Bill Corbett’s book, The 11,000ers of the Canadian Rockies, provides a comprehensive climber’s guide and history to the 54 11,000-foot peaks in the Canadian Rockies. Since a traverse of Mt. Brazeau, to Valad Peak to Mt. Henry Macleod is classic objective, beta for all three peaks is detailed in this guide.

11,000ers of the Canadian Rockies

Images

Mt. Brazeau first lightBivy site Lower South Glacier Mount BrazeauApproach to BrazeauBrazeau IcefieldMaligne Lake from Mt. Brazeau
Nice walk inMt. Warren (l) and Mt. Brazeau (r) Low down on the Brazeau IcefieldSummit party on Valad PeakMount Coronet from Mt. Henry MacleodMount Henry Macleod