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Traverse of Mt. Henry Macleod, Alpine II

Traverse of Mt. Henry Macleod, Alpine II

Traverse of Mt. Henry Macleod, Alpine II

Page Type: Route

Location: Alberta, Canada, North America

Lat/Lon: 52.52911°N / 117.35038°W

Object Title: Traverse of Mt. Henry Macleod, Alpine II

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Summer

Time Required: One to two days

Difficulty: Alpine II (for traverse)

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Old School WB

Created/Edited: Aug 16, 2011 / Aug 4, 2013

Object ID: 738117

Hits: 1934 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Mt. Henry Macleod is an impressive mountain with a steep wall facing Maligne Lake and Coronet Creek in southern Jasper National Park. Similar to Mt. Brazeau and Valad Peak, the West Face rises dramatically from Coronet Creek to the summit plateau, which is draped in the glacial mass of the Brazeau Icefield. The North and South Ridges, topped with the Brazeau Icefield, are low angle and gentle, but are riddled with a minefield of hidden crevasses. The summit reaches a notable 3315m (10,876 ft.), based on the most recent National Topographic Map 1996 series.

Getting There

Jasper joins Banff National Park to the south via the Icefields Parkway. This parkway offers scenic driving, and more importantly, access to some of the best alpine and waterfall ice climbing in the world. The parking areas for all routes is at the Poboktan Creek trailhead, approximately 165 km north of the Trans Canada Highway or 70 km south the town of Jasper.

Climbers are permitted to bivouac on long routes or otherwise where necessary to safely complete a climb. Some restrictions apply. A backcountry use permit is required, contact any Jasper National Park visitor centre, where you may obtain the permit.

Great bivy location for accessing the Brazeau Icefield, in the summer months, is located at NTS UTM grid reference 777179 (lat. 52.5103, long. -117.4749).

Bivy site
Bivy site, great views

Route Description

Lower South Glacier

Mt. Henry Macleod, and the adjoining Mount Brazeau and Valad Peak, offer classic mountaineering objectives in summer or winter. As a ski mountaineering expedition, generally late winter or early spring will often the best snow conditions and stability. For summer mountaineering, typically mid June to the end of September offers the best conditions.

- North or South Ridge, Alpine I

First ascended in 1923 by A. Carpe, W.D. Harris and Howard Palmer. An easy ascent usually from a high camp on the edge of the Brazeau Icefield.

Low down on the Brazeau Icefield
Low down on Brazeau Icefield

From the recommended bivy site, gain South-West toe of the Brazeau Icefield. This section has many crevasses; probing and careful route selection is required. Once on the flat glacier, I recommend heading to Mt. Brazeau first, and then traverse back towards camp via Valad, then Henry Macleod; this way you bag the primary summit first.

After ascending Valad Peak, descend South Ridge to North Ridge of Mt. Henry Macleod. Easy snow climb to summit.

Mount Coronet from Mt. Henry Macleod
Mount Coronet from summit of Mt. Henry Macleod

Descend South Ridge to Brazeau Icefield and head back to bivy camp.

Mt. Warren (l) and Mt. Brazeau (r)
Mt. Warren and Mt. Brazeau from summit of Henry Macleod

Essential Gear

Climbing boots, crampons and helmet (mainly for South Glacier section on Brazeau). Standard glacier travel and crevasse rescue gear; depending on snow coverage, pickets or ice screws, pulleys, locking carabiners and carabiners, slings and prussiks. Probe is useful for detecting crevasses.

If ski or winter mountaineering avalanche rescue gear is essential; beacon, probe and shovel.

High altitude camping gear for bivy camp. We had overnight temperatures of -12 C (10 F) in late June. Rain/snow storm shell, down jacket, waterproof climbing (ski) boots and good camp food.

External Links

Bill Corbett’s book, The 11,000ers of the Canadian Rockies, provides a comprehensive climber’s guide and history to the 54 11,000-foot peaks in the Canadian Rockies. Since a traverse of Mt. Brazeau, to Valad Peak to Mt. Henry Macleod is classic objective, beta for all three peaks is detailed in this guide.

11,000ers of the Canadian Rockies


Bivy site Lower South Glacier Mount BrazeauApproach to BrazeauBrazeau IcefieldMaligne Lake from Mt. Brazeau Mt. Warren (l) and Mt. Brazeau (r)
Low down on the Brazeau IcefieldMount Coronet from Mt. Henry MacleodMount Henry Macleod