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Peralba
Mountain/Rock
Peralba 

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Alpi Carniche (Karnische Alpen), Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.62660°N / 12.71580°E

Elevation: 8838 ft / 2694 m

 

Page By: marco979

Created/Edited: May 3, 2001 / Jan 30, 2008

Object ID: 150377

Hits: 3940 

Page Score: 89.27% - 18 Votes 

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Overview



Peralba is a nice mountain in wich rises the river "Piave", theatre of an important battle during the first war in 1917 between Austrian and Italian soldiers (along the path you would see many weapons about that period).

The normal route is easy, with some passage on the rocks to lead the ridge before to arrive on the peak. During the summer many people climb it, special in August. From the peak during the days of clear sky it's possible to admire a wonderful view of Austrian and Italian alps!


Getting There

You can arrive to Sappada from the Veneto side: take the Venice-Belluno highway and then go towards Pieve di Cadore.

If you come from Friuli leave the Udine-Tarvisio highway at the Carnia exit and drive towards Villa Santina and Forni Avoltri (45 km. ).

Those who travel by train stop at Calalzo, end of the line from Venice and Padova or Carnia on the Udine Tarvisio line. Train stations are about 40 kilometers from Sappada, to which they connect by frequent bus lines that meet the main trains.

The closest airports are the international airports in Venice (180 km) and Trieste (140 km).

From Cima Sappada (a small village near Sappada, not distant from Austria) by car or by foot through a path that follows river Piave, to the sources of river "Piave" (30 minutes by car, 3 hours walking). When you arrive to the parking (1800 meters), left the car and by foot turn right.

You see above you refuge Ref. Calvi (2167 meters) from the parking: go there on a easy path in wich it's possible to go also by jeep (only for the local people that have the authorization) and then to "Sesis" mountain pass (2300 meters - near the border with Austria). When you reach the pass, turn left on a path with red signals (scramble, some passage of first level). Through a part of easy passages on a rocks, you go up until the ridge; when you are on the ridge, turn right and walk until the peak (not exposed-2694 meters - three hours and half from the parking).

Route Overview*

There are a lot of routes onto Peralba. Here is a overview of the classic ones. You can find more details in the (German) book by P.Holl, Karnischer Hauptkamm, Rother Verlag, ISBN: 3-7633-1254-4.
  • Normal Route (north-east)
    Rated: I
    Duration: 3h from Hochweißsteinhaus, 2 1/2h from Rif Calvi
  • East Face
    Rated: IV
    First Climbed: date unknown (de Infanti, Pachner)
    Length: 200m
  • East Face / "New Route"
    Rated: IV
    First climbed: 1975 (Corrado, Cekada)
    Length: 150m
  • East-South-East Face
    Rated: III
    First Climbed: 1963 (Dalla Porta Xidias, Slama)
    Length: 170m
  • South-East Face Chimney
    Rated: III+
    First Climbed: 1919 (Samassa, Romanin)
    Length: 150m
  • South-East Face "Via Pietro Sartor"
    Rated: Ferrata
    Duration: 1 - 1 1/2 h
  • South-East Face, left route
    Rated: V-
    First Climbed: 1933 (Pachner)
    Length: 150m
  • South-Eastern Pillar
    Rated: V+, A2
    First Climbed: 1973 (de Infanti, de Infanti, de Infanti, Morassi, Prodorutti)
    Length: 350m
  • Torre dei Fiori, South-East Face
    Rated: IV-
    First Climbed: 1972 (de Infanti, Bizarro, Gonano, dalla Maria)
    Length: 300m
  • South Pillar
    Rated: V+
    First Climbed: 1934 (Pachner, Pachner)
    Length: 550m
  • South Face
    Rated: V
    First Climbed: 1947 (Stabile, Floreanini)
    Length: 550m
  • Torre Peralba, East Face
    Rated: V+
    First Climbed: 1978 (Rainis, Querini)
    Length: 300m
  • Torre Peralba, South Face
    Rated: V+, A2
    First Climbed: 1970 (Ursella, Negro, de Infanti)
    Length: 280m
  • Torre Peralba, South Pillar
    Rated: V+
    First Climbed: 1983 (Mazzilis et al.)
  • Torre Peralba, South Chimneys
    Rated: V+
    First Climbed: 1981 (Mazzilis, Cargnelutti)
    Length: 300m
  • South-West Face
    Rated: VI
    First Climbed: 1982 (Mazzilis, Simonetti)
    Length: 340m
  • Torre SAF, East Face
    Rated: V
    First Climbed: 1982 (Mazzilis, Moro)
    Length: 235m
  • Torre SAF, South Face
    Rated: VI, A2
    First Climbed: 1971 (de Infanti, Rupil)
    Length: 450m
  • Torre SAF, South-West Face and South Pillar
    Rated: V
    First Climbed: date unknown (Mazzilis, Mainardis)
    Length: 450m
  • Torre SAF, South-West Pillar
    Rated: IV+
    First Climbed: 1978 (Barbarossa, Cergol)
    Length: 300m
  • Torre Gennaro, South Face
    Rated: VI, A3
    First Climbed: 1971 (de Infanti, Grasinich)
    Length: 450m
  • Torre Genaro, South-West Pillar
    Rated: IV
    First Climbed: 1979 (Linussio, Mazzilis)
    Length: 360m)
  • Torre Gennaro, South-West Face
    Rated: IV+
    First Climbed: 1976 (Piller, Piller, de Podesta, Kratter)
  • Torre Gennaro, North Face
    Rated: IV-
    First Climbed: 1978 (Dabernig, Wiegele, Kaiser)
    Length: 200m
  • South-West Gully
    Rated: II
    First Climbed: 1925 (Pittoni, Oberthaler)
    Length: 700m
  • Torre Ravascletto, South Face
    Rated: VI
    First Climbed: 1970 (de Infanti, della Pietra)
    Length: 300m
  • South Face of the Western Ridge
    Rated: IV
    First Climbed: 1973 (de Infanti, de Grignis, dalla Marta, di Ronco)
    Length: 200m
  • Torre Ursella, South-West Face
    Rated: VI-
    First Climbed: 1970 (de Infanti, Negro)
    Length: 300m
  • Torre Tolmezzo, South Face
    Rated: VI
    First Climbed: 1972 (de Infanti, de Infanti)
    Length: 400m
  • West Ridge
    Rated: I
    First touristic climb: 1907 (Patera, Stabentheiner)
    Length: 800m
  • North-West Face of the West Ridge
    Rated: VI
    First Climbed: 1982 (Mazzilis, Moro)
    Length: 250m
  • North-West Face of the West Ridge´, Mazzilis - Kratter Route
    Rated: V+
    First Climbed: 1982 (Mazzilis, Kratter)
    Length: 400m
  • North-West Pillar
    Rated: VI-
    First Climbed: 1984 (Ortner, Stemberger)
    Length: 500m
  • Western North Face
    Rated: V-
    First Climbed: 1978 (Stemberger, Suppersberger)
    Length: 500m
  • North Face, "Carmen"
    Rated: VI
    First Climbed: 1985 (Ortner, Ponholzer)
    Length: 800m
  • North Face Pillar, "Nabucco ka Tatschi"
    Rated: VI
    First Climbed: 1985 (Ortner, Ponholzer)
    Length: 800m
  • Direct North Face
    Rated: V+
    First Climbed: (Ortner, Leitner)
    Length: 700m
  • North Face, Streitmann Route
    Rated: V+
    First Climbed: 1934 (Noe, Streitmann)
    Length: 700m
  • North Face, Hans-Oberluggauer-Memorial-Route
    Rated: V+
    First Climbed: 1984 (Riegler, Ortner)
    Length: 700m
  • North Pillar
    Rated: IV+
    First Climbed: 1976 (Holl, Kriedl)
    Length: 600m

* for this section thanks to Gangolf Haub!

Camping and Accomodations

There is a camping in Sappada, near the river, open during the summer. The best place where to sleep are in Cima Sappada (4 km from Sappada to East through the route that bring to Friuli) and are HOTEL SORGENTI DEL PIAVE (cheap and very confortable, look all the informations on the web site) and HOTEL BELLAVISTA (really nice and panoramic).

The best period to climb this mountain is during the months of June, July, August (crowed) and September. Looking for reach the peak during an other period is dangerous for the ice that you can find among the rocks. If arrive a storm or bad visibility for the clouds during your ascent, leave the mountain immediately and reach Ref. Calvi.

Books and Maps*

Maps
  • Lienzer Dolomiten / Lesachtal
    1:50000
    Kompass Map WK47
    Kompass Verlag
    ISBN: 3-85491-053-3
  • Gailtaler Alpen / Karnische Alpen / Oberdrautal
    1:50000
    Kompass Map WK60
    Kompass Verlag
    ISBN: 3-85491-067-3
  • Tabacco Maps, all 1:25000
    001 - SAPPADA-S.STEFANO-FORNI AVOLTRI
    009 - ALPI CARNICHE / CARNIA CENTRALE

Books

German Books
  • Hiking and Trecking
    • Osttirol Süd
      W. Mair
      Rother Verlag
      ISBN: 3-7633-4132-3
      Good descriptions with maps covering: Defregger Berge, Villgrater Berge,
      Carnic Alps, Lienz Dolomites
    • Kärnten
      G. Lehofer
      Rother Verlag
      ISBN: 3-7633-4187-0
      Good descriptions with maps covering: Carnic Alps, Gailtal Alps,
      Karawanke, Julian Alps (parts)
    • Gailtal – Lesachtal – Karnischer Höhenweg
      Kompass Wanderbuch 982
      Kompass Verlag
      ISBN: 3-85491-500-4
      Good Descriptions with maps and elevation profiles covering: Carnic
      Alps, Southern Lienz Dolomites, Gailtal Alps

  • Climbing
    • Karnischer Hauptkamm
      Alpenvereinsführer
      P. Holl
      Rother Verlag
      ISBN: 3-7633-1254-4
      Excellent overall Climbing Guide through the Carnic Alps Main Ridge.
Italian Books
  • ALPI CARNICHE E DOLOMITI FRIULANE
    ISBN: 88-86928-37-8
    Euro 16,53
    to buy it
  • ALPI CARNICHE, vol. I - II
    A. De Rovere, M. Di Gallo;
    Guida dei monti d'Italia CAI-TCI; 1988


* for this section thanks to Gangolf!

External Links

Images

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