Overview
Mount Yoran is a large monolith sticking out of Diamond Peak's northern base. It is high, and it's in a beautiful area south of the Willamette Pass. Mount Yoran is a volcano that has been extinct for hundreds of thousands of years. The peak has since been eroded, and only the volcanic neck is present now, as well as talus and scree below the monolith. It is a technical climb, but it is loose rock in several areas, especially on the east. The north face has solid rock for the most part.
The monolith is mostly 5.2-5.4 technical rock, but there are several places that are 5.9. The climb is, in most places, a technical rock ascent.
There is one walk-up route (it is still very steep). See the "Photos" page for a photo with the walk-up route shown.--(Walk-up route info courtesy of "zzril").
Getting There
Turn off Highway 58 (Willamette Pass highway) at a sign for the Hills Creek Reservoir (1.3 miles east of Oakridge). After half a mile on Road 21, continue straight at an intersection onto Road 23. Follow this route for 15 miles of pavement and 4 miles of gravel to a pass beside Hemlock Butte. Turn left at a hiker-symbol sign immediately beyond the pass, drive 200 yards on a spur road, and park at the Vivian Lake Trailhead. Follow the trail about a mile to Notch Lake. Keep on going. At a trail junction about 0.2 mile, turn right on the Mount Yoran Trail (the trail does not ascend Mount Yoran). Follow the trail about 3 miles to Divide Lake ( a good spot to camp, as long as you stay at least 300 feet away from the lake or the nearby streams). Hike cross-country to the northeast of the lake to Mount Yoran's base.
In the winter, the best access to the mountain is to park at Salt Creek Falls. Navigate up the prominent drainage. Follow the RR tracks past a rock cut and then head up when it seems kind of marshy. I would recommend staying climber's left of the gully. This is about a 12 mi. R/T on snowshoes. Definitely bring ice axe, helmet, crampons. The North side has the potential to generate some SICK ice routes in the right conditions.--(Winter information courtesy of "zzril").
Red Tape
Since Mount Yoran is in the Diamond Peak Wilderness, a wilderness permit is needed to legally stay overnight in the area. Permits are free and are availible at wilderness trailheads. Remember to stay at least 300 feet away from lakes or streams. Fires are not allowed in summer or fall, as the fire danger is always considered "Extreme" from late May till the first snows of the fall season.
When To Climb
Mount Yoran is almost always climbed in the summer. It is feasible to climb in the winter, but only if you are an experienced snow and rock climber and if you can suffer extremely cold temperatures.
Camping
Camping in the Diamond Peak Wilderness is acceptable, but you must have a wilderness permit to stay overnight. Wilderness permits are free and are availible at trailheads. Stay at least 300 feet away from lakes or streams. Fires are not allowed in summer and fall.
Mountain Conditions
You can check out the Rigdon Ranger Station in Oakridge for conditions in the Diamond Peak Wilderness. The phone # for the Rigdon Ranger Station is (541) 782-2283.
Other
Check out the neat Hemlock Butte lookout near the Vivian Lake Trailhead. The views extend to Mount Yoran and Diamond Peak.
Images
|
