Idaho 21 is a regional route between Stanley and the Treasure Valley
As the 10th highest mountain in the Sawtooths, Sevy is the highest technical
summit in the range. Located on the main Sawtooth Crest, the peak
intersects with a perpendicular ridge that extends east to it's terminus as the
Finger of Fate. The airy summit ridge overlooks nearly all it's
surrounding extreme terrain on solid slabs of granite. Still, with all these
accolades the peak sees few visitors. Before 2009, the only known ascents
included the Tom Lopez party and the Mark Weber party. A ruined log in a PVC
summit tube was found near the summit most recently, and it was updated.
Mt. Sevy is easily overlooked by arguably the greatest rock formation in the
range, The
Finger of Fate. Climbers visiting from other areas will climb the
Finger, and rightfully so. After the Finger of Fate in this area,
The
Arrowhead is the next logical choice. On a bonus day after climbing the
Finger, both The Arrowhead and Mt. Sevy (given their proximity), could easily be
done in one day and would provide a great and diverse exploration of the
Sawtooth's technical climbing realm. The Arrowhead provides one of the tougher
(5.9) free climbs up the west face and crack system with a spectacular fin
summit that is often saddled at the finish. The formation also provides a whistling sound from
afar with the slightest wind. Mt. Sevy offers a bit more scrambling over
mostly stable Class 3 terrain, and then an airy but easy 5.4 finish on it's rocky
fang of a summit makes for quite an adventure.
Routes
South Ridge (5.4):
From the Hell
Roaring Trailhead, follow the climbers trail as if you were heading to the
Finger of Fate. Continue on the north side of Hell Roaring Lake to Clarice Lake,
where most of the Finger of Fate climbers set up camp. From here, continue to
follow the climbers trail southeast of the Finger and pass just south of the
Finger formation. The slopes look steep, but they are quite manageable and
stable by Sawtooth standards. Find a ramp angling southwest, then angle back
toward the northwest until you are just south of the east ridge of Sevy, and
just east of the highest (Arrowhead) Lake. In this area you will have a
spectacular view of the
Arrowhead. Scramble back slightly to the northeast and up the south slopes
of Sevy's east ridge. Stay about 100 feet under the ridge and scramble west
underneath the east ridge. The scrambling is easy Class 3 through this area.
You'll bypass a perpendicular rock ridge running up the south slopes and soon
you will arrive at the main Sawtooth Crest that blocks any further travel. From
here, scramble up a prominent gully and on your right hand side you'll see a
false summit that actually provides a good view of the true summit. Climb
Class 4 slopes to a point on the ridge where many may rope up.
The South summit ridge climbs through a notch out
on scantily protectable slabs. The true summit is a smooth block that sits just
west of the intersection of the Sawtooth Crest and the east ridge of Sevy. To
reach the summit, climb south and just under it, then make an awkward turn
around a corner until you are on the west facing slab of the summit block that
has nice steps. Still, the last few moves are unprotectable, but a standard
belay from a notch will protect from a long fall. Down climb back to the notch
and a standard rappel will take you either down the gully (south), or rappel to
the col between the summit and the false summit described earlier.
A very good bonus scramble from Sevy is to follow the ridge east to it's
terminus at the South Finger of Fate Point 9775, where you will have spectacular
views of the Finger of Fate. If your lucky enough to see climbers and have
afternoon light, be sure to bring your camera for this vantage point. From here,
down climb to the lake just southwest of Point 9775 and find the climber's trail
that will retrace your steps.
5.2 miles and 3308 feet
gain (one way)
Round Trip Time Estimate: 5-7
hours (without
excursion)
Other Routes- Little is known about other routes, but the
North West Ridge appears to be a
spectacular
and interesting line.
