Idaho 21 is a regional route between Stanley and the Treasure Valley
The 9th tallest peak in the Sawtooth is a challenging Class 4 scramble in a
rugged and highly scenic section of the range. Situated on the main
Sawtooth Crest just 0.60 miles north of the
regal Mt. Cramer, Dave's Peak has tremendous views of the Cramer Lakes,
Elk Peak,
and
Imogene Peak. As a scramble, this peak provides some good Class 2-3
scrambling, along with a steep Class 4 finish to obtain the summit ridge. As
typical for this area, loose rock adds to the rugged and steepness for a
delightfully stressful scramble. If viewed from the valley south of the
Finger of Fate, Dave's Peak shows it's false summit which is easily mistaken
for the true highpoint. The true high point is further west on the knife-edged
ridge and reaching the true summit takes some route finding and determination.
Along the summit ridge is a giant hole in a rock that is clearly visible from
Mt. Sevy and provides a unique window to the Cramer Lakes.
The Sawtooth Crest from Mt. Cramer north to
Decker
Peak has some of the most interesting rock towers and formations in the
Sawtooths that's only surpassed by the
Monte Verita Ridge and possibly the
Heyburn Complex of rock towers. This area contains a good collection of the
second tier climbing routes of the Sawtooths that are rarely done, but still
have solid rock. Many of these towers no doubt have single digit ascent totals.
Of note in this area are
The
Arrowhead,
Mt. Sevy,
Birthday Cake, The Sentry, and
The
Coffin. Those peaks often require ropes, but for the hearty scrambler Dave's
Peak provides good Class 4 climbing comparable to
Perfect Peak or
Merritt Peak
Routes
East Ridge (Class 4):
From the Hell
Roaring Trailhead, follow the climbers trail as if you were heading to the
Finger of Fate. Continue on the north side of Hell Roaring Lake to Clarice Lake,
where most of the Finger of Fate climbers set up camp. From here, continue to
follow the climbers trail southeast of the Finger and pass just south of the
Finger formation. The slopes look steep, but they are quite manageable and
stable by Sawtooth standards. Find a ramp angling southwest, then angle back
toward the northwest until you are just south of the east ridge of Sevy, and
just east of the highest (Arrowhead) Lake. In this area you will have a
spectacular view of the
Arrowhead.
Hike to the uppermost lake underneath The Arrowhead and fill up with water
here as this is often the last water source. From this area, the false
summit of Dave's Peak is obvious. Also obvious is a rib of solid rock running up
from the lake toward the east shoulder of Dave's. Climb this rib to obtain solid
rock, or scramble just to the right in scree fields until you hit the prominent
east ridge of Dave's. For a treat, peak over the main Sawtooth Crest just to the
west and enjoy the massive drop off. Continuing to the summit, find a easy place
to cross the east ridge and drop down approximately 100 feet down on the south
slopes of the east ridge. From here traverse west underneath the knife edged
east ridge, avoiding obstacles. At a point you will need to ascend again to just
underneath the ridge and bypass a prominent rib as you'll climb up and over this
rib. Just past this rib you should see a massive window of rock with a giant
drop off toward Cramer Lakes and the vertical north side of Dave's Peak.
Continue traversing west just under the ridge and at a point that appears to be
the highest point, climb from Class 3 slopes onto Class 4 rock. A tenuous pull
up move onto loose rock brings you to an airy ramp move that appears tougher
than it is. Make the move that brings you to the summit ridge. The summit ridge
is gentle from here, and climb 40 feet back to the east to the true summit. The
west slopes appear gentle from here, but drop off radically further down. The
views of Cramer's north side are impressive from the top. A summit register was
left at the summit in 2009.
It's unknown as to the origin of the name "Dave" for this peak, but the
reference appeared in an earlier version of
Tom Lopez's Idaho: A Climbing
Guide. The peak was then removed from the book as it was thought that
it didn't qualify as a peak in terms of prominence. A logical, but unconfirmed
assumption would be that it's named after Dave Underhill, an early Sawtooths
climber. Regardless of any of this, the peak is an excellent scramble.
Note: The author would rank this route as a a top 10 Sawtooth scramble.
5.2 miles and 3787 feet
gain (one way)
Round Trip Time Estimate: 4-6
hours
Other Routes- Little is known about other routes, but the
south slopes from Profile Lake appear to provide a similar approach to the same
east ridge route. All west and north slopes appear to be vertical.