Overview

Located in Strathcona Provincial Park and one of the higher peaks on Vancouver Island, King's Peak is a double-peaked glaciated mountain at 6,774 feet high (2065 m). The higher peak (the east one) is called King's Peak and the smaller, western one is called Queen's Ridge. King's Peak has a trail to its summit and it is extremely demanding. It starts at about 1000 feet and climbs over 5700 feet in about 4 miles over tree roots, scree fields, meadows, gullies and rock ridges. You can also climb snow routes into the Spring. The route up the narrow gully from a hanging valley to the glacier looks like it would be awesome.

Additional summer routes include:
North Ridge on King's Peak (4th and low 5th class)
On Queen's Ridge are Pauper's Buttress (5.7 - 2 pitches), Tea With Her Majesty (5.8 - 8 pitches), Jester (5.8 - 2 pitches) and Northern Lights (5.10c - 5 pitches). For additional info, see wildisle.ca. (Do a Google search inside wildisle.ca for King's Peak and you'll get a picture of these routes.)

The glacier sits between the two summits and is crevassed, at least late in the season it is. Views extend from the mainland to out near the Pacific and include Elkhorn Mountain and Mt. Colonel Foster to the south. I don't think alot of climbers are aware of what is on Vancouver Island but it's well worth the trip.

Getting There

From the USA you need to travel north on Interstate 5 to the Canadian border. Cross over and it becomes Highway 99. Take this north about 30 kms or so (don't quote me on that distance) to Highway 17 near Delta, BC. Take Highway 17 to Tsawwassen, BC where you can catch the ferry to Nanaimo on Vancouver Island. It's about a 2 hour ride over to Vancouver Island. From Nanaimo, take Highway 19 north to Campbell River. Once there, turn left onto Highway 28 and take that to a point 11.5 miles past Buttle Lake Campground to a logging road on the left. This logging road is just after a large red and white marked post on the right hand side of the road. Take this logging road about half a mile or so to the trailhead on the left. The trailhead is not identified but there is a yellow sign warning of avalanche dangers, etc. The trailhead is also just before a small bridge across Elk River.

Red Tape

When To Climb

Camping

Mountain Conditions

Images

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