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Poultry Pillar, 5.8-5.10a
Mountain/Rock

Poultry Pillar, 5.8-5.10a

 
Poultry Pillar, 5.8-5.10a

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Idaho, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 42.12572°N / 113.67159°W

Object Title: Poultry Pillar, 5.8-5.10a

Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Oct 7, 2015 / Apr 10, 2016

Object ID: 955732

Hits: 315 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
Oputina, 5.10a
Opuntia, 5.10a

Poultry Pillar, Wedding Wall and O-Town Tower are three rather nondescript features sharing the same ridge located due north from the Castle Rock massive itself.  It takes just minutes to reach these objectives from the trail head. Most of the FA’s were put in during Brad Shilling’s (long time local climbing ranger) wedding and thus the origin of several of the names.  Poultry Pillar offers the majority of the climbs of these three features. It’s bolted southeast arête, Opuntia, 5.10a, if perhaps the best climb and reaches 100’, To Have and To Hold, 5.9, on the same side as Opuntia, is worthy. Its west side also has a few starred moderates.

From the main Castle Rocks trail head, follow the marked trails north and turn west as you would head for Crack House and/or Hostess Gully on the north side of Castle. As you head up a switch back trail between Castle and Poultry Pillar, the colorful southeast face of Poultry is on your right. To Have and To Hold is on the left and the arête on the right is Opuntia (photo).

Route Description(s)

Southeast Face
Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall
  • A Groom with a View- 5.10a**/

  • To Honor and Obey- 5.9*/

  • To Have and To Hold-5.9**/Has a fun steep start (layback on a flake), but top half becomes low angled. Six bolts to chains. The FA’ers should have run it through the roof above at the same grade (which is a bit soft). As it stands, it stops below the roof. Bolted and Single Rope Rap. Dow
  • Opuntia- 5.10a**/This is a better route than To Have and To Hold. Start beneath the bolted arête and enjoy a mostly cruiser pitch. As it steepens, there is a bit of route finding, most, if not all, the moves were 5.9 or less. There is one bolt near the top that trends right, but you move back left to finish on better ground. Plenty of side pulls. Bolted and Single Rope Rap. Dow
West Face
Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall
  • Chicken Slinger- 5.9**/

  • Drumstick Direct- 5.8*/

Images

Poultry PillarTo Have and To Hold, 5.9Oputina, 5.10a