Welcome to SP!  -   
 
 New features are here! - Read More... 
Areas & Ranges·Mountains & Rocks·Routes·Images·Articles·Trip Reports·Gear·Other·People·Plans & Partners·What's New·Forum

Ärmighorn SW-Vorgipfel
Mountain/Rock

Ärmighorn SW-Vorgipfel

 
Ärmighorn SW-Vorgipfel

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Berner Oberland, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.53885°N / 7.71266°E

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing

Elevation: 8474 ft / 2583 m

 

Page By: Fred SpickerMoni

Created/Edited: May 30, 2004 / Nov 11, 2009

Object ID: 152664

Hits: 3834 

Page Score: 88.01% - 13 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview

 
Ärmighorn routes from the north
Ärmighorn from the north (Kandersteg)

The Ärmighorn (2742 m.) is a small limestone peak located between the Kandertal and Kiental on the west end of the Bernese Alps. The main summit is of little or no interest as a climbing objective, but the SW-Vorgipfel (SW-fore summit) has some of the finest limestone climbing routes on this end of the range. The West Ridge is included by Hans Grossen in his book BERNER OBERLAND Die 100 schönsten Touren (The 100 best climbs in the Berner Oberland). There are at least 10 routes ranging from IV+ to extremely difficult sport climbs on the peak.

From the summit, one has an excellent view of the Balmhorn, Doldenhorn, Fründenhorn, and Blümlisalphorn Group

An excellent closer view of Ärmighorn

Getting There

The long hike up from the valley can be shortened by taking a private lift from Mitholz to Giessenen Alp - about one and a half hours from the alp to the peak. Or, by driving a private mountain toll road from Kandergrund - about two hours from the end of the road.

TOPO MAP
 
The private lift to Giessenen Alp.
Top of lift


Routes

The classic route on the peak is the West Ridge variously rated as IV+ or V-. It is an outstanding very steep ridge climb about 300 meters in height with at least 7 pitches. The route closely follows the most logical route up the ridge. Most belay stances are fixed, and there is some fixed protection.

The difficult sport climbs are located on the steep south wall (S-Wändli) to the east (climber's right) of the ridge.
 
West Ridge Ärmighorn SW-Vorgipfel
On W Ridge
 
West Ridge  Ärmighorn SW-Vorgipfel
On W Ridge
 
West Ridge Ärmighorn SW-Vorgipfel
On W Ridge
 
West Ridge Ärmighorn SW-Vorgipfel
View down W Ridge

Descent

The descent is mostly a walk off with one fixed chain on a nasty spot. It is about an hour and a half back down to the alp and very steep - be sure to take hiking boots.
 
 View south  from Ärmighorn.
Summit view north
 
Descent route on Ärmighorn.
On descent
 
Descent route on Ärmighorn.
On descent

Overnight

The Ärmighorn is an easy day climb from nearly any valley base in the Berner Oberland or even possibly from further away. The closest towns of "size" are Kandersteg and Frutigen

I suppose that if one were so inclined that you could camp in the meadows below the peak.

Images

West Ridge Ärmighorn SW-VorgipfelÄrmighorn routes from the northÄrmighorn from TschingelseeÄrmighorn from TschingelseeÄrmighorn, seen from Alp Agne...West Ridge  Ärmighorn SW-Vorgipfel
Descent route on Ärmighorn.Ärmighorn from the north...West Ridge Ärmighorn SW-VorgipfelThe private lift to Giessenen Alp.Moni on summit, Ärmighorn SW-Vorgipfel View south  from Ärmighorn.
[ View Gallery - 2 More Images ]



"It was a blonde, a blonde to make a bishop kick a hole in a stained glass window."   --Raymond Chandler   

© 2006-2012 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.