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Ärmighorn SW-Vorgipfel
Mountain/Rock

Ärmighorn SW-Vorgipfel

 
Ärmighorn SW-Vorgipfel

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Berner Oberland, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.53885°N / 7.71266°E

Object Title: Ärmighorn SW-Vorgipfel

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing

Elevation: 8474 ft / 2583 m

 

Page By: Fred Spicker, Moni

Created/Edited: May 30, 2004 / Mar 5, 2013

Object ID: 152664

Hits: 5217 

Page Score: 81.18%  - 13 Votes 

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Overview

 
Ärmighorn routes from the north
Ärmighorn from the north (Kandersteg)

The Ärmighorn (2742 m.) is a small limestone peak located between the Kandertal and Kiental on the west end of the Bernese Alps. The main summit is of little or no interest as a climbing objective, but the SW-Vorgipfel (SW-fore summit) has some of the finest limestone climbing routes on this end of the range. The West Ridge is included by Hans Grossen in his book BERNER OBERLAND Die 100 schönsten Touren (The 100 best climbs in the Berner Oberland). There are at least 10 routes ranging from IV+ to extremely difficult sport climbs on the peak.

From the summit, one has an excellent view of the Balmhorn, Doldenhorn, Fründenhorn, and Blümlisalphorn Group

An excellent closer view of Ärmighorn

Getting There

The long hike up from the valley can be shortened by taking a private lift from Mitholz to Giessenen Alp - about one and a half hours from the alp to the peak. Or, by driving a private mountain toll road from Kandergrund - about two hours from the end of the road.  NOTE - at least one report from 2009 states that this cable car is no longer available for use - check locally for updates and/or further information.

TOPO MAP
 
The private lift to Giessenen Alp.
Top of lift


Routes

GUIDEBOOK Plaisir West

The classic route on the peak is the West Ridge variously rated as IV+ or V-. It is an outstanding very steep ridge climb about 300 meters in height with at least 7 pitches. The route closely follows the most logical route up the ridge. Most belay stances are fixed, and there is some fixed protection.

The difficult sport climbs are located on the steep south wall (S-Wändli) to the east (climber's right) of the ridge.
 
West Ridge Ärmighorn SW-VorgipfelOn W Ridge
 
West Ridge  Ärmighorn SW-VorgipfelOn W Ridge
 
West Ridge Ärmighorn SW-VorgipfelOn W Ridge
 
West Ridge Ärmighorn SW-VorgipfelView down W Ridge

Descent

The descent is mostly a walk off with one fixed chain on a nasty spot. It is about an hour and a half back down to the alp and very steep - be sure to take hiking boots.
 
 View south  from Ärmighorn.Summit view north
 
Descent route on Ärmighorn.On descent
 
Descent route on Ärmighorn.On descent

Overnight

The Ärmighorn is an easy day climb from nearly any valley base in the Berner Oberland or even possibly from further away. The closest towns of "size" are Kandersteg and Frutigen

I suppose that if one were so inclined that you could camp in the meadows below the peak.

Images

West Ridge Ärmighorn SW-VorgipfelMoni on summit, Ärmighorn SW-Vorgipfel View south  from Ärmighorn.West Ridge  Ärmighorn SW-VorgipfelDescent route on Ärmighorn.Ärmighorn from the north...West Ridge Ärmighorn SW-Vorgipfel
Descent route on Ärmighorn.West Ridge Ärmighorn SW-VorgipfelÄrmighorn routes from the northThe private lift to Giessenen Alp.Ärmighorn, seen from Alp Agne...Ärmighorn from TschingelseeÄrmighorn from Tschingelsee