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Rose Tower, 5.7-5.10b
Mountain/Rock

Rose Tower, 5.7-5.10b

 
Rose Tower, 5.7-5.10b

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Nevada, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.11640°N / 115.4933°W

Object Title: Rose Tower, 5.7-5.10b

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Fall, Winter

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Apr 7, 2008 / Mar 12, 2013

Object ID: 394668

Hits: 3033 

Page Score: 86.85%  - 23 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
Olive Oil, 5.7
 Olive Oil, 5.7

Rose Tower sits between Juniper and Pine Creek Canyons. It gets its name from reflecting a pink hue in the morning sunlight on its upper eastern face. From the east the climbing looks quite chossy and short, but from the south (Juniper Canyon’s south bank) the dome like Rose Tower gives off a much more favorable impression.

Rose Tower has six published routes as of 2008, all traditional lines. By far the most popular of them is Olive Oil- 665’- 5.7, another classic Jorge and Joanne Urioste route put up in 1977. Olive Oil had been the subject of consternation when someone added bolts (to a perfectly protected trad route with the exception of a few easy run out sections) for stations and protection. The problem was that the stations can all be easily built with gear as well as any crux moves on the route can be easily protected. In any regard, as of 2008, all of the bolts on this route have been removed. The original route on Rose Tower was actually put in a year earlier by Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton, Original Route, 700’, 5.7. It follows a much less desirable (more broken) right line up the southeast face but shares the last pitch of Olive Oil.
 
Jackrabbit Buttress
 
   
Park at the Pine Creek trailhead. There are two approaches to Juniper Canyon. Either hike down the main Pine Creek trail and traverse around the old home site to intersect Oak Creek Trail, or locate a more indistinct trail at the Fire Ecology Loop. They both require crossing Pine Creek ascending up to the south bank. In any regard, you hook into the Oak Creek trail which runs north and south below Rose Tower and Jackrabbit Buttress. Take a right onto the Juniper Canyon approach trail and take the 2nd distinct trail that leads up to a vegetated gully between Rose Tower and Jackrabbit Buttress. The first right turnoff leads up the descent gully for Rose Tower. The best way to discern the left corner of Rose Tower at this point is a significant roof off the ground about 30m. Head into the gully hugging the southeast corner of Rose Tower (left of the roof). Scramble up boulders several hundred yards to a deep left facing chimney on the right side of the gully. This is the base of Olive Oil and a reference point for the other routes on Rose Tower.

Route Description(s)

The Routes are Listed Right to Left as you Face the SE Face of Rose Tower

  • Original Route- 700’- 5.7/
  • Although this route starts just right of Olive Oil, it finishes on the same last pitch.

  • Olive Oil- 665’- 5.7/
  • Have soloed this route twice in the past few years...to me it is one of the safer solo opportunities at Red Rock...tons of traffic thus clean rock, little if any exposed slab and a walk off.  With a 70m rope, you can convert Olive Oil’s five to six pitches into four. The 2nd-3rd pitch combined was a fantastic pitch of 5.7 classical Red Rocks climbing. The last pitch involved some fun chimney aspects as well. In 2008, on the first pitch, someone had left a bail sling slung on a horn with a rappel ring. From below, this looks like a fixed station. Do not head for this sling, otherwise you will have to down climb. Rather the route goes right into a small sandy ledge below a corner. Dow

  • One-Armed Bandit- 490’- 5.7/


  • Jaws II- 250’- 5.10b/


  • The Deep- 5.9/


  • Finding Nemo- 5.9/
  • Descent off of Rose Tower

    All the routes eventually take you to the top of Rose Tower via 4th class scrambling to finish them off. Once at the summit, descend some slab mushroom features to the west, down climbing a few exposed steps along the way. The descent gully is on your right. Scramble back down the gulley to hook into any numerous trails that head back northeast. If you are going to leave bags or gear at the base, it is best to do so before you head up the gully to the south of Rose Tower. There is a roof on the east face with a small alcove below it. This is a good spot to gear up. To catch this spot on descent, you will have to scramble back right before you descend all the way to any trail.

    Essential Gear

    Regarding Olive Oil, I highly recommend a 70m rope or simul climb pitches 2-3 and pitch 5 which is more than 200’ to a comfortable belay. With a 70m rope, you will belay in a comfortable spot on all occasions and the route will go quite a bit faster. These are all trad lines and will require an assortment of gear as spelled out in Jerry’s Handren’s “Red Rocks, A Climbers Guide”. The summit of Rose Tower allows for a quick descent to the north. Carrying shoes up for this descent would be worthwhile. The routes are southeast facing and most pitches are quite sunny, but several of the belays can be shaded due to corners, so if spring climbing, take a jacket.

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