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South Arete Variation

South Arete Variation

South Arete Variation

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Object Title: South Arete Variation

Route Type: Scrambling

Season: Spring, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: Class 4

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: PrestonRhea

Created/Edited: Sep 13, 2010 / Sep 13, 2010

Object ID: 660189

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This route is just a variation to the South Arete of El Cajon mountain for those who want a bit more actual scrambling. As of August 2010, the approach has been cleaned out by fire, but it may get hard to get to the base again due to classic San Diego bushwhacking.

Getting There

Start just like climbing the South Arete except stay off below the ridge to the right (eastern) side.

Route Description

The lowest point in the cliffs just to the right of the ridge is the start of the route. There are a couple options here on how to start: an easy gully (low 3rd class) up to a ledge or just to the left of that a very featured slab face (4th to low 5th class) that is very enjoyable if not a bit exposed.

From the ledge head left and up aiming for a large dihedral that connects with the summit. After gaining the dihedral, climb up the right side following a crack system (4th class) to a ledge that would put you about half way up the dihedral. At this point you can head left back into the dihedral via a slabby traverse and either climb out left or try to finish the dihedral (probably 4th class for the first option and 5th for the second) or follow ledges and weaknesses up and to the right for a nice 4th class finish a little higher on the ridge.

Finish up the South Arete route and descend the same.

Essential Gear

A good pair of approach shoes or boots and lots of water.


Looking DownStarting SlabMain LedgeAshes to Ashes - South Arete Variation