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Szarpane Turnie (Osarpance)

Szarpane Turnie (Osarpance)

Szarpane Turnie (Osarpance)

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Tatry Wysokie (High Tatra Mountains), Slovakia, Europe

Object Title: Szarpane Turnie (Osarpance)

Elevation: 7755 ft / 2364 m


Page By: abcd17

Created/Edited: Jun 12, 2005 / Jun 13, 2005

Object ID: 154218

Hits: 5800 

Page Score: 80.49%  - 12 Votes 

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Beautiful mountain with three peaks (Wielka Szarpana Turnia - Velky Osarpaniec, Posrednia Szarpana Turnia - Prostredny Osarpanec and Mala szarpana Turnia - Maly Osarpanec) in a ridge that comes from Wysoka (2565 m.) to south-east through Smoczy Szczyt (Draci Stit, 2523 m.) and Szarpana Przelaczka (Dracia Strbina). First climbed by Heinrich Behn, Ernst Dubke and guides Johann Breuer and Johann Franz in 1907.
The easiest way to reach the peak goes through Szarpana Przelaczka (Dracia Strbina) III. It is also the easiest descend (with one rappel 17 m.).
There are two very popular climbing faces - the western face (200 m.) and south-western (up to 120 m.).

Getting There

Good starting point for approaching Szarpane Turnie is Popradski Staw Shelter at 1500 m. The shelter can be reached on foot from the train stop 'Popradske Pleso' (leave your car at parking there) through a good road marked blue. When you spend night in a shelter (reservations at 00421-52-4492177 or 00421-52-4492765, email: recepcia@popradskepleso.sk, web), you can reach the shelter by car and park it just by the shelter (please notify the shelter manager about it). To reach Szarpane Turnie go along Zmarzly Potok (Frozen Stream) - see details on the map (1.5 hour apprach from the shelter).

When To Climb

All over the year. Summer conditions are the best starting with early July till late October.


Stay in Popradske Pleso shelter (open all year long, reservations at 00421-52-4492177 or 00421-52-4492765, email: recepcia@popradskepleso.sk, web ).

Mountain Conditions

To find an information on weather go to: ICM or IMGW. The information about avalanche security is available at: HZS or TOPR.

Tatra Mountains Rescue Service (Horska Zachranna Sluzba)

If you require medical assistance during a climb please call Tatra Mountains Rescue Service HZS at 052/4422820 or 0903 624 869. More info about the HZS.

General Information about Tatra Mountains

A good info page about the Tatra Mountains.


Getting through the crux at...Szarpane Turnie from Zlomiska ValleyClimbing \'Puskas\' route on...\'Puskas\' route on...W. Wenta leading the first...Osarpance and Dračí štitWysoka, Smoczy Szczyt and...
Puskas route after 2 pitchesApproaching Szarpane Turnie...Zlobisty Szczyt taken from...Szarpane Turnie south-west faceView from the \'Popradzki...Beautiful slabby...Approach to Szarpane Turnie...
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