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Bradavica
Mountain/Rock

Bradavica

 
Bradavica

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Slovakia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 49.13000°N / 20.09400°E

Object Title: Bradavica

Elevation: 8123 ft / 2476 m

 

Page By: dynercia

Created/Edited: Nov 21, 2005 / Nov 30, 2005

Object ID: 155024

Hits: 8086 

Page Score: 81.18%  - 13 Votes 

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Overview



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Bradavica / Staroleśny Szczyt is an outstanding summit with a very characteristic appearance, which its four summits (top crags) shape. These crags form two groups: lower with Pawłowa Turnia and Kwietnikowa Turnia and higher with Tajbrowa Turnia and Klimkowa Turnia. Between this two groups the outstanding Sedlo Bradavic / Klimkowe Wrótka is situated. This crags’ configuration causes that if you one time see Bradavica you do not mistake this summit with another.


Bradavica (the highest) seen from Strelecka Kotlina

Bradavica lies in the lateral ridge, which detaches from the main ridge of Tatra Mountains on Vychodná Vysoká / Mała Wysoka and is the highest summit in this ridge. It ascends over the large Vel’ká Studená / Staroleśna Valley (north), the little Slavkovská / Sławkowska Valley (south-east) and Velická Valley / Wielicka Valley (south-west). To the south-east it is separated from Slavkovský Štit / Sławkowski Szczyt massif by Slavkovské Sedlo / Sławkowska Przełęcz. The norf-west ridge connects Bradavica with Vychodná Vysoká through two lower summits: Kupola / Baniasta Turnia and Westerov Štit / Zwalista Turnia. The south ridge forms a few crags – Velické Granáty / Granaty Wielickie, very interesting for climbers.

The Slovakian name means “wart” and comes from a shape of the summit formed by four crags. The Polish name of the summit comes from Staroleśna Valley / Vel’ká Studená Valley and this from a little village at the foot of Tatra Mountains. Two higher top-crags owe names to its first conquerors: Klimek Bachleda and Jan Bachleda Tajber.

First ascend



Kazimierz Przerwa-Tetmajer and Tadeusz Boy-Żeleński - two fames Polish writers, with legendary guides Klimek Bachleda and Jan Bachleda Tajber reached the summit as the first in 1892 year. In winter the first ascend belongs to and Ernst Dubke, Alfred Martin with guides and Johann Frantz senior (1906).


Getting There



FROM SLOVAKIAN SIDE:

The major city in this area is Poprad, where you can get by bus or train. From Poprad there is a lot of buses and trains to Starý Smokovec (13km) at the foot of Tatra:
train time table
bus time table
train time table from Poprad to Starý Smokovec Tatranská elektrická železnica

Maps of Starý Smokovec and Tatranská Lomnica
From Starý Smokovec take a Tatranská elektrická železnica (better) or bus to Tatranská Polianka.

FROM POLISH SIDE:

The best point to stars the journey is Zakopane – the biggest town on Polish side of Tatra Mountains. You can get there from Kraków by bus (most recommended), car or train:
By bus: there are a lot of buses from Kraków to Zakopane - time table of PKS and private lines Frey and Szwagropol.
By train: the road is much longer and dearer than by bus - time table from Kraków 0.00-11.59 a.m., 12.00-11.59 p.m. and from Zakopane.
By car: from Kraków take a road number 7 to Chyżne and follow it to Rabka. Here this road turn right to Chyżne, but you follow still straight a head in south direction by road number 95. In Poronin 5 km before Zakopane turn left (east) to border crossing point in Łysa Polana.

From Zakopane: Take a bus to Polana Palenica (time table of PKS, in high season there are a lot of private buses, too – a station is opposite to PKS) and get off in Łysa Polana / Lysá Pol’ana (Attention! private buses sometimes has a direction-board “Morskie Oko”). Cross the polish-slovakian border . Bus station on Slovakian side is about 100m after border crossing point on the right. Take a bus to Poprad, which goes through Starý Smokovec (time table).

From Starý Smokovec take a Tatranská elektrická železnica (better) or bus to Tatranská Polianka.

IN MOUNTAIN:
From Tatranská Polianka: take a green-marked trail leading to Sliezsky Dom Chalet (about 2 h 30 min).
You can get here directly from Starý Smokovec, too: first take a yellow-marked trail in Sliezsky Dom direction and follow it to the end (2 h 45 min). When you reach it follow a green-marked trail to Sliezsky Dom (15 min).


Routes overview



NORMAL ROUTES

Tetmajer's route - long, but one of the most beautiful route on Bradavica with excellents views
By Granatová Lávka - shorter route, but last part a bit complicated. Much easier to finde in opposit direction.

CLIMBINGS ROUTES

Granátova stena - it is the west wall of Vel’ká Granátova Veža / Wielka Granacka Baszta in Velické Granáty ridge
general TOPO
Approach: from Sliezsky Dom take a green-marked trail leading on Pol'sky Hreben and follow it to Kvetnicove Pleso. A bit after it turn right from marked rout and walk up through grass and scree upright under the wall (about 45 min).
south-west wall:
1. Left rib (IV) 4h
2. By left part of wall (IV) 3-4h
3. Left pillar (IV+) 4h
4. Superdiretissima (V+, A0),
5. Ľavým zárezom z kotla (IV) 3-4h.
6. Gálfy - Kurilla (V,V+) 5h.
7. Direttissima (V+,A2,RP:6+) 13h. TOPO
8. Cesta horských vodcov (Mountain guides’ rout) (V-VI,A1) 7h. TOPO
9. Tatarkova cesta (V+) 4-5h.
10. Kriššákova cesta (by right depressia) (V) 3h. TOPO
11. Right pillar (IV, V) 3h TOPO
12. Granátový Mních (III-IV,miesto VI,A1) 2h.
13. Right rib (IV) 5h

Velická Stena - it is the west wall of Dvojitá Veža / Dwoista Turnia, the last south crag in Velické Granáty ridge
south-west wall
Approach: from Sliezsky Dom take a green-marked trail leading on Pol'sky Hreben and follow it to Večný Dažď / Mokra Wanta („wet outcrop”) – the first step of valley over chalet. Here turn right to a couloir and climb up by it to a grassy cirque under our wall.
general TOPO
1. Cez výlom (IV,V) 3h.
2. Stredom JZ steny (VI) 5h.
3. Vestenický - Rozsíval (VI-,A2,RP:6) 5,5h. TOPO
4. Talianske kapričo (IV+,A0) 2,5h. TOPO
5. Pilierom JZ steny (III,IV+) 1h. TOPO
6. Birkenmajerova cesta (IV) 1,25h.
7. Centrálny žľab Velických veží (II,III)
8. Pravé rebro (II-IV) ?h.
west wall
general TOPO 1 and TOPO 2
1. Hrana Velickej steny (IV,V) 2h.
2. Weincziller - vhĺbením (V) 2h.
3. Vzpomínka na Bimba (IV+,A2) 12h. TOPO
4. Gálfy - Urbanovič (V,VI) 3h. TOPO
5. Cez výlom (IV,V) 3h. TOPO and another TOPO
6. Grószova cesta - prístup (II)
7. Žlab pod Dvojitou vežou (II,III)
north-west wall
general TOPO
1. Hampl-Gibas (V-) 1,5h. TOPO
2. Drlík-Orolín-Vaško (V,A2,RP:6) 7h. TOPO
3. Kaňa - Luczy (IV) 1h.
4. Hranou Velickej steny (IV,V) 2h.

Maps




Map of Bradavica’ area

Tatry Wysokie, in scale 1:25 000, description in 6 languages, ISBN 83-87873-26-8, available in all shops in Zakopane. Here you can look at net version.
A high quality maps in scales 1:25 000 and 1:50 000 are produced VKU Harmanec, too. They are available at all chalets and shops in cities under Vysoke Tatry.


When To Climb


The best time is a summer and early autumn (June - October), but the summit is available within the whole year.

Red Tape



The “High Tatra” is a National park, UN Bioheritage area and a European BioHeritage - if you are not a member of any climbing club you can move only on marked trails - so you can visit Bradavica only with tatra guide.

In winter time (from November the 1st – June the 15th) The Tatra Mountains in Slovakian part are closed for normal tourists (not for climbers). In Polish part you can move the whole of year.

For more informations look at High Tatra/Vysoke Tatry GROUP page.
For climbing regulations look at
Gerlachovsky Stit page.


Accommodation



There are two chalets near by Bradavica:

Sliezsky Dom - a huge mountain hotel situated by a mouth of Velická / Wielicka Valley on the south shore of Velické Pleso. The dearest chalet in whole Tatra Mountains (one night about 20-25 euro) and one of the most ugly. But sole in this area.
Access from:
1. Tatranská Polianka – green-marked trail, 2 h 30 min
2. Tatranské Zruby - blue/yellow/green marked trails, 2 h 30 min
3. Starý Smokovec – yellow/green marked trails, 3 h
4. Hrebienok – red-marked trail, 2 h
5. Chata Popradské Pleso – red-marked trail, 3 h 45 min
Contact:
adres: Chalet Sliezsky dom, 059 82 Tatranská Polianka, Slovak Republic, EU
mail: mail@sliezskydom.sk
telephone: ++421-52-4425261
fax: ++421-52-4425202

Zbojnicka Chata situated in upper part of Vel’ká Studená Valley. Chalet is opened all the year for hiking, climbing and ski mountaineering.
Access from:
1. Starý Smokovec – green/red/blue-marked trail, 3 h 45 min
2. Hrebienok – red/blue-marked trail, 2 h 45 min
3. Teryho Chata – yellow-marked trail (3 h)
4. Lysa Pol’ana – blue-marked trail (6 h 15min)
Contact:
adres: Zbojnícka chata, 062 01 Starý Smokovec, Vysoké Tatry, Slovakia
mail: info@zbojnickachata.sk
telephone: ++421 903 638 000 or +421 903 619 000

Absolutely no camping is permitted in the nature park. The nearest camping in Slovakian side is in Stara Lesna and Tatranska Lomnica.

There are plenty of cheap hotels and pensions in the area of Stary Smokovec and Štrbské Pleso: accommodation


Mountain Conditions



Web forecast:
situation at this moment and forecast

Information of avalanche danger:
TOPR (in English) and HZS

Rescue:
On Slovakian side acts HZS (Horska Zachranna Sluzba)
Starý Smokovec 23, 059 60 Vysoké Tatry
phon.: 052/4422820, fax: 052/4422855,
mobil: 0903624869
e-mail: vtatry@hzs.sk
www.hzs.sk


Images