The Taco, 5.7-5.11a

Overview/Approach

(Dow leading Taco Supreme, 5.10b**, above) The Taco is not a primary destination at Castle Rocks but does offer enough climbing to take up most of a day.  The best route by far is Bandito, 5.11a**, which is a pure trad climb up a right facing flake/corner.  It starts out thin, goes wide and turns to hands at the top, all via steep terrain placing gear at will.  Many of the other routes on the Taco are relatively easy to moderate tall sport climbs.   The Taco has both an east and west face which makes it a prime suspect for an all-day affair if you are running from or chasing the sun. 

The east face starts with Bandito on the left as the obvious right facing corner.  La Cruz de la Norte, 5.9*, and Holy Frijoles, 5.10a*, are worthy tall (over 100’ each) sport climbs to the right of Bandito.  These first three routes on the left of the east face have their independent fixed raps.  Conejito and No Mas are a couple of 5.8* routes located at the north end of the east face and do not share the same staging area as the first three.  At the south end of the Taco formation is an easy crack climb for the grade, South Ridge, 5.8**, which is a straight in hands corner to an easier face section to a fixed rap up and left.  Continuing up around the left side to the west face you will find a shaded corridor of sorts with ivy.  Some of these routes are a bit contrived.  Mole Poblano, 5.9**, is the first one you come to, an aggressively bolted easy route for the grade with a variation gear finish.  The next route to the left, Taco Chip, 5.9***, is worthy but overrated in the guide.  Continuing left through the chimney cleft formed by a massive boulder is a mixed climb named Taco Supreme, 5.10b**, which has some cool moves but seemed soft for the grade.  There are three easier routes between Taco Chip and Taco Supreme.

Park at the State Park parking area just above the ranch house.  Hike through the gate and along the road (NE), following the signs for the Taco which is a left turn off the road and then a right turn to the formation.  Approximately 20 minutes from parking.

East Face, Listed Left to Right

Bandito- 80’-5.11a**/ The guide describes Bandito as “one of the better 5.11 cracks at Castles (sic)”.   I concur.  This is a beautiful curving right facing corner at the left end of the east wall.  The crux is the first half of the route, from a short layback off the deck to fingers to tight hands and then a layback over a horn half way up.  From there to the rap chains atop the corner are secure hands.  Great rock, great gear, great movement.  More sustained than Comp Splitter (5.11a****) but without a section as challenging as the crux move on that climb.  Both are equal climbs, yet the guide gives Comp Splitter several more stars for some reason.  Bandito is every bit as good.  Double rack to C4#2.  Special note:  After laybacking to the 2^nd half of the climb, there is a constriction in the corner that can snag a rope.  My rope fell in that perfect rope sized constriction and I had to pull rope up as I climbed and therefore had to essentially solo to the top from that point.  Best to flick your rope aggressively to keep it out of that constriction.  Dow

La Cruz Direct- 105’-5.10b*/ Fully bolted climb.  The first three bolts run up a detached slab which I guess is the crux.  The rest of the route is a thoughtful 5.9 face climb to the fixed anchor.  Nothing out of the ordinary.  Dow

Holy Frijoles- 105’-5.10a*/ Fully bolted climb, although 7 clips vs 10 as the guide suggests which make for a long run out section after the first several bolts.  There are horizontals if you want to supplement with gear.  The start is the crux, an awkward gain of a slab ramp after the first clip.   The run out section is easy.   Then it steepens to 5.9 face climbing above to the fixed anchor.  Dow

Conejito- 110’-5.8*/

No Mass- 110’-5.8*/

South Face

South Ridge- 90’-5.8**/ Located on the southwest corner by itself.  A secure solo for the competent climber.  Pure hand crack corner to a shoulder.  Then up and left through a bolt on a corner slab below the grade to the fixed rap.  Dow

West Face, Listed Right to Left

Mole Poblano- 75’-5.9**/ Fully (over) bolted line, soft for the grade.  At the right end of the west face, climb the easy, but fun, wide flake (SLC climbers would no doubt need a stick clip) to a stance below the first bolt.  Or cheat the route and go up the left side.  A bit of slab leads to edges to the fixed anchor.  A gear variation finish arcs up and right.  Dow

Taco Chip- 80’-5.9***/ More of a true 5.9 than Mole.  A mixed climb with more normally spaced bolts and a few horizontals if you need them.  Stem up the short right facing corner.  The crux is mantling the large sloper above.  Then mostly face climbing edges to the fixed anchor.  A few small pieces.  Dow

Vote for Pedro- 70’-5.8**/

Nacho Libre- 70’-5.7**/

Not a Taco- 40’-5.8*/

Taco Supreme- 60’-5.10b**/ Taco Supreme is by far the best route on the west wall regardless of grade.  Under the aesthetic large leaning block, left side, climb up several bolts via slab to reach a horizontal placement.  Continue up the bolts with another supplemental gear placement if you need it. Combination of slab and face moves.  A few small pieces.  Dow

Taco Left- 60’-5.8R*/