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Torre dei Sabbioni
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Torre dei Sabbioni

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Torre dei Sabbioni

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.48680°N / 12.24260°E

Object Title: Torre dei Sabbioni

County: Veneto

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Elevation: 8304 ft / 2531 m

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Sep 15, 2011 / Mar 25, 2014

Object ID: 746355

Hits: 2447 

Page Score: 91.75%  - 36 Votes 

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Overview

Geographical classification: Eastern Alps > Dolomites > Marmarole Group > Torre dei Sabbioni


Torre dei Sabbioni m. 2531


Torre dei Sabbioni is a superbe and secluded tower of "dolomia" situated inside the West part of Marmarole Group (UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE), Subgroup Bel Pra – Scotter – Bastioni, Eastern Dolomites, between the majestic high summit of Sorapiss (mt. 3205) and Corno del Doge (mt. 2615) – Cima Bel Pra (mt. 2917) impressive ridge.
In the opinion of Wolf (“I Monti Pallidi”, “Pale Mountains”) the name Marmarole could mean – as Marmolada – “splendour”.
First ascent of Torre dei Sabbioni, a very difficult climb in that time (1877), just opened a new era to the mountaineering in the Dolomites.




Torre dei Sabbioni summit view towards Dolomiti Ampezzane, Marmolada and Sella Group


“e il sole calante le aguglie
tinga a le pallide Dolomiti
sì che di rosa nel cheto vespero
le Marmarole care al Vecellio
rifulgan, palagio di sogni,
eliso di spiriti e di fate…”


Giosuè Carducci



History

A bit of history...

Till the middle of XIX century mountaineering activities were directed to the conquest of the highest summits along the easier route. In 1877 the alpine guide Luigi Cesaletti climbed unroped the difficult Torre dei Sabbioni, opening a great new page inside mountaineering's history: the beginning of the conquest of minor but harder summits. Cesaletti climbed a crux of IV grade UIAA: it was the first time that a climber dealt with such a difficult move and above all unroped and solo.



 
Torre dei Sabbioni Cesaletti Route - The crux
Torre dei Sabbioni - Cesaletti Route: the crux - Photo Silvia Mazzani
 
Torre dei Sabbioni from Forcella Grande
Torre dei Sabbioni from Forcella Grande

Getting there

The starting point to get to Torre dei Sabbioni is the little village of San Vito di Cadore m. 1011, 11 km. to Cortina d'Ampezzo, the main town in the area.

Getting to San Vito di Cadore

- From Belluno: follow the road SS 51 towards North, pass Longarone and reach Pieve di Cadore; from Pieve the SS51 turns to left, getting San Vito di Cadore.

- From Bolzano: take the Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Bressanone and then follow the road SS 49 along Val Pusteria, getting to Brunico and Dobbiaco; in Dobbiaco leave the Val Pusteria road and turn to right on the road SS51 entering Val di Landro and getting to Carbonin m. 1432. At the fork road in Carbonin turn to right towards Cortina d’Ampezzo, then San Vito di Cadore.

It's possible to do the approach to Torre dei Sabbioni both from Scotter Hut (2 hour by walking) and San Marco Hut (1 and a half hour by walking). The approach from the upper shelter is half an hour shorter.

Antelao seen from the path to the hut
Antelao seen from the path to the hut
Rifugio San Marco
Rifugio San Marco
Sunset over Pelmo
Sunset over Pelmo from Rif. San Marco



Road access to Scotter Hut


From San Vito di Cadore m. 1011 take a steep road towards NE – in full summer make inquiry about the road opening time – leading to Scotter Hut mt. 1580 (4,5 km. from San Vito) and to the upper parking. During high summer season, when the road is closed, it’s possible to reach the hut by chair-lift (open from the end of june to the first Sunday of september 8-13.30 and 14.30-18), leading at ten minutes by walking from Scotter Hut), or by taxi from San Vito di Cadore. By walking (228 path): 1 and a half hour from San Vito di Cadore to Scotter Hut.



Walking approach to San Marco Hut


From Scotter Hut mt. 1580 walk along the white road for a few meters, then turn to left following a good path to San Marco Hut (marks, number 228). The path rises along the wood, reaching in half an hour by pleasant walking the bucolic San Marco Hut mt. 1850, situated between Sorapiss, Antelao and West Marmarole Groups
– all inside the Unesco World Eritage list - inside a superb natural amphitheatre made by Cima Bel Prà, Scotter, Antelao and Tajola. The hut is a magnificent and panoramic place on Boite Valley, the gigantic Antelao, Monte Pelmo and Croda da Lago-Rocchette Group.

Sorapiss seen from the approach path
Sorapiss seen from the approach path
The scree surrounding Torre dei Sabbioni
The scree surrounding Torre dei Sabbioni
Torre dei Sabbioni from North
Torre dei Sabbioni from North


Approach from Rifugio San Marco - Follow the good path (n. 226) rising towards Forcella Grande mt. 2255, a wide saddle between Cima Bel Prà on the right-hand side and Cima Tajola on the left, and reaching the saddle. Torre dei Sabbioni is appearing if you're looking towards North. From Forcella Grande leave the main path on your left-hand side and follow an high and level narrow trail through the scree-slopes, surrounding all the sides of Torre dei Sabbioni and making almost a 360° round.

Cesaletti Normal Route report

Cesaletti Original Route report

Summit Altitude: mt. 2531
Difficulty: AD inf., max IV- UIAA
Climbing length: 170 mt., 250 mt. dev.
Exposure: South and East Sides
First ascent: Luigi Cesaletti alone 24-8-1877
Starting point: road San Vito di Cadore – Scotter Hut

Third chimney
Third chimney

A slender shape
A slender shape
 



Torre dei Sabbioni Cesaletti Original Route – the Normal one of the tower – is a classic and not usual climb, very important in reason of being an absolute milestone in mountaineering's history of the Dolomites and all Alps. This climb is really a thrilling trip all around Torre dei Sabbioni; climbing difficulty isn't high and the quality of "dolomia" is extraordinarily good. Climbing way is very pleasant, mainly inner, along chimneys, connected by easy and sometimes exposed ledges.
Due both to these qualities and the historical value of this route, the Cesaletti route's ascent can't be missed!


Approach - From San Marco Hut follow the good path (n. 226) rising towards Forcella Grande mt. 2255, a wide saddle between Cima Bel Prà on the right-hand side and Cima Tajola on the left, and reaching the saddle. Torre dei Sabbioni is appearing if you're looking towards North. From Forcella Grande leave the main path on your left-hand side and follow an high and level little trail through the scree-slopes, surrounding all the sides of Torre dei Sabbioni and making almost a 360° round, skirting at first West Face, then North and East ones and finally rising steeply to reach a great hanging terrace at Forcella Sabbioni, just below the South side of the tower, near a rocky bridge towards Cima Bel Prà. Here the route starts.

Cesaletti upper ledge traverse
Cesaletti upper ledge traverse

Climbing start
Climbing start
 




Climbing report

L1 – Climb a short step along a little shallow chimney, reaching the Lower ledge. Follow the ledge 20 meters towards left (facing in), reaching an obvious chimney with a jammed block in its upper part. Belay under the chimney. II, I.

L2 – Up along the chimney leading to the jammed block; climb it on the left side (crux, pegs) and belay soon afterwards. III and IV-, 25 mt.

L3 – Climb some easy rocks, reaching a ledge with some cairns (Middle ledge, peg). Follow the ledge 40 meters towards left (facing in). Belay along the ledge (peg and cairn), under another yellow chimney with another jammed block.

L4 – Climb the chimney and belay on a little terrace past the chimney at the beginning of Upper ledge (pegs). II, III, 30 mt.

Exiting the chimney
Exiting the chimney

Belay along the Upper Ledge
Belay along the Upper Ledge
 



L5 – Towards right (facing in) follow the ledge, at times covered by a low vault, with some exposed moves (pegs). II, III, 40 mt.

L6 – Follow again the Upper ledge 60 mt. towards right, reaching a belay under a shallow chimney. II

L7 – Climb the chimney, then head towards right reaching a block. Belay. II, III, 30 mt.

L8 – Easy rocks are leading over the wide and flat summit (little Mary's statue and Summit Book). The view all around over the neigbouring Eastern Dolomites Groups and far off over the Western Dolomites is truly unbeatable!!! It’s one of the best I’d never seen.

Sorapiss
Sorapiss seen from the summit

Torre dei Sabbioni summit view
Torre dei Sabbioni summit view




Descent: from the top walk towards SE along the wide flat summit reaching an obvious cairn situated near the first equipped belay. Two abseils (10 mt + 50 mt.) lead to the Upper Ledge. Another abseil reachs the Middle Ledge. From here two abseils lead to the Lower Ledge. Follow the ledge towards left – facing out – reaching the last step. Climb the last easy rocks leading to the basal terrace.

Other routes

Other Routes:

- SSW RIDGE II, IV
- WEST FACE III, IV+
- CASTIGLIONI NW V
- EAST FACE V+, VI
- BONAFEDE NE V and VI
- CAPRIOLI N VI, A2
- LIVANOS SW V+

Sunset over Antelao
Sunset over Antelao
Torre dei Sabbioni South Face
Torre dei Sabbioni South Face
Summit view
Summit view

Huts

Huts: San Marco Hut mt. 1850 (CAI – Club Alpino Italiano Sez. Venezia) – Phone +39 0436 9444 e-mail info@rifugiosanmarco.com – Open from June to September
RIFUGIO SAN MARCO

Scotter Hut mt. 1580 – Phone +39 0436 99035 – open from 20/7 to 20/9 and from 20/12 to 30/3
RIFUGIO SCOTTER


Sunset over Croda da Lago from the shelter
Sunset over Croda da Lago from the shelter

Rifugio San Marco
Rifugio San Marco
 


When to climb

Best season goes from the end of June to the end of September

Meteo

DOLOMITI METEO

DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008

CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

 
Torre dei Sabbioni map
 
IV grado in Dolomiti by Emiliano Zorzi - Idea Montagna Edizioni

“Dolomiti Orientali” Vol. I Parte I by Antonio Berti – Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI-TCI

“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni –Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi - Athesia Editore

“100 scalate classiche” by Walter Pause


Map: Tabacco n. 3 – Dolomiti Ampezzane 1:25.000

Images