Torre Pian dei Buoi : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

Late afternoon soft runrays on Pian dei Buoi, Marmarole Group

Pian dei Buoi meadows- Torre Pian dei Buoi in the middle

TORRE PIAN DEI BUOI m.2358

Torre Pian dei Buoi is a nice tower situated in the South-Eastern sector of the wild and secluded Marmarole Goup, Subgroup Ciastelin, between Torre Artù on the left and Torre S. Lorenzo on the right, and overlooking the lovely spot named Pian dei Buoi, a wide grassy and bucolic plane. In the opinion of Wolf (“I Monti Pallidi”, “Pale Mountains”) the name Marmarole could mean – as Marmolada – “splendour”. On the tower's South face we can climb is situated a very nice route on good “dolomia”; from the summit the mountaineer can enjoy a panoramic view on Northern Dolomites – Lavaredo, Croda dei Toni and Popera groups - truthfully awesome.

The approach to Torre Pian dei Buoi rising directly from Pian dei Buoi parking requests 45 minutes by walking. Otherwise it’s possible to spend the night at Ciareido Hut m. 1969, situated on
a grassy hill just in front of the peak (15 minutes by walking from the parking).

Getting There

ROAD ACCESS TO PIAN DEI BUOI

From Belluno follow the road SS 51 towards North reaching Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; from Pieve follow on the right the road SS51 bis towards Auronzo di Cadore, reaching the small village of Lozzo di Cadore m. 756. Here you must leave the main road and follow on the left-hand side a narrow road rising to Pian dei Buoi, a wide grassy plane situated in South-East side of Marmarole Group.

Panoramic views from Torre Pian dei Buoi

Croda dei Toni South sector from Torre PIan dei Buoi

Croda dei Toni and Popera Groups from Torre Pian dei Buoi

Tre Cime di Lavaredo Group from Torre Pian dei Buoi, Marmarole, Eastern Dolomites

Dal Negro route

Dal Negro last pitch's black wall

Torre Pian dei Buoi, Dal Negro route topo

DAL NEGRO ROUTE REPORT

Summit altitude: m. 2358
D inf., max V UIAA
Climbing length: 175 m.
Exposure: South-East
First ascent: R. Dal Negro summer 1982
Starting point: Pian dei Buoi
Hut: Ciareido Hut mt. 1969

From Pian dei Buoi a gravel track rises to Ciareido Hut m. 1969; a few minutes before getting to the hut follow on the right-hand side the path towards Auronzo di Cadore, leading in 5 minutes by walking below the steep scree rising towards the tower. Leave the main path and follow a vague trail rising at first between the dwarf pines and then along the right-hand side of the scree reaching the wide gully dividing Torre Pian dei Buoi from Torre Artù. Head towards right reaching the right-hand side of a little spur situated before the tower and then the base of a rocky gully where the route starts.

L1 – Up the rocky gully, easy at first, then more difficult, climbing some steep sections and reaching a comfortable stance. III, IV, 35 m. Belay’s pegs.
L2 – Carry on along the gully, climbing a very steep but short wall, then along easier rocks leading to another comfortable stance just below a magnificent black corner. III+, IV, 35 m. Belay’s pegs.
L3 – Climb the beautiful corner reaching a little stance inside it. IV+, 25 m. Belay’s pegs.
L4 – Continue up the corner’s ending part, climbing a jammed block, then an overhang (crux). Easier rocks lead to a stance in a little saddle below the ending wall. IV+, V, 25 m. Belay’s pegs.
L5 – From the stance head towards right, reaching the bottom of the ending wall. Climb a steep little wall, then a black crack; easier rocks lead to a shoulder below the summit.

From the shoulder scramble up to the summit.

Descent: from the top scramble down to the shoulder (cairn), then head towards Torre Artù, reaching an equipped belay under a huge block. A first abseil leads to a rocky gully; from here two abseils inside the gully and an easy scramble are leading to the basal scree.

Essential gear

Rope 2 x 50 mt., helmet, ribbons, friends 2,5 – 3, ten expresses.

The ibexes in the Dolomites and in the Marmarole Group

Inside the Alps the ibexes escaped their extinction in XIX century and saved themselves with the establishment in Western Alps at first of The Royal Hunting Reserve of Grand Paradiso in 1836 and successively, in 1922, of Gran Paradiso National Park (P.N.G.P.).
In Eastern Alps and in the Dolomites the ibexes are today present by means of the repopulations realized by the Swiss Confederation and the Gran Paradiso National Park.
In Marmarole Group lives an ibexes’ important colony whose forefathers were introduced by the Swiss Confederation.

A puppy of ibex caught nearby Torre Pian dei Buoi, Marmarole

A puppy caught close to Torre Pian dei Buoi

A group of ibexes nearby Torre Artù

Hut

Ciareido Hut at Pian dei Buoi and M. Cridola in the background

Ciareido Hut and Monte Cridola in the background

Ciareido Hut m. 1969

When to climb

Best season goes from June to the end of September

Meteo

DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
DOLOMITI METEO

CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

“Dolomiti Orientali” Vol. I Parte I by Antonio Berti – Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI-TCI

“IV grado in Dolomiti” by Emiliano Zorzi – Ed. IDEA MONTAGNA

Tabacco n. 16 (Centro Cadore) – Tabacco n. 17 (Auronzo di Cadore) 1:25.000

Images

						$The afternoon\'s last sunrays on Pian dei Buoi, Marmarole, Eastern Dolomites$
$Torre Pian dei Buoi Dal Negro route - Last pitch\'s black wall$
[ View Gallery - 5 More Images ]