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Torri del Vajolet / Vajolet Towers
Mountain/Rock

Torri del Vajolet / Vajolet Towers

 
Torri del Vajolet / Vajolet Towers

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: South Tirol / Alto Adige / Trentino, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.46150°N / 11.62840°E

Object Title: Torri del Vajolet / Vajolet Towers

Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Via Ferrata

Season: Summer

Elevation: 9229 ft / 2813 m

 

Page By: Gangolf Haub, Lupino

Created/Edited: Apr 17, 2002 / Sep 24, 2008

Object ID: 150951

Hits: 29477 

Page Score: 93.35%  - 42 Votes 

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Overview

Being part of the Catinaccio / Rosengarten group the Torri del Vajolet / Vaiolet towers are probably among the most photographed peaks in the Dolomites (just after Tre Cime di Lavaredo / Drei Zinnen). Together there are ten summits, roughly divided into two subgroups. The six northern ones are rather massive while the four southern ones are fine needlelike spires.

Their beauty and the fact that a very popular ferrata (Ferrata Santner) leads close to their base attracts thousands of tourists each year as well as a lot of serious climbers again making the Vaiolet towers the most climbed peaks in the Dolomites. This is partly due to the fact that - unlike Tre Cime - the normal routes are relatively "easy", mostly in the IV-range. Additionally they are heavily bolted - which is especially true for Delago and Stabeler Towers, the westernmost and the central of the four southern ones.

Rosengarten Peak (2981m) and...
Rosengarten Peak (2981m) and Vaiolet Towers (2813m) seen from Passo Principe



Northern Towers (from north to south)
  • Torre del Passo, 2660m (west)
  • Torre Marcia, 2550m (east)
  • Torre Estrema, 2710m
  • North Tower, 2810m
  • Main Tower, 2821m (west)
  • East Tower, 2813m (east)



Southern Towers (described in more detail in the next section)
  • Delago Tower, 2790m(west)
  • Stabeler Tower, 2805m(center)
  • Winkler Tower, 2800m(east)
  • Piaz Tower, 2670m


Thanks to livioz for finding and providing most of the information in this section


Climbing Information Southern Vajolet Towers

Sketch of the climbing routes...
Route overview - please note, that the routes are approximate.

In contrast to the rather unknown northern Vajolet Towers the four southern ones know a lot fine routes. Most interesting - and thus most popular and crowded - is the route along the southwestern ridge (Piaz Ridge) of the westernmost Delago Tower. If you look at the signature pic you can see why. Though a relatively short climb, it is very exposed. Always keep in mind that the tops of the towers are approximately 2000m above the town of Bolzano / Bozen in the near distance.

The three large towers all have quite a number of routes in various difficulties, mostly of 120 - 150m length (mostly four pitches). The smaller Piaz Tower has two routes of each 60m length. Look at the route picture to see (most of) the approximate routes.

Piaz Tower
First Ascent: Unknown
1 - Southwest Ridge
First Ascent: Unknown
Grade V, VI
Length: 60m
2 - South Ridge
First Ascent: Unknown
Grade III


Delago Tower
First Ascent: 22.09.1895, H. Delago
3 - Southwest Ridge (Piaz Ridge)
First Ascent: 1911 - G.B. Piaz, F. Jori, I. Glaser
Grade IV+ (four pitches), IV, III
Length: 120m
4 - South Face (Via delle placche matte)
First Ascent: 1983 - T. Cavattoni, E. Cipriani
Grade V+, V
Lengh: 120m
5 - South Face (original ascent)
First Ascent: 1895 – H. Delago
Grade V-, IV, III
Length: 120m
6 - Preuß Chimney (Variant to 5)
First Ascent: 1911 - P. Preuß, M. Preuß, P. Relly
Grade IV+
Length: 120m
7 - Southeast Ridge (Via Giorgio Poire)
First Ascent: 1959 - T. Rizzi, E. Pagni
Grade VI, A2
Length: 120m

Stabeler Tower
First Ascent: 16.07.1892, H. Helversen, G. Stabeler
8 - West Face
First Ascent: 1929 - H. Steger, S. Agostini
Grade V+
Length: 120m
9 - Southwest Face (Emmerich-Route)
Frist Ascent: 1943 - E. Pircher, H. Egger, O. Eisenstecken
Grade VI-,V+,V , VI
Length: 120m
10 - South Face
First Ascent: 1908 - R. Fehrmann, O.P. Smith
Grade IV+, IV, IV-, III
Length: 120m
There are some 5 variations to this route
11 - Southeast Ridge (Normal Route, First Ascent)
First Ascent: 1892 - G. Stabeler, H. Helversen
Grade III, II
Length: 150m
12 - Southeast Ridge (Spigolo dei Friulani)
First Ascent: 1960 - G. Romarin, E. Vuerich
Grade IV, A2, V
Length: 120m

Winkler Tower
First Ascent: 17.09.1887, G. Winkler
13 - South-Southeast Face (Winklerriß)
First Ascent: 1887 - G. Winkler
Grade IV+, IV-, III, II
Length: 110m
14 - South Face
First Ascent: 1929 - H. Steger, P. Wiesinger, F. Masè-Dari, A. Paluselli
Grade IV, V+, V
Length 110m
15 - Southeast Gully
First Ascent: 1949 - E. Bertoldi, S. Sepp
Grade VI, A0
Length: 100m


Getting There

The Vajolet Towers can be reached from both sides of the Catinaccio / Rosengarten Group. The eastern side is the more convenient since you can hike or drive (by taxi jeep) up the Vajolet Valley to Rifugio Gardeccia which is the best starting point for any exploration of the group

Eastern Trailhead: Gardeccia
Take the Brenner Motorway A22 up to the exit of Bolzano Nord/Bozen Nord. By the road S.P.241 drive along Val d'Ega/Eggental till Pera, place between Pozzo di Fassa and Mazzin. Pera can be reached also by the S.S.48, taken from the Brenner Motorway A22 exit Ora/Auer. At Pera the road into the Vajolet Valley turns off to the left (west). Access is restricted. You either have to hike or take one of the taxi jeeps at Mazzin that will get you to Rifugio Gardeccia.

From Gardeccia take the Vajolet Valley upwards to Rifugio Preuss and Rifugio Vajolet. Here the steep ascent to Gartl at the base of the Vajolet Towers starts. The scramble is quite demanding but never exceeds grade I (iron ropes help the ascent).

Western Trailhead: Rosengartenhütte / Rifugio Aleardo Fronza
Again take the Brenner Motorway, but this time a little furthe until the exit Prato / Blumau. Here get on SP65 and get all the way up to Nigerpass / Passo Nigra. Some 2km after the pass at Frommer Alm there is a lift to Rosengartenhütte. The starting point is reached also by SP241 (Mortorway Brenner exit Bolzano/Bozen Nord). Before Passo Costalung/Karer Pass the road turns left towards Passo Nigra/Niger Pass. Few hundredsa meters before is Malga Freommer/Frommer Alm. From here take the chairlift to Rifugio Fronza and then the Ferrata Santner to Santner Pass where you get the first glimpses of the southern Vajolet Towers. As stated above the eastern trailhead is to be preferred but if you want to visit the area without climbing the towers this western approach is surely the most beautiful.

Red Tape

The route from Pera to Gardeccia is always closed. Take one of the taxis or hike up to Gardeccia. Otherwise there are no restrictions that apply.

When To Climb

Again, like with all Dolomite summits June through September are the best months. In some years May might already be feasable and October as well. Always remember that in Italy August is the general vacation month. The region will be very crowded. You might have to queue up to do your pitches on the Delago Edge.
 
Torri del Vajolet
Sunset on the Vajolet towers


In early summer sometimes part of the Ferrata Santner is still covered with ice. It can get quite difficult and dangerous. The same holds true for the steep scrambling ascent along the Gola delle Torri towards Gartl. This trail is located directly to the north of the mighty Rosengartenspitze / Catinaccio and never gets much sunshine.

Mountain Huts and refuges

The following mountain huts / refuges can be found in the Catinaccio / Rosengarten Group. The refuges are (roughly) sorted by their proximity to the base of the Vajolet Towers. In the most crowded months (July and August) booking your bed in the refuge is highly recommended, mainly in the week-ends. Furthermore, as in many other area in Dolomite, groups (for example belonging to climbing courses) usually spend few days in the refuge (such as Rifugio Re Alberto) at the base of their targets, so that is preferable to check in advance the bed availability.

Rifugio/HutHeightOpenTel.
Re Alberto I / Gartlhütte2620mmid June - end Sept.+39 0462 763428
Passo Santner / Santner Pass Hütte2734mrebuilding in progress+39 0471 642230
Aleardo Fronza / Rosengartenhütte2337mmid June - mid Sept.+39 0462 764461
Vajolet2243mmid June - mid Sept.+39 0462 763292
Preuss2243mmid June - end Sept.+39 0462 764847
Gardeccia 1963mmid June - mid Oct.+39 0462 763152
Ciampedie1998mbeg. June - mid Oct.+39 0462 764432
Negritella1990mmid June - mid Sept.+39 0462 764097
Stella Alpina1963mJune - Oct.+39 0462 764388
Roda di Vael / Rotwandhütte2280mmid June - mid Sept.+39 0462 764450
Catinacciao1960mend May - end Sept.+39 0462 766987
Passo Principe / Grasleitenpasshütte2599mend June - end Sept.+39 0462 764244
Bergamo al Principe / Grasleitenhütte1887mnot available+39 0471 642103
Antermoia2476mmid June - mid Sept.+39 0462 750480

Accommodation

Depending on the side from which you start your exploration of Catinaccio / Rosengarten and the Vajolet Towers you can easily find hotels and apartments at Val di Fassa (east) or Eggental (west). Keep in mind that over the summer accomodation is rather hard to find in this area - most of us who have been there consider it the most beautiful area of the world.

You can get the neccessary info on both sides of Catinaccio Rosengarten from the following web sites (both only in Italian and German):

- Val di Fassa.it
- Val di Fassa.com
- Eggental

Tourist Informations

If web sites aren't enough for you and you want to do it the oldfashioned way, here are the addresses of various villages on both sides of Catinaccio / Rosengarten:

Val di Fassa:
CanazeiPiaz Marconi538032 Canazei (TN)Tel. +39 0462 601113 Fax +39 0462 602502e-mail: infocanazei@fassa.com
Alba di CanazeiStrèda de Costa, 25838030 Alba di Canazei (TN)Tel.+39 0462 601354Fax +39 0462 601354e-mail: infoalba@fassa.com
Campitello di FassaVia Dolomiti 4638031 Campitello (TN)Tel. +39 0462 750500Fax +39 0462 750219e-mail: infocampitello@fassa.com
Mazzin di FassaVia Dolomiti38030 Mazzin (TN)Tel. +39 0462 767196Fax +39 0462 757200e-mail: infomazzin@fassa.com
Pozza di FassaPiazza Municipio 138036 Pozza di Fassa (TN)Tel. +39 0462 764136Fax +39 0462 763717e-mail: infopozza@fassa.com
Vigo di FassaVia Roma 1838039 Vigo di Fassa (TN)Tel. +39 0462 764093Fax +39 0462 764877e-mail: infovigo@fassa.com
SoragaStradoun de Fascia38030 Soraga (TN)Tel. +39 0462 768114Fax +39 0462 758214e-mail: infosoraga@fassa.com
MoenaPiazza C. Battisti 3338035 Moena (TN)Tel. +39 0462 573122Fax +39 0462 574342e-mail: infomoena@fassa.com
Eggental:
Deutschnofen.39050 DeutschnofenTel.: +39 0471 616567Fax: +39 0471 616727E-mail: info@eggental.com
Obereggen.39050 ObereggenTel.: +39 0471 615795Fax: +39 0471 615848E-mail: obereggen@eggental.com

Camping

You can find the following campgrounds in Val di Fassa:

Marmolada
via Pareda
Canazei
Tel.: +39 0462.601660
Fax: +39 0462.601722

Catinaccio
via Avisio 15
Pozza di Fassa
Tel.: +39 0462.763305
Fax: +39 0462.763501

Soal
via Dolomiti 32
Pera di Fassa
Tel.: +39 0462.764519
Fax: +39 0462.764609

Vidor
Località Vidor
Pozza di Fassa
Tel.: +39 0462.763247
Fax: +39 0462.764780

If you ask the refuge owners you most of the time are allowed to camp outside, especially in summer when the refuges are overcrowded.

Mountain Conditions

Weather and avalanche conditions in Trentino: www.meteotrentino.it

Weather conditions in South Tyrol: www.meteoalpin.com. For the English text you have to scroll down the right frame.

Maps 'n' Books

Again I am having trouble naming books in other languages than German. I welcome any helpful addition.

Books:

Climbing
Classic Dolomite Climbs: 102 High Quality Rock-Climbs Between the Uiaa Grades III and VII
Anette Kohler, Norbert Memmel
Mountaineers Books
ISBN: 0 8988 6693 6

Vie Ferrate
Klettersteige Dolomiten
H. Höfler, P. Werner
Rother Verlag
ISBN: 3 7633 3096 8

Hülslers Klettersteigführer
E.E.Hülsler
Bruckmann Verlag
ISBN: 3 7654 4161 9

Hiking and Trecking
Höhenwege in den Dolomiten
H. Dumler
Bruckmann Verlag
ISBN: 3 7654 3860 X

Dolomiten 2
F. Hauleitner
Rother Verlag
ISBN: 3 7633 4059 9

Gruppo del Catinaccio (also in German: Rosengarten (1987))
Luca Visentini
Ed.Athesia, Bolzano/Bozen (1979)
ISBN - 8 8701 4126 8


Maps
I have been using the maps by Kompass Verlag:

Sellagruppe / Gruppo di Sella
1:50000
Kompass Map WK 59
ISBN: 3 8549 1066 5

Rosengarten - Schlern / Catinaccio - Sciliar
1:25000
Kompass Map WK 628
ISBN: 3 8549 1746 5

Val di Fassa e Dolomiti Fassane
1:25000
Foglio/Blatt 06
Tabacco

Images