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Wolowa Turnia - Volia Veza
Mountain/Rock

Wolowa Turnia - Volia Veza

 
Wolowa Turnia - Volia Veza

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Slovakia, Europe

Object Title: Wolowa Turnia - Volia Veza

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Summer, Fall

Elevation: 7785 ft / 2373 m

 

Page By: KRZYS

Created/Edited: Aug 19, 2013 / Sep 2, 2013

Object ID: 862545

Hits: 536 

Page Score: 78.16%  - 10 Votes 

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Overview

The summit in main High Tatra Mountains ridge, belong to Wolowy Grzbiet (Volí chrbát), located on the Polish -Slovakian border, between Zabia Turnia Mieguszowiecka (Žabia veža mengusovská) and Hinczowa Turnia (Hincova veža).
First ascent by Katherine Broske and Simon Haberlain 11.09.1905
Winter by Alfred Grosz 05.04.1913
Initial period of Wolowa Turnia's faces exploration was dominated by Polish Climbers. In august 1927 J. Chmielowski, A. Ferens i M. Świerz make a first ascent of south pillar.
Later Stanislawski take the initiative - firstly climbing the north face, in lower part by chimney separating the wall from the right side, with using a piton, in september 1929 - and secondly the south
face, climbing with Staszel by huge central chimney and then left side of slabs to the summit, connecting with the predecessor's line 70m before the top.
Name of the mountain ('Beef crag') is indirectly associated with shepherd activities in Dolina Mięguszowiecka.
Initially, the whole ridge closing Zabia Dol. Mięguszowiecką was called Wolowiec Mieguszowiecki.
The name Wolowa Turnia in written sources has appeared in 1902.

Volia ve~a (2370 m)
South view of Volia veza (2370 m) by Tomas Kristofory






The south face of Volia Veza is main theme of Slovakian High Tatra Mountains Climbing Guide cover (western part).

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Cover

The wall is the most impressing monolith over the Mieguszowiecka Dolina while looking from Strbske Pleso.

Getting There

Horsky Hotel Popradske Pleso:
To get into parking and train stop into lowest part of Mengusovská you have possibilities: by car (from Droga Wonosci (Cesta Slabody, Route of freedom) turn on marked bend 1 km before Strbske Pleso). 4 euro for parking. Second option is using the Elektricka, famous Tatra Mountain train-tram, you should exit at Popradske Pleso stop.
Mountain Hotel Popradske Pleso is located 45 min on foot from train stop. It's one for the most beautiful hut in Tatra Mountains.
Mountain Hotel Popradske Pleso on summitpost
Mountain Hotel Popradske...
Mountain Hotel Popradske Pleso by Equus



Schronisko przy Morskim Oko
Buses from Zakopane gives an efficient journey to Palenica Białczańska (direction to Lysa Polana, and turning right before the border), there are also lot of car parking places (about 20zl per day). From Palenica red trial by 9 km, closed for cars, overcrowed), old asphalt route. It takes 2 h, (down 1:30 h) to the hut. Cost about 37-47 PLN for night.  Phone number(0-18)207760

Route

South face offers one of the best quality of climbing among the High Tatra's walls.
You could leave your backpack on the Ramp under the face.

Approach - from Popradske Pleso by red marked (Rysy and Chata pod Rysami direction) trial, which we leave under the last steeper part of approach before the Wielki Zabi Staw Mieguszowiecki. 1h
Then turn left by the dwarf mountain pine - tread out path and cairns - by huge rock blocks to pretty Wyzni Zabi Staw Mieguszowiecki (some swimming before or after the climb during hot day?) and to the grassy ramp over the South Face. (45min)

South Pillar(III) - course route with obligatory difficulties III, starting at right part of the Ramp, ready stances, 2 hours of climbing, good for beginner mountain climbers. J. Chmielowski, A. Ferens, M. Šwierz21.8.1927

Staflovka (V) - classic exposed route with amazing rock quality, ready stances, easy passage between seriously looking overhangs, cool slabs, 2h30min. Starts on the right from Stanislawski route. V.Štáflová, K.Čabelka, J.Šabata 9.7.1935
a)direct variant (VI) - watchfully climb to the second stance, starts on the left from original route, slabs. 2h30min

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Janiga (left route) and Staflovka (right)
Volia veža
Volia veža (2373 m), Žabia veža (2335 m) and Žabí koň (2291 m) by Gorzi


Stanislawski (V) - nice chimney climb, evident start, recommend as alternative fast descent by rappels from the summit (all rappels in the line of chimney - so the first one by Puskas route). Anyway we've chosen descent by ridge and gully, both options are fast and gives chance to do more than one route a day. W. Stanislawski, J. Staszel 9.8.1931

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By tatry.nfo.sk


The north face is opposite to the south: higher - 400m- with poor rock quality and demanding approach. It makes this wall climbed only by few teams per year.
Old date climbers remains that some time ago, going out from Morskie Oko they were able to climb both faces in one day...

Descent
a) rappels by Puskas and Stanislawski route
b) walk down 15 m by the ridge in Rysy direction to the gully and about 150m down to the Ramp
c) rappels by your climbing route with ready stances
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http://www.dozentwajda.com/ - descents from Volia Veza and ZTM

Red Tape

According to TANAP rules to climb unmarked routes you have to be a member of alpine club which belong to UIAA (routes grade: summer III<; winter I< ).
Unlike Polish Tatras, on Slovakian side you should have an insurance in the event of HZS rescue action.

The ramp under south face
Looking down at Zabie Stawy
Descent from Volia veza / High Tatra by
Descent from Volia veza by Martina Marmoška

When to Climb

Summer season is recommendable for multi-pitch routes on south and north face, ridge is available during whole year depending on skills.
Mieguszowiecka Dolina is a great place for ski touring in winter, but in respect of ice climbing doesn't equal to neighbouring valleys.
Mengusovská dolina
Mengusovská dolina Valley as seen from Štbrské Pleso. By Gorzi


Camping

Slovakian side - Horsky Hotel Popradske Pleso (45min from Strbske Pleso)
Polish Side - Schronisko przy Morskim Oku (2h from Palenica Bialczanska).
Camping near the Zabie lakes under the Volia Veza between the rocks is illegal option but worth of consideration. Take your rubbish down. Watch out at legendary Wachter's ghost (Hungarian alpinist died during climbing the Zabi Kon).
Volia veža
Rohatý hrebeň and Volia veža (2355 m).

External Links and mountain conditions

HZS -Weather forecast and avalanche danger, Slovak Mountain Rescue website

Summit of Volia Veza
The summit of Wolowa Turnia
TOPR -Polish Mountain Rescue website
High Tatra's webcams
Internet Climbing Guide
Forecast
(yr.no)
Weather forecast for Rysy


All used topo come from the free internet mountain guides and sites which promote climbing in High Tatras, posted with the links to the source.

Images

The south faceSummit of Volia VezaThe ramp under south face