Drive up the mountain for 1.4 miles to the third pull out on the north side of the mountain. Park at the third pullout and walk down 20 yards (east) to the end of the guardrail where a trail will begin left through the rocks. Follow the climbers trail down to the top of the crag. At the top of the crag, you can either rap High Anxiety (two anchors, 80 ft) or you can go left (west) and scramble down and around to the bottom.
Follow the crack to rocky (easier) terrain near the top. At the top, belay at a large boulder or lower among the rocks. You will have to make your own anchor via long slings or medium cams. The placement stances near the bottom are kind of balancy. The crack protects very well and takes small to medium cams and stoppers. 80 feet.
Birthday Boy: Route #1 (Click photo to enlarge)
One 60 meter rope. Small to medium cams. Set of Stoppers. A couple of short runners plus a long (20 ft) runner for anchor at the top. Helmet.
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