Mr. Clean

Page Type: Route
Lat/Lon: 34.74470°N / 98.5317°W
Route Type: Technical Rock Climb (Traditional)
Time Required: Less than two hours
Difficulty: 5.8+


Drive up the mountain for 1.4 miles to the third pull out on the north side of the mountain. Park at the third pullout and walk down 20 yards (east) to the end of the guardrail where a trail will begin left through the rocks. Follow the climbers trail down to the top of the crag. At the top of the crag, you can either rap High Anxiety (two anchors, 60 ft) or you can go left (west) and scramble down and around to the bottom. Mr. Clean is located about 75 feet to the left of Birthday Boy in the obvious dihedral

Route Description

This is one of the best routes of it's grade in the Wichitas.

Follow the dihedral/crack straight up using face and stemming moves. At the little roof at the top, avoid the desire to follow the crack on the left. Instead, use the crack to the left as a lay-back hold and go directly over to the top of the roof. A #4 Camalot can be placed below the roof. But, once committed to the lay-back and roof, don't attempt to stop and place. It's better to run it out and complete the roof in one series of moves. Finish at a nice ledge. 80 ft. First Ascent: Eric Forney.

(Click photo to enlarge)

Essential Gear

One 60 meter rope. Small to medium cams. Set of stoppers. Two 20-foot runners if setting up a top rope. Helmet.

Miscellaneous Info

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