Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 45.44792°N / 7.27800°E
Additional Information County: Piedmont
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Bouldering, Aid Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Getting There

 

Traditional House near Ceresole Reale
Traditional House near Ceresole Reale

The closest inhabited centre is Ceresole Reale (km. 35 from Pont Canavese), in the high Valle dell'Orco, m. 1613, a nice village lying near the great artificial lake of Ceresole. 

 

Road access

- From Torino (Caselle international airport) reach Courgnè and Pont Canavese m. 461; from here follow the road entering Valle dell’Orco, reaching Locana, Rosone, Noasca. In Noasca drive up to Ceresole Reale, after the road bends enter the tunnel which about half way presents an exit towards the old road (on the left going up). Exit at the hole and park the car. 

- From Aosta take the Aosta-Torino motorway, exit Ivrea. From Ivrea follow the road towards Ciriè, reaching Pont Canavese. From here same access as the previous one.

Walking access

Parked the car, find a steep path with some cairns leading to the base of the wall.

Caporal main routes

The left end of the wall is characterized from a very smooth overhanging slab, Proceeding rightward it follows an enormous dihedral, the Diedro Nanchez, one of the most famous structures, often wet. The central part of the Caporal, facing South, is certainly the most majestic sector. It is a smooth wall, engraved with thin cracks, the Scudo (the Shield), where we find the majority of the climbing routes.

The main routes starting from left to right:

Climbing on Caporal
Climbing on Caporal

Diedro Nanchez   6b (5a obbl), 160 m - Laura Trentaz, Roberto Bonelli, Danilo Galante, Gian Piero Motti, Piero Pessa 1974
- Tomahawk Dance  7c (7a obbl), 270 m - Massimo Farina, Ezio Marlier 2004
- Aquila della Notte  7b (6c obbl.), 175 m - Massimo Ala, Ugo Manera, Maurizio Oviglia 1998
- Colpo al cuore  8a (7a/A1), 230 m - Gabriele Bar, Claudio Bernardi 1992
- Bat  A3, 250 m - Valerio Folco, Massimo Farina 2002
- Strapiombi delle visioni  7b (5c/A0), 160 m - Danilo Galante, Gian Carlo Grassi 1974
- Tempi Duri  6c (5c/A2), 160 m - Alessandro Gogna, Leo Cerruti 1973
Sole Nascente  7b (6a+/A2), 205 m - Gian Carlo Grassi, Mike Kosterlitz, Gian Piero Motti 1973 
Il lungo cammino dei Comanches  7b+ (6a+/A2), 205 m - Danilo Galante, Andrea Gobetti, Gian Carlo Grassi, Guido Morello, Gian Piero Motti, Piero Pessa 1974
- Mangas Coloradas  7a+ (5c/A2+), 140 m - Daniele Caneparo, Maurizio Oviglia 1984
Via dei Tempi Moderni 6c+ (5c obbl.), 230 m - Flavio Leone, Ugo Manera, Guido Morello, Gian Piero Motti 1972
- Rattle Snake  6c (6a obbl), 180 m - Massimo Ala, Bruno Fabretto, Franco Salino 1982
Itaca nel Sole  8b (5a/A2), 200 m - Gian Piero Motti, Guido Morello 1975
- Orecchio del Pachiderma  6b (5a/A0) - Gabriele Bdeuchod, Roberto Bonelli, Luca Mozzati 1979
- Via dei Camini  6b (5a/A0), 200 m - Ugo Manera, Piero Pessa 1972
- Tapis Roulant  7a+ and A0, 200 m - E. Binsack, Claude and Yves Remy 1990
- Terra di Mezzo  5c/A3, 200 m - Vlerio Folco, Cristina Gaggini 2005
- Quel nuovo mattino  6b/A3+, 280 m - A. Riva, G. Vistarini, G. Berardino, D. Clerici 1996
- Aerospike  6b/A5, 200 m - Valerio Folco, Antonio Pozzi, Japoco Bufacchi, Stefano Bigio 2000
- Via della Rivoluzione  7c+ (6a+/A2+), 150 m - Gian Piero Motti, Ugo Manera 1973
- Crazy Horse   6c/A2, 150 m - E. Cavallo and Co.
- Il sogno di Jack  6a/A4, 200 m - R. Buccella, J. Bufacchi, Valerio Folco 1997-1998
- Via Spigolo SE  6b (5a/A1), 200 m - Flavio Leone, Ugo Manera 1973 

Descent: the descent is done abseiling along the routes "Rattle Snake", "Diedro Nanchez", "Via della Rivoluzione" and "Crazy Horse".

 

 

History

The Balma fiorant rocky complex was discovered in 1972 by Ugo Manera and Gian Piero Motti. The first route was opened right on Caporal, which was therefore the first rock structure of Balma Fiorant to be explored. The route was called "Tempi Moderni".

Caporal, Tempi Moderni - Upper pitches
Caporal, Tempi Moderni - Upper pitches
Itaca al Sole, Caporal
Itaca al Sole, Caporal

Red Tape

P.N.G.P. - Gran Paradiso National Park logo

 

 

No permits, no fees and no particulary restrictions in climbing. The mountain is located inside Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, established in 1922, one of most important National Parks in Italy. You should take care of nature as usual within the boundaries of all the natural parks. Free camping is not allowed and fires are strictly forbidden. The whole fauna and flora are protected. Don’t disturb fauna and other mountaineers’ peacefulness with every kind of noise.

When to Climb

The best period goes from May to October

Where to stay

Different possibilities of accomodation in Comune di Ceresole Reale:

- Hotels
- Huts
- Campings

Meteo

Meteo Regione Piemonte
Meteo Alpi

Guidebooks

Gran Paradiso Climbing Guidebook
Gran Paradiso Climbing Guidebook
Valle dell'Orco guidebook
Valle dell'Orco guidebook

"Valle dell'Orco" by Maurizio Oviglia - Collana Luoghi Verticali, Ed. Versante Sud 2010

“Rock Paradise – Arrampicate classiche, moderne e sportive nelle valli del Gran Paradiso” by Maurizio Oviglia – Collana Luoghi Verticali, Ed. Versante Sud

External Links

Parco Nazionale Gran Paradiso



Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.