Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione

Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 45.50040°N / 7.33390°E
Additional Information County: Piemonte
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Elevation: 11024 ft / 3360 m
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Overview

Geographical classification: Western Alps > Graie Alps > Gran Paradiso Group > Gran Paradiso Group Southern Sector > Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione

Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione 3360 m

The Piantonetto Valley, a tributary of Orco Valley, is one of the best known sites in the Southern side of Gran Paradiso Group, a range actually mainly famous for its Northern high and icy mountains. In its Southern side the massif hides another wonderful kingdom, less known, made of steep granite walls and beautiful hard rock climbs, both classic and modern. In the middle of the rocky heart of Gran Paradiso, the Piantonetto Valley, we can find a veritable pearl, the magnificent peak of Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione.

 

Becco meridionale della...
Becco meridionale della...
Becco meridionale della...
Becco meridionale della...

 

It's the Southernmost mountain belonging to to a group of three ones, Becco Settentrionale, Becco Centrale and Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione; it's the finest mountain amongst these ones and probably the most beautiful rocky summit of Gran Paradiso group, together with Becco di Valsoera. This peak has an unmistakable trapezium shape and it's quite famous in reason of its stunning South-East face, dropping up to 500 m. The steepest section is a 250 m. high wall, showing wonderful corners and cracks, rising on a 250 m. high sloping pedestal. The rock is a gneiss of excellent quality, greenish coloured in the lower section, reddish in the steep upper wall. This peculiarity emphasizes the sudden change of inclination of the face.

Winter scenery in high Piantonetto - Becco Meridionale on the left

Winter scenery in high Piantonetto - Becco Meridionale on the left

Getting There

The starting point to climb is the Teleccio Lake, at the end of Valle del Piantonetto, a tributary of Valle dell'Orco.

Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione map

 

Road access

- From Turin reach Courgnè and Pont Canavese m. 461; from here follow Orco Valley as far as Rosone m. 715 (Km. 16,5 from Pont Canavese). A few hundred meters after Rosone leave the main road and follow on the right-hand side (road marks Piantonetto-Rifugio Pontese) the narrow road rising along the Piantonetto Valley and reaching the Teleccio artificial Lake m.1917. Dam. Parking.

- From France and Switzerland reach Aosta, then follow the Monte Bianco motorway towards South, exit Ivrea. From Ivrea follow the road to Ciriè and Pont Canavese.

 

Piantonetto
High Piantonetto

Walking approach

The approach to the Becco is rather long and with a considerable difference in height. It is possible to stay overnight at the Rifugio Pontese and reach the wall from the shelter, reducing the approach even if not by much. From the large parking lot at the end of the road near the Teleccio Lake there are two possibilities:

- direct approach - cross the dam and take a path that runs along the left shore of the lake and then start to rise through rocky ground and meadows (cairns and red smarks, path sometimes not much obvious). - go up to the Rifugio Pontese - Follow the flat dirt road running along the right shore of the lake, then a steep path rising quickly to the Rifugio Pontese m. 2200 (45 minutes from the parking), guarded in summer.  Take the path at the back of the shelter that descends slightly to the left and crosses the stream on a wooden bridge. Continue along a well-trodden path (red-white signs and cairns), finally reaching a scree rising up on the left. Follow the scree and before starting to climb towards the Colle dei Becchi (on the left of the Becco della Tribolazione)  deviate decisively to the right, crossing the blocks, from where you go up towards the SE wall. 

History

Becco della Tribolazione seen...
Becco della Tribolazione seen...

First ascent: L. Vaccarone, A. Castagneri and A. Bogiatto 14 June 1875 climbing the South-South-West ridge and SW wall

Routes overview

Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione topo routes
A Pin Up - B Motto-Sartore - C Grassi-Re - D Diamante Pazzo - E Malvassora - F Macchetto - G Conto fino a zero

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All the routes of Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione (French Scale)

South-east wall, from left:

- 1- Pin-Up TD 6a+ max, 5c obbl., 480 m. - M. Motto and V. Sartore 1996 equipped with bolts

2- Bicentenario Gasp D 5a max., 350 m. - D. Caneparo and D. Ricchitelli 1986 Nuts and friends necessary

- 3- Motto-Sartore - ED 7a+ max, 6b+ obbl. 190 m - M. Motto and R. Sartore in 7-9-1996 The route is equipped with few bolts and pitons, nuts and friends are necessary

- 4- Nostradamus - TD+ 6c/A1 max or 5c/A2, 250 m - A. Giorda and M. Oliengo in 1982) The route is not equipped. Pitons, nuts and friends necessary

- 5- Via Grassi-Re - TD 6a max, 250 m - G.C. Grassi and A. Re in 6-10-1968 Partially equipped with some pitons, nuts and friends are necessary

- 6- Diamante Pazzo TD+, 6a+ max, 6a obbl., 250 m - R. Sartore and R. Perrucca in 1984) Equipped with rare pitons, nuts and friends necessary

- 7- Via Malvassora D, 4c max, 300 m. P. Malvassora and A. Garzini 29-6-1951 Pitons in place, eventually some nuts are useful

- 8- Via Macchetto TD, 5c max, A1, 250 m - G. Macchetto, G. Re and B. Taiana in 1965 Equipped with pitons, nuts and friends are useful 

- 9- Conto fino a zero ED, 6b+ max, 6a+ obbl., 250 m - M. Motto and R. Sartore in 1997 Belays equipped with bolts, 2 pitons on the pitches, nuts and big friends necessary. 

- 10- Via dell'Angelo D, 6b max or 5c/A1, 250 m - M. Bertotti and N. Valerio in 1975 Equipped with pitons, nuts and friends necessary.

Belaying on Pin Up, Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione
Belaying on Pin Up
Superb granite on Grassi-Re, Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione
Superb granite on the route Grassi-Re

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other routes - SSE Ridge and SSW Ridge  Gambotto-Piazza 4b max, The route is running between Pin Up and Bicentenario GASP

- SE wall and ESE ridge  Ottin Pecchio-Pelia The route is running on the right of Via dell'Angelo

A fine classic traditional route is the "Becchi complete traverse from N to S" - D+, 4c - E. Peyronel and L. Prato 1955

Descent - most of the routes on the SE wall are equipped for abseils - The best descent is done along the Normal route (SW wall) with some equipped abseils and downclimbing on the easiest sections 

Normal Route

The Normal route runs along the SSW ridge and the SW wall  - PD, II UIAA with some moves of III

It's the itinerary of the first summiters of the tower - L. Vaccarone, A. Castagneri and A. Boggiatto 1875
The route starts from Colletto dei Becchi. The climb is on solid rock, fun and not difficult.  At times it follows the SW ridge and sometimes the W side along ledges, short dihedral and chimneys.  The approach is the same as for the routes on the SE wall. Once you reach the base of the mountain climb up the steep slope on the left of the tower to reach the Colletto dei Becchi where the climbing begins.

When To Climb

The best period to climb the peak goes from middle June to middle September. The sun remains on the wall till middle afternoon.

Huts

Foggy sunset over impressive walls near Pontese Hut
Foggy sunset over impressive walls near Pontese Hut
Gran Paradiso GROUP: Rifugio...
Gran Paradiso GROUP: Rifugio...

 

Rifugio Pontese at Pian delle Muande 2200 m (guarded by “Gran Paradiso Friends” Association) open in summer (40 minutes from Lago Teleccio) - Hut phone +390124800186 Other accomodation in Valle dell'Orco Different Kinds of accomodation can be found in Valle dell'Orco. The only existing equipped camping is located in Ceresole Reale in the upper valley. In Noasca, the village located near the Piantonetto road, it’s possible to find some accomodations in the Ostello and Hotels.

Red Tape

P.N.G.P. - Gran Paradiso National Park logo

There are no fees or permits needed to climb Becco Meridinale della Tribolazione. The peak is located inside Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, established in 1922, one of most important National Parks in Italy. You should take care of nature as usual within the boundaries of all the natural parks. Free camping is not allowed and fires are strictly forbidden. The whole fauna and flora are protected. Don’t disturb fauna and other mountaineering and hikers’ peacefulness with every kind of noise.

Male of Ibex (Gran Paradiso National Park)
Male of Ibex (Gran Paradiso National Park)
Flora of PNGP (Gran Paradiso National Park): Gentiana Verna
Flora of PNGP (Gran Paradiso National Park): Gentiana Verna

Meteo and Mountain Conditions

Meteo Regione Piemonte Meteo Alpi

Guidebooks and Maps

Gran Paradiso Climbing Guidebook
Gran Paradiso and Valli di Lanzo guidebook
Gran Paradiso
Gran Paradiso map 1.25.000

"Rock Paradise – Classic, modern and sportive climbing in Gran Paradiso valleys” by Maurizio Oviglia Ed. Versante Sud 2000 - The best for the new and classic rock climbs

“Gran Paradiso e Valli di Lanzo - Le cento più belle ascensioni" Gian Carlo Grassi – Ed. Zanichelli 1982 - The best for classic routes on ice and rock

"Gran Paradiso” by E. Andreis, R. Chabod and M.C. Santi Guide dei Monti d’Italia TCI-CAI 

“Gran Paradiso - La Grivola - Cogne” – IGC 101 1:25.000

"Il Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso" - IGC 3 1:50.000



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