The Piantonetto Valley, a tributary of Orco Valley, is one of the best known sites in the Southern side of Gran Paradiso Group, a range actually mainly famous for its Northern high and icy mountains. In its Southern side the massif hides another wonderful kingdom, less known, madeof steep granite walls and beautiful hard rock climbs, both classic and modern.
In the middle of the rocky heart of Gran Paradiso, the Piantonetto Valley, we can find a veritable pearl, the magnificent peak of Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione.
It's the Southernmost mountain belonging to to a group of three ones, Becco Settentrionale, Becco Centrale and Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione; it's the finest mountain amongst these ones and probably the most beautiful rockysummit of Gran Paradiso group, together with Becco di Valsoera.
This peak has an unmistakable trapezium shape and it's quite famous in reason of its stunning South-East face, dropping up to 500 m. The steepest section is a 250 m. high wall, showing wonderful corners and cracks, rising on a 250 m. high sloping pedestal. The rock is a gneiss of excellent quality, greenish coloured in the lower section, reddish in the steep upper wall. This peculiarity emphasizes the sudden change of inclination of the face.
Winter scenery in high Piantonetto - Becco Meridionale on the left
The starting point to climb is the Teleccio Lake, at the end of Valle del Piantonetto, a tributary of Valle dell'Orco.
- From Turin reach Courgnè and Pont Canavese m. 461; from here follow OrcoValley as far as Rosone m. 715 (Km. 16,5 from Pont Canavese). A few hundred meters after Rosone leave the main road and follow on the right-hand side (road marks Piantonetto-Rifugio Pontese) the narrow road rising along the Piantonetto Valley and reaching the Teleccio artificial Lake m.1917. Dam. Parking.
- From France and Switzerland reach Aosta, then follow the Monte Bianco motorway towards South, exit Ivrea. From Ivrea follow the road to Ciriè and Pont Canavese.
Walking approach to Rifugio Pontese
From Teleccio Lake m. 1870 (Dam, artificial lake) follow the road running along the right shore of the lake, then a steep path rising quickly to Pontese Hut m. 2200 (45 minutes from the parking), guarded in summer.
First ascent: L. Vaccarone, A. Castagneri and A. Bogiatto 14 June 1875 climbing the South-South-West ridge and SW wall
A Pin Up - B Motto-Sartore - C Grassi-Re - D Diamante Pazzo - E Malvassora - F Macchetto - G Conto fino a zero - ph.AlbertoRampini
All the routes of Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione (French Scale)
South-east wall, from left:
- 1- Pin-Up TD 6a+ max, 5c obbl., 480 m. - M. Motto and V. Sartore 1996 equipped with bolts
- 2- Bicentenario Gasp D 5a max., 350 m. - D. Caneparo and D. Ricchitelli 1986 Nuts and friends necessary
- 3- Motto-Sartore - ED 7a+ max, 6b+ obbl. 190 m - M. Motto and R. Sartore in 7-9-1996 The route is equipped with few bolts and pitons, nuts and friends are necessary
- 4- Nostradamus - TD+ 6c/A1 max or 5c/A2, 250 m - A. Giorda and M. Oliengo in 1982) The route is not equipped. Pitons, nuts and friends necessary - 5- Via Grassi-Re - TD 6a max, 250 m - G.C. Grassi and A. Re in 6-10-1968 Partially equipped with some pitons, nuts and friends are necessary
- 6- Diamante Pazzo TD+, 6a+ max, 6a obbl., 250 m - R. Sartore and R. Perrucca in 1984) Equipped with rare pitons, nuts and friends necessary
- 7- Via Malvassora D, 4c max, 300 m. P. Malvassora and A. Garzini 29-6-1951 Pitons in place, eventually some nuts are useful
- 8- Via Macchetto TD, 5c max, A1, 250 m - G. Macchetto, G. Re and B. Taiana in 1965 Equipped with pitons, nuts and friends are useful
- 9- Conto fino a zero ED, 6b+ max, 6a+ obbl., 250 m - M. Motto and R. Sartore in 1997 Belays equipped with bolts, 2 pitons on the pitches, nuts and big friends necessary.
- 10- Via dell'Angelo D, 6b max or 5c/A1, 250 m - M. Bertotti and N. Valerio in 1975 Equipped with pitons, nuts and friends necessary.
Normal route is along the SSW ridge and SW wall PD, II UIAA - The first summiters 1875 - The route starts from Colletto dei Becchi
Other routes - SSE Ridge and SSW Ridge Gambotto-Piazza 4b max, The route is running between Pin Up and Bicentenario GASP - SE wall and ESE ridge Ottin Pecchio-Pelia The route is running on the right of Via dell'Angelo
A fine classic traditional route is the "Becchi complete traverse from N to S" - D+, 4c - E. Peyronel and L. Prato 1955
Descent - most of the routes are equipped for abseils - The best descent isdone along the Normal route (SW wall) - Some equipped abseils
When To Climb
The best period to climb the peak goes from middle June to middle September. The sun remains on the wall till middle afternoon.
Pontese Hut at Pian delle Muande mt. 2200 (guarded by “Gran Paradiso Friends” Association) open in summer (40 minutes from Teleccio Lake) - Hut phone +390124800186
Different Kinds of accomodation can be found in Valle dell'Orco. The only existing equipped camping is located in Ceresole Reale in the upper valley. In Noasca, the village located near the Piantonetto road, it’s possible to find some accomodations in the Ostello and Hotels.
There are no fees or permits needed to climb Becco Meridinale della Tribolazione. The peak is located inside Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, established in 1922, one of most important National Parks in Italy. You should take care of nature as usual within the boundaries of all the natural parks. Free camping is not allowed and fires are strictly forbidden. The whole fauna and flora are protected. Don’t disturb fauna and other mountaineering and hikers’ peacefulness with every kind of noise.