Chimney Gully

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.90440°N / 68.9228°W
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, Scrambling
Seasons Season: Winter
Additional Information Time Required: A few days
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: Class 4
Additional Information Difficulty: Moderate
Additional Information Grade: II
Sign the Climber's Log

Chimney Gulley Chimeny Peak Mountaineers Route

Chimney Gully climbs from aprroximately 2,900 feet at the base of South Basin to 4,912 feet at the top of the gully in a saddle between Palmoa Peak and Chimney Peak.

Getting There

Baxter State Park Maine. All Parties climbing in BSP above treeline or on ice/snow climbing must register with the Park seven business days prior to the date of their climb. There are few if any ice climbs that can conveniently be done on a day-use basis. Getting to Chimney Pond in winter is a simple 16 mile walk after the mandotory pre-registering with Baxter State Park Headquaters in Millinocket Maine.

Park on Golden Road at abol Bridge. Trek into chimney pond over the Roaring Brook Road and Chimney Pond Trails 15.5 miles to overnight back country camping. Camping at Chimney Pond Provides a basecamp for climbs on the many routes, peaks, trails, and ski descents in the area.

Route Description

All climbers in South Basin must register your climb with the BSP ranger.
After registering, leave the BSP ranger station and head across Chimney Pond and into South Basin. Chimney Gully can not be seen from Chimney Pond it hides behind a rock butress on the southern wall of the Bsain Head toward the center and trend climbers left (southeast) when in South Basin. Once in the Basin looking up the southern headwall you will see a prominent snow gully. climbing is straight forward steep snow climbing, although ice can be encountered and hard snow can provide a fast surface to slide if a fall is not arrested immediately. Avalanche evidence flags lower elevation vegitaion when entering gully so take extreme care if snow conditions are questionable, the gully is one giant terrain trap but a remarkably fun climb. This route was first climbed in March 1923

Essential Gear

mountaineering gear, avalanche kit (beacon, probe, shovel).

External Links

Baxter State Park Home Page

Winter Policy

Trail Conditions Blog

Seven Day Forecast

Baxter State Park
Reservation Clerk
64 Balsam Drive
Millinocket, ME 04462



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