Waterfall Gully (winter), IV, 4 (4+)

Waterfall Gully (winter), IV, 4 (4+)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.90440°N / 68.9228°W
Additional Information Route Type: Allpine / Ice Climb
Additional Information Time Required: A long day
Additional Information Difficulty: IV, 4 (4+)
Sign the Climber's Log


Tooltip for IE: Sasshonger

Ski from Abol Parking about 12miles (20km) with a sled and all you need to stay in the park for a few days. See the park info (Baxter State Park) for all gear that you need. Sleep first night at Roaring Brook (recommend to sleep in Bunkhouse).
- Ski the next day to Chimney Pond 4miles (7km), steep and hard - need skins on your skis. Get to the Bunkhouse and rest. Next days are for climbing! See with ranger routes you want to attempt. Expect 10-12 hour trip for all the long routes: Waterfall Gully, Cilley-Barber, Chauvin-Cole, The Chimney and ... Get back the same way, can be done in one long day to Abol Parking.

Route Description

Start at 6.00

(make two parties of two, must be at least 4 people the access the climb)

- Cross the lake and scramble thought the seep snow and hidden rocks (1h)
- Locate the first waterfall pitch, located between Chimney and Cilley-Barber.

7.30 - Pitch 1 : 3 (45m)

- Climb the fist pitch (45m) 3, we simul-climb (save time)
- Belay at a good ice ledge, nice view (bring some hot cloths)

8.15 - 9.00 - Pitch 2 : 4, (4+) (45m)

- Traverse snow patch and head for the next pitch
This pitch is located in a steep gulley, hidden from light and from wind,
Belayers have nice spots on the side of gulley to belay and hide from falling ice.
* Be fast and efficient on this impressive 45m 75deg to overhanging ice 4, 4+ (depending you exit from the thin ice at the end, left 4, center 4+ or right 4+,
- Belay on good ice on top or install trad belay on the right ledge.
There are some old slings beneath the ice and some pitons on the right to retreat if you are to late or experience bad weather.

- Rest e few minutes, eat and prepare for summit ascent.

* this is your turning point, if you’re not on top of this second pitch by 12.00 you must retreat - don't expect to make the rest of the trip in less that 5h.


- Locate the right gulley, this one will lead you to the secondary peak from Baxter peak and avoid traversing the knife edge. (If you like to do the knife edge, climb the left gulley).
- Check the snow conditions, prevent attempting in avalanche snow.
- Attack the gulley by soloing the 2 and some 2+ snow and ice patches maintaining your right side.
Expect some real cool and alpine climb, move fast, take some photos and post them later...
- locate the secondary ridge of Baxter peak and join the summit ridge.
On the right side of the ridge you'll see the end of Cilley-Barber, a dark and deceiving crux end... looks pretty scary from here - but, on the other side you will notice your own climb and this one looks as impressive as Cilley-Barber... the difference is that the crux of CB is at the far end on the route and is hard to retreat.

14.00 - 15.00

- You should be close to summit making your way on the summit ridge.


- Decent via the Saddle Trail located a the far right end of the ridge past Baxter peak
* Beware : not recommended to descent via Cathedral trail...

17.00 - 18.00

Back to bunkhouse and celebrate

Next day... rest and go climb some hard stuff on Pamola.

Good luck.

Essential Gear

This is what we had by 2 person team

- ice tools, third toll
- 10 screws
- 60m super dry rope 9.2mm
- small set of small and medium nuts
- 1 Ice picket
- 1 Deadman
- Hot coffee thermos (!)
- Third rope for team of 4
- Maps, and compass
- Down parka
- Crampons...
- Digital camera
- slings for abelakof
... essential climbing stuff

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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