Walk up from Roaring Brook to Chimney Pond 2900 feet 3.3 miles. This is done so the ranger can advise you. Walk up into the North Basin to Blue Berry Knoll. Continue over the Talus to the left side of North Basin Wall about 1.5 miles.
Climb up to right side of a couloir running with water. Climb up to the right and when the exposure hits you rope up. We belayed beneath a small overhang. Climb left the up a shallow V to ledges. There is at least one pin on the way. Another shorter pitch to a grassey ledge beneath wild formation in picture. Kept left of wild formation. Now move to the right to belay under overhangs. Pass overhang on a slab with pin in its middle. Ascend to the top of the Nose-7pitches. As much height as one can get, east of the Mississippi. Continue up 2-3 more pitches up broken walls to the summit of the North Peaks 4740' This is a fairly empty part of the mountain and you will probably be alone. The north basin was probably the home of the last Glacier in the Eastern States and looks the part.
We used nuts and stoppers-plenty. Brought a hammer just in case-never used it. I would bring medium friends and lots of slings. Our rope was 150' 10.5mm Chouinard. Longer might speed things up.
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