Cholla Dome, 5.6-5.10+

Overview/Approach

Cholla and Polychrome Domes are located in the high reaches of the eastern Stronghold, below the Rockfellow group.  These two domes are separated by a gully and are easily climbed together regarding objectives.  Both domes feature south facing walls making them a good winter destination as long as the two approach trail options are not buried by heavy snow and melting ice (it happens).  Even in those conditions, the In the Shadows Trail option is not that difficult to navigate.

Cholla Dome features a good selection of easy moderate slab multi pitch and/or long single pitch climbs.   When you use the In the Shadows Trail, you come to Polychrome Dome first, descending downhill from there and bushwhacking north to reach the gully separating the two domes.  Cholla Dome is to the east of the gully and offers a handful of fun 5.8 slab climbs right out of the gully:  Tears for Cholla, 5.8+***, Legend of Choy Chi, 5.8+** and Escape Artist, 5.8**.  On the direct south face are two moderate mixed (trad and bolts) gems:  Cheeseler, 5.8** and Learning to be the Good Girl, 5.9+***.  These two routes share the same start but vary greatly in type.  Cheeseler features a stellar bolted slab 2^nd pitch whereas Good Girl offers an outstanding long 2^nd pitch with corner stemming, a roof pull and decent slab finish of its own. 

You can approach from either of two trails that take off south from the main trail on the east side of the Stronghold that follows the drainage up to the Rockfellow Group and Cochise Dome.  Both trails veer off south way before you reach the creek above the waterfall rock drainage.  The preferred approach, if focused on these two domes, is the Into the Shadows Trail.  It is the highest of the two.  You find it easily, as it starts at where you normally cross, on the main trail, a crevassed rock drainage under a significant tree.  Look over your left shoulder and hike east a few meters to locate the trail.  Follow it up and at a cairned split up the hill, stay left.  Turning right leads to Maybe and Likely Domes.  Continue up well cairned (2024) switchbacks.  You eventually arrive above the domes which are located below and to the east, but you cannot see them.  The trail leads you to a col where you are starring directly at Polychrome’s aesthetic SW face.  To reach the gully in between the domes, descend a climber’s trail down and pick a bushwhack line north to reach it.  Making the base of this gully allows access to the largest group of moderates on both domes.  To reach Cheeseler and Good Girl, scramble through boulders heading east from the gully staging area.  The best belay stance is atop a pointy boulder.

Routes Listed Left to Right Out of the Gully

Kennel Caper- 5.8/

Chain Link Chew Toy, 5.10, 2 Pitches/

Escape Artist- 105’-5.8*/ This is the left most fully bolted line on the broad SW face of Cholla.  It starts just left of a large square block.  There is a nice crack at the same grade running through the green lichen just to the left of the bolted line, I guess a variation if you will of the bolted line.  It would have no doubt been better to leave this a trad climb sans bolts.  The bolted line climbs edges and slab to its own fixed rap anchor at the very west end of Cholla.  A single 60m rope just makes the rap.   10 draws.  Route receives sun most of the day in winter.  Dow

Backcountry Bandit- 5.6X/

Legend of Choy Chi- 160’-5.8+**/ This is a more sustained and fully bolted lead just to the left of Tears for Cholla.  Scramble up the gully and start up and left from the treed start for Tears for Cholla.  Climb through a bolted overhang with no real roof pull but rather a stem over.  The start features sustained edge climbing at the grade.  Once up and over the overhang through three bolts, a low angled jaunt gets you started on the steeper bolted slab left of the water stain which is Tears for Cholla.  This section features thoughtful slab climbing the whole way to the route's own fixed rap.  With a single 60m rope you can swing west and just make it to the base of Escape Artist or you can use Tears for Cholla’s mid rap anchor to get further down the gully in two raps.  11 draws.  Route receives sun most of the day in winter.  Dow

Tears for Cholla, 5.8+, 2 Pitches***/ It makes sense to lead this route in one long pitch vs two as the guide suggests. It is approximately 40’ taller than Legend of Choy Chi.  A single 70m rope makes it in one lead easy, a 60m will require a small amount of simul climbing to reach the top rap anchor.  An interesting and sustained bolted slab and edge lead for the grade.  Scramble up the gully to a treed ledge up and right below a shallow left facing corner.  Climb through four bolts to a short low angled area that allows you to gain the steeper bolt line on the tall water stain above.  A fixed rap is passed enroute.  The water stain offers fun climbing to the top via crystals and slab.  11 draws.  Route receives sun most of the day in winter.  Can take supplemental small gear and long slings for slinging features if this route is at your grade level.  Dow

South and East Faces, Routes Listed Left to Right

Cheeseler, 5.8, 2 Pitches***/ Definitely worth doing. The 2nd pitch, a long bolted slab, offers great sustained movement at the grade. Dow

Learning to be the Good Girl, 5.9+, 2 Pitches****/ Good Girl is the best moderate on either dome. The 2nd pitch offers an amazing corner/arete climb with great exposure and views.  Dow

Beating Bears with Bells, 5.8+, 2 Pitches/

Skidding Through Life, 5.10+PG, 2 Pitches/