Owl Rock, 5.7-5.12

Overview/Approach

Owl Rock makes for an ideal rest day objective.  It is a short hike from the end of the dirt road below Batline Dome.  The local guide only features two routes, the classic moderate Nightstalker, 5.9+PG****, and Naked Prey, 5.12-, located on the opposite side (west face).  MP.com adds another three routes as of 2023.  There are few tower-like objectives in the Stronghold and this is one of them.  Although it does not near resemble an owl as the tower of the same name in Arches National Park, it is fairly similar in size.  Its upper east face is plated varnish adding to the aesthetics of the climb.

If you have a high clearance vehicle, you can park at the base of the east face of Batline Dome (end of the road).  This is a popular camping road that is accessed by taking the first right after the cattle guard and before the interpretive sign.  It is not that far to walk if you don’t have a high clearance vehicle.  From the end of the road, drop down into the deep ravine/wash via a well-established trail.  Walk up wash a short distance and cross up and ascend the other side.  Owl is the obvious tower in front of you once you get up on the northern bank.  Nightcrawler is on the east face, you start between a massive boulder and the tower.

Route Descriptons

East Face, Left to Right

Nightstalker- 110’-5.9PG****/ This is the best 5.9 single pitch route in all of Cochise.  It only receives one star from the local guide because it is not a sport route.  Yet it warranted a full page photo in the same guide (2020).  Nightstalker climbs the southeast face of the Owl. Chimney or stem up between a boulder and the tower to clip the first bolt.  Make a committing move to the face and make a move or two of face climbing at the grade to gain a foot ledge to traverse left on to reach the second bolt.  Climb up to the #4 horizontal crack and mantle the left upper wall.  The climbing is sustained at or just below the grade.  Elephant ear sized patina shows up the taller you go and thus the climbing eases as well.  Pass through two more bolts and sling features when you desire.  First three of the four pro bolts are spinners (2020).  A #4, along with a few smaller pieces and slung features protect the route reasonably well between the four clips. I don’t agree with the PG rating nor runout discussion on MP.com.  Learn to trad climb and then it is not run out.  Rap with a single 70m.  Climb it in December and you won’t have to worry about disturbing the bees (MP.com chatter).  Dow

Woodsy the Owl- 80’-5.8/ A fun route with the exception of the quality of rock which is poor.  One of the worse rock faces I have soloed on in Cochise.  Walk around to the north of the major block that leans against the east face to form the start to Nightstalker.    Start up the middle of the next face to the north.  Face climb up some chossy rock aiming for the left side of a hanging corner above.  Continue up to another hanging corner and yard on a massive, but suspect, elephant ear sized flake.  Walk the positive edges up to a fixed rap.  Dow

Give a Hoot- 5.7+/

West Face, Left to Right

Moonlight Prowler- 5.5/

Naked Prey- 90'-5.12-/