Out of Downers Dome, 5.8-5.10+

Overview/Approach

Out of Downers Dome is a remote wall on the east side above Out of Towners Dome.  There is not a single bolt on it, which is somewhat refreshing compared to how much hardware can be found on the east side.  It sports three excellent moderate off-width climbs, none of which get any praise from the most recent (2024) local guide book author who rarely gives good trad climbs much love in the Stronghold.  MP.com only lists one of these stellar moderate OW’s.

Hogback Growler, 5.8PG** is located at the far-left side of this south facing wall.  Although published as three pitches in the local guide, this route can easily be done in two.  The first lead offers an amazing chimney to off width start in a surreal alcove setting.  When the wide ends, the climbing continues below grade to the top of the left side of the wall.  The 3^rd pitch is a quick and easy traverse east to the lone rap on this feature, a slung boulder at the apex.  Moving through a cave like atmosphere back east, you find the next moderate off width, Hockey Stick Crack, 5.9+PG***.  The PG given by the guide must be for the low angled finish as the off width protects well to its top with gear no larger than a #6.  The crux of this route is a perfect #5 crack through the arch above.  Bar Bitch You Ate Bypass, 5.8, shares the same start and finish as Hockey Stick.  This is a contrived pitch in that it uses another route’s start and finish and forces you to make a runnout traverse out right to gain a cool flake.  The flake is fun, but the traverse needed ot reach it causes you to have to do this route in two pitches vs one.  The irony is that the local guide gave PG ratings to Hogback and Hockey Stick, but none for Bar Bitch.  The first two are not PG in my opinion but Bar Bitch definitely is.  There is no protection as you traverse right out of the crack to the flake, with a potential large swing back into the corner.  Poo Tongue Crack, 5.8****, is the best off-width at its grade in the entire Stronghold.  It is a stouter lead than Hogback by a significant margin.  You will actually employ real off-width technique to climb Poo.  It is a great route from bottom to top on the best rock on Out of Downers.

As you ascend towards Out of Towners Dome, just before you get into the large trees above, look to bushwhack for a second to the west and locate a cairned climber’s path that leads horizontally to the base of Out of Downers Dome.  To reach all the routes, it is best to slide into a narrow slot through a frontal wall to reach the base of this south facing dome.  Poo Tongue is directly to your right.  Hockey Stick and Bar Bitch share the same start and are directly to your left.  Hogback takes some fun scrambling downward through this corridor amongst a cave like atmosphere to reach a cool belay alcove.  The lone rap atop Out of Downers lands you back down between Hockey Stick and Poo Tongue. 

Descent

A 70m rope will not make it to the ground from the slung boulder on the summit.  We had doubles but if you just have a single 70m, you can leave a sling and biner on a large horn about 40’ down climbers right.  A single 70m will then make the rap in two. We replaced the old slings of the main slung rap. 

Routes Listed Left to Right, Facing the South Face of this Formation

Hogback Growler- 3 Pitches- 5.8PG**/ A worthy off-width climb at the grade in a cool setting.  Not as good of rock nor as sustained as Poo Tongue Crack, but fun at the grade.  Start up the wide with plenty of edges to assist with little real off width technique needed.  Eventually it breaks up and right following a ramp.  Follow this ramp to a crack that heads back up and eventually the easily combined first two pitches finish on low angled ground to the left summit shoulder of the formation with a large tree or boulder to sling.  The local guide has this route as three pitches, but it is easy for the competent leader to make one fun 200’ lead on the main wall.  The last pitch is mostly just scrambling along the top.  Follow the easy ramp up and climbers right along a right facing corner, then follow large chickenheads to the top.  Hike towards the real summit of the formation fighting trees and cacti along the way to reach the shared slung rap at the top of the formation.  Local guide references doubles to #4, single to #5, but a competent leader will be good with a single to #5.  Take plenty of extension if combining the first two pitches as I recommend.  Route gets sun most all day in winter.  Dow

Dudes Without Ludes- 5.10+PG/

Hockey Stick Crack- 200’-5.9+PG***/ This route features a fun wide off-width start followed by a sustained #5 crack that arcs right.  At its end, mantle up and left on a shallow feature and climb easy chickenheads above to a choice of trees or cacti blocking your way back to the slung rap.  I prefer the bushwhack through the trees.  There are no bolts on the wall and Scott Ayers, for example, has not climbed any of these routes as of 2024.  They are all good to outstanding but do require larger cams than #4.  For Hockey, bring a single to #6 and double or triple #5’s.  Plenty of extension will be needed.  Route gets sun most all day in winter.  Dow

Bar Bitch You Ate Bypass- 2 Pitches- 5.8/ Unlike Hockey Stick, you have to divide this route into two pitches as it is a bit contrived.  It steals the wide start and long finish of Hockey Stick Crack.  Start out in Hockey Stick and when you get to the pure #5 crack above, set a high #5 and step down a meter or two to traverse well featured but run out slab to your right, 30’, to reach the obvious flake.  Protect under the flake with a #3 and layback up onto it.  You can get a knee jam when entering the flake after one solid layback.  Continue to a stance below a roof that takes medium to large gear for the belay.  For the 2^nd pitch, traverse the face up and left to hook into the finish for Hockey Stick.  You can place a piece up in the roof and downclimb a meter or two to avoid too much swing potential, but of course then will have to wait to place a piece on the easy Hockey Stick finish so you don’t create too much rope drag.  You can get some wires or offsets in plates on the finish before running low angled ground to the top.  Single to #6.  Many slings for extension.  Route gets sun most all day in winter.  Dow

Out of Downers Crack- 5.10R/

Poo Tongue Crack- 160’-5.8+****/ This is the best off-width in Cochise at the grade and of course gets zero recommendation in the local guide.  This route also offers the best rock on this formation.  Enter the off width at the far right side of the corridor and immediately use off width technique placing #6’s and #5’s or walking a single set of each.  Makes sense to flip around at least once if not twice to utilize the best assisting edges.  After the wide, the grade drops off and you follow easy chickenheads trending right and then back left up to the slung summit rap. Single to #6 for the competent leader at the grade.  Doubles #5 and #6 for those pushing the grade.  Plenty of extension to avoid rope drag.  Route receives sun most all day in winter.  Dow