Surrealist Dome, 5.4-5.12-

Overview/Approach

One of the more moderate, yet quiet, areas to go cragging on the east side is the Lost Canyon area located way up the hill below the east end of the Rockfellow Group.  Due to the length of the approach compared to crags lower down, these walls remain relatively serene.   Lost Canyon for the most part is comprised of four domes, listed from east to west on approach:  Chalkboard, Surrealist, Cholla and Polychrome.  Chalkboard Dome is the first objective you come to on approach from the east side and features the second largest collection of routes of the four domes. 

Surrealist is the 2nd dome you come to on approach and it offers a striking south face where its moderate classics, False Mirror, 5.9+**, and Treachery of Images, 5.8+, are found at the east end of said face.  Lugubrious Game, 5.10+*, at the west end looks to be an intriguing off-width, but getting to it is no small task.

Approach from the east side as you would for the Rockfellow Group.  Beyond the right turn for the Stronghold Dome, keep an eye out for a trail cutting out left which is Lost Canyon Trail.  Ascend this trail as it switchbacks up the steep hill to the base of the east face of Chalkboard Dome, which lands you right below the obvious roof of Lance Armstrong Walked on the Moon.  Continue up and left circumventing Chalkboard's southwest end and Surrealist will be the next dome that comes into view.  Getting to the base of Mirror and Images (share the same belay area) is a fun and unique jaunt under and over boulders, even utilizing a fixed line at one point. You approach from the very east end through massive boulders.  You belay on a series of boulders.  To climb Lugubrious will require an entirely different approach. The view towards Mexico atop these boulders is one of the best in the Stronghold.

Routes Listed Right to Left on the South Face

South Face

Second Thoughts- 80'-5.8+ PG/

Raphaelesque Head Exploding- 80'-5.8+ PG*/

Paranoiac Critical Solitude- 80'-5.11-**/

Menanced Assassin- 160'-5.4 R/

Treachery of Images- 75’-5.8+*/ Climb the crack just to the right of False Mirror.  After the crack ends, trend up and left through seven bolts vs five as stated in the guide.  The traverse left at the top of the crack is the crux move at the grade.   The right of two bolted lines just left of the black water streak (Menaced Assassin).  Dow

False Mirror- 80’-5.9+**/ The crux for most would be the slab move or two over the first bolt.  The rest of the route is engaging, but not 5.9+.  Eleven bolts instead of nine as the local guide has published (2021).  The left of two bolted lines just left of the black water streak (Menaced Assassin).  Dow

Empire of Light- 100'-5.11+**/

Persistence of Memory- 80'-5.12-**/

Lugubrious Game- 95'-5.10+*/

Southwest Face

Slowy Towards the North- 5.4R*/

Multiplication of the Arcs- 140'-5.6+ PG/