Cima di Nasta

Overview

Cima di Nasta 3108 m

Cima di Nasta is an interesting rocky peak situated in the Maritime Alps, in a secluded position between Colletto della Forchetta and Colle di Nasta; it’s a stately gneiss peak overlooking the Rifugio Remondino with its impressive West Face and lined up along the same chain as Corno Stella. Cima di Nasta is formed by three main summits, lined up along a ridge running for about one hundred meters; the highest summit is the Central one. From this summit a pronounced ridge starts heading toward SSW and giving rise to a detached peak - the SW Uja di Nasta - while from the West summit another pronounced ridge starts heading towards NW and giving rise to an other detached peak – the NW Uja di Nasta -. Cima di Nasta has a very easy “Normal Route”, starting from the Rifugio Remondino and reaching the magnificent Lago di Nasta m 2800, one of the highest lakes in the Maritime Alps. From the lake the route rises towards North, heading to a gully. An easy scramble is getting to the Central summit, the highest.

The most important face to climb is the shady West Face, a 250-300 meters high face rising in front of Rifugio Remondino. This wall has a plenty of classic and modern climbs on high quality gneiss. An obvious ridge, starting from the West summit, runs in the middle of the West Face. Along this ridge is rising maybe the best classic route of Cima di Nasta, named Spigolo Vernet (Vernet Ridge), one of most frequently climbed routes in Maritime Alps. Cima di Nasta reputation is due to its interesting climbing routes, its fine milieu and its closeness to the hut.

Cima di Nasta è un'elegante vetta rocciosa situata nelle Alpi Marittime, in posizione isolata tra il Colletto della Forchetta e il Colle di Nasta; è una maestoso montagna di gneiss che domina il rifugio Remondino con la sua imponente parete ovest, allineata lungo la stessa catena del Corno Stella. La Cima di Nasta è formata da tre sommità principali, allineate lungo una cresta lunga circa un centinaio di metri; la vetta più alta è quella centrale. Da questa sommità una cresta pronunciata si dirige verso SSW dando origine a una torre staccata - Uja di Nasta Sud-Ovest- mentre dalla sommità occidentale un'altra cresta pronunciata si dirige verso NW dando origine ad un' altra torre staccata - Uja di Nasta Nord-Ovest -. La Cima di Nasta presenta una Via Normale molto semplice, con partenza dal Rifugio Remondino, raggiungendo il magnifico Lago Nasta 2800 m, uno dei laghi più alti delle Alpi Marittime. Dal lago il percorso sale verso nord, dirigendosi verso un burrone. Una facile arrampicata conduce alla vetta centrale, la più elevata.

La parete più importante da scalare è l'ombrosa Parete Ovest, alta circa 250-300 metri, situata proprio di fronte al Rifugio Remondino. Questa parete presenta diverse salite classiche e moderne su gneiss di alta qualità. Un marcato spigolo,  a partire dalla sommità occidentale, corre nel mezzo della parete Ovest. Lungo questa dorsale sale forse la migliore via classica della Cima di Nasta, chiamata Spigolo Vernet (Vernet Ridge), una delle vie più frequentemente scalate delle Alpi Marittime. La reputazione di Cima di Nasta è dovuta alle sue interessanti vie di arrampicata, all' ambiente selvaggio e alla vicinanza al rifugio.

History

The first ascent to the top (1878, september, the twenty-seventh) was realized by the british D.W. Freshfield and his guide F. Devouassoud along North Side.

Getting There

Road access

From Turin (85 km.) or Genova (145 km.) follow the autoroute Torino-Savona as far as Cuneo exit. From Cuneo follow the road to Borgo San Dalmazzo, driving up on Valle Gesso and reaching Terme di Valdieri (35 km. from Cuneo). From here a narrow road, at least unpaved, leads up a lateral valley named Vallone della Casa; follow it as far as Pian della Casa, where the road ends (mt. 1743, parking). 6,5 km. from Terme di Valdieri.

Hut

Rifugio Franco Remondino

Rifugio Franco Remondino  2430 m

Owner: CAI Club Alpino Italiano Sez. Cuneo
Size: 46 people + 12 in the winter shelter
Open:  from June to September

Approach

From Pian della Casa 1743 m – parking lot - a good path follows the Vallone di Assedras leading to the hut in about 2 hours from the parking. The hut is a natural “belvedere” over the Argentera Massif and a strategic important hut for all the ascents to Cima Nasta, Argentera Normal Route and several treks inside the Argentera and Nasta groups, offering meals and beds. 

Cima di Nasta Normal Routes

Cima di Nasta has three Normal Routes and all of them are easy; the North one is the route of the first summiters. This party in 1878 realized the peak's cross, rising along North Side and going down along SE Ridge. Another Normal Route is getting to the top rising along the South gully (V. de Cessole – J.B and J. Plent in 1898).

North Side F, 180 m. The route is starting from Colle di Nasta 2939 m, situated between Cima di Nasta and Cima Paganini (1,30 hour from Remondino Hut).
SE Ridge PD, 160 m. This route is starting from Colle della Forchetta 2950 m (1,30 hour from Remondino Hut).
South Gully F, 250 m. The easier route and the most frequented (2 hours from Remondino Hut).

"Mai dire io" report - West Face

Mai dire Io starting slabs

"Mai dire io" - West face

Summit altitude: m. 3108
Difficulty: TD inf., F6a, F5b+ obbl.
Length: 320 m.
Equipment: spaced bolts, friends useful
First ascent: Beppe Viberti and Bruno Ronzini in 1999 summer
Hut: Rifugio Remondino m. 2430 in upper Assedras Valley

A very fine modern route on excellent gneiss, requiring a bit of experience in placing running protections. The route is dedicated to Gabriele Beuchod.

"Mai dire io" report

From the hut rise along steep slopes towards West Face, heading to an obvious slabs’zone, situated in the left-hand sides of the face, near a groove-gully. The snow sometimes remains also in late summer. Starting point is W face highest point, nearby a zone of light slabs, cut by a thin crack, and 20 mt. on the left-hand side of “Lupo Alberto”, another easier modern route.

L1 – Climb the smooth sloping slabs to the upper ledge. 6a, 40 mt. L2 – From the belay climb up straightly the steep wall, heads to left and climb another steep wall, then a slab and a little wall. 6a, 45 mt. L3 – Climb straight a steep slab with good holds. 5b, 50 mt. L4–L5 Two pitches 45 mt. long, always straightly along another slab. 5b L6 – Another slab is leading lightly towards left to a prominence. Belay after climbing the prominence. 5a, 30 mt.

A slab on the route "Mai Dire Io"

Climbing on Cima di Nasta

Cima Nasta W Face from T. Querzola

L7 – Climb up straightly, then slants to left heading towards some steep corners cutted by some cracks, climb the corners reaching a new slab and belay on a ledge near a little edge. 5b, 50 mt. L8 – Climb easy slantways towards right, reaching a new belay. 3c, 40 mt. L9 – Traverse right. 4a. 40 mt. L10 – Climb a steep wall on the right-hand side of an obvious crack in the shape of a Z. An easy ridge is leading to the summit. 3a, 100 mt. Summit cross. Descent: along S Side Normal Route, reaching Nasta Lake and from here Remondino Hut. (1,15 hours from the summit to the hut).

Other routes - West Face

W Face - Other routes (from left to right)

Lupo Alberto - modern route F5a
Spigolo Vernet – classic route – IV+ UIAA, 400 m
Strapiombi di Nasta – modern route - F6b
Mantra di Pietra - modern route - F6c+, 200 m
Bouquet des Amis - F6b (6a obbl.), 400 m

Red tape

There are not special restrictions in climbing, hiking and mountaineering. Anyhow Cima di Nasta is located inside Parco delle Alpi Marittime, established in 1980, so some basic rules concerning environmental respect are essential. Fires are forbidden and free camping is not allowed. To bivy is authorized only at more than 1 hour’s walk from the park's boundaries or from the access roads. The whole fauna and flora is protected.

Climate

The name of Maritime Alps range - to which it belongs Cima di Nasta - must not deceive you: the range is located nearby the sea, but the climate is alpine with cold winters and many snowfalls. The best season to climb Cima di Nasta W Face, a shady and cold environment, is the summertime.

Flora

 

A rare shot of Saxifraga Florulenta

"SAXIFRAGA FLORULENTA MORETTI", AN ENDEMIC RARITY.

Guidebooks

“Alpi Marittime Vol. II” by Euro Montagna-Lorenzo Montaldo-Francesco Salesi – Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI-TCI “Le Alpi del mare" – Scalate moderne nei massicci dell’Argentera e del Mongioie” by Flaviano Bessone – Idee Verticali Edizioni

Maps

"Alpi Marittime" Map 1:30.000 - Meridiani Montagne