Cima Piccolina 2655 m
Cima Piccolina is a fine spire culminating in a tiny summit surrounded by beautiful granite peaks. As its name suggests - Piccolina means "tiny" - Cima Piccolina is a minor summit, anyhow spectacular, belonging to Presanella Group, South-Eastern sector (Val d'Amola) and located in Val d'Amola, not far from Rifugio Segantini, on a secondary ridge that branches off from the long main ridge dividing the Val di Nardis from Val d'Amola. The variety of climbs offered by this latter valley is remarkable and it does, as far as rock climbing, one of the most interesting areas of Presanella. They range from the classic climbs on Campanile di San Giusto to the East wall of Cima Presanella and to the modern routes on Cima Piccolina, excellent introduction to the particular environment of this area.
Cima Piccolina is a small but truly interesting peak, because of the wonderful alpine setting and its fine and compact East wall, made in a good quality of granite, the Tonalite, the typical rock of Presanella Group. There are different routes on East wall, both trad and moderne ones, here it's related one of the moderne, the route "Akku", which is a quite advisable climb.
The road access is from Val Rendena, where a turn-off road allows to reach by car up to more than 2000 m of altitude (Vallina d'Amola).
Getting to Val Rendena
Coming from Autobrennero exit Trento and take the road to Riva del Garda, reaching the village Le Sarche. Here continue straight toward Tione di Trento. In Tione turn to right and take the SS 239 Val Rendena route to Pinzolo. Pass Pinzolo and drive a few kilometers towards Madonna di Campiglio. After the village of Carisolo, leave the main road and turn to left, taking a narrow road rising along Val Nambrone towards Laghi di Cornisello.
After driving about 9 km on this road with several hairpins we reach a fork. The main road leads to Laghi di Cornisello, we instead turn to left (Rif. Segantini signposts), omit the path n. 211 on our right hand side and continue driving for about 1 km, parking at the bridge over the river Sarca ahead Vallina d’Amola alp (2020 m.).
Akku report - French scale
Summit altitude: 2655 m
Difficulty: 6a+ max - French scale
Climbing length: 180 m
Equipment: equipped belays, some bolts along the pitches to be integrated with quick protections
Starting point: Parking lot in Vallina d'Amola
First ascent: Davide Ortolani and Alessandro Botteri 14-9-2010
Excellent route which requires a good level and alternates compact slabs and dihedral-cracks. At first it follows a shallow corner on the right hand of the compact East wall. The rock is a kind of granite named "tonalite" and the route is quite advisable, in an alpine setting of great beauty.
Walking approach: from the parking lot there are two possibilities (anyhow the two paths soon join above): take immediately the left path (without crossing the stream) - mainly horizontal - or alternatively cross the stream on the bridge, follow the wide track above Malga Vallina d'Amola and then cross the river again taking the path SAT 211 b "Michele Mattasoglio".
L1 - The starting point is below a shallow corner. Climb it, then slantig right reach a dihedral-crack system. Follow it to reach the belay, 5c, then 4c, 45 m. (4 bolts)
L2 - From the belay traverse to the left around an edge, then climb directly the upper compact slabs. At the end start to climb sharply to the right with some delicate steps to reach the belay, 6a+, 40 m (6 bolts).
L3 - Directly above the stance for a few meters, then traverse left and keep the slabs, climb it and belay at the base of easier rocks, 6a, 45 m (6 bolts).
L4 - Easier rocks lead directly to the next belay, 3c, 25 m.
L5 - Continue reaching the final wall, that is climbed along a short edge and the ending slab to the last belay, 4b, 25 m
From the fifth belay head - which marks the end of the route Akku - head to right and scramble up on easy rock for about 100 meters to reach the fine tiny summit of Cima Piccolina.
Descent - from the summit return downclimbing to the last belay. From here five abseil to the bottom of the wall
More info: Akku
Rope 2 x 60m, helmet, a set of friends
"Mille splendidi soli"
“Vive le rock”
“ME con TEK e TEK con MEK”
“Per far contento Remo”
There are no particular restriction in climbing and hiking. Cima Piccolina is located within Adamello-Brenta Natural Park, the largest protected area in Trentino, established in the year 1967. It's located in Western Trentino and with its 620.51 square kilometers includes the mountain groups of Adamello, Presanella and Brenta Dolomites, separated by Val Rendena.
Best period to climb goes from middle June to middle September
Several possibilities of accomodation in Val Rendena.
"Presanella" - Guida dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI - Dante Ongari, 1978
"110 Itinerari Alpinistici del Gruppo della Presanella" - Urbano Dell'Eva, Edizioni Manfrini 1985
"Adamello - Presanella" - Tabacco scala 1:25000