Echoes, 5.10-, PG, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Entrance Dome, despite its size, does not get much attention and rightfully so regarding the lack of quality routes established on it.  Although nothing special, the route “Echoes” does offer up one of the few pure multi-pitch trad routes on the east side. The first pitch does harbor a single bolt.   Entrance Dome’s obvious left to right leaning crack on its prominent upper southeast face is the 2^nd pitch of Echoes and is one of the more engaging 5.9 trad pitches in the Stronghold as you traverse its entire length.  The 3^rd pitch involves an airy traverse back left.  The 4^th pitch harbors the crux moves at the grade but is much easier and less work than the 2^nd pitch.  Mostly hero holds up softer rock on the fourth pitch.

The approach is heinous and you would be better served climbing the first three pitches of a mostly bolted route named Full Circle, 5.10PG**, vs scrambling up what the book references as the approach gully and then making the “grand traverse” right to the base of the route on the upper headwall.  I included a photo of me roped up pulling a chimney roof section in the gully.  My crew wanted a belay up that section for sure. 

Either way, hike out of camp as you would for the more popular destinations of Wasteland and Out of Towners Domes.  Once you are following the drainage directly below Entrance Dome, look for cairns (2021) that follow a faint climber's trail that switchbacks up to the base of the obvious bush/tree choked gully leading to the upper headwall.  You will notice a bolted line in the right wall at the start of this gully, that is Full Circle. You can climb its first three pitches which land you near the start of Echoes.  If staying in the gully, continue up to a crux section below a loose roof/chimney section choked full of brush.  Surmont this obstacle and continue to the left end of a long traversing ledge.  Traverse left to right across one exposed area and continue to near the end of this ledge system where Echoes starts.  The first pitch is a bit non-descript, but the objective is to trend left to the start of the right leaning diagonal (2^nd pitch). Hanging belay just above a perfect large hole in the rock.

Route Descripton

1^st Pitch- 100’-5.9 PG/ Climb a below grade ramp up and left, heading for a bolt above a small ledge.  The ramp steepens into cracks.  Traverse left through the bolt and continue to the base of the tall right leaning crack. Make a hanging belay on medium to large gear above a large hole in the rock.

2^nd Pitch- 100-5.9 PG/ Stem up and right on edges whilst placing gear and grabbing or jamming the shallow crack.  This pitch is physical and sustained at the grade.  Land at a ledge where you can sling a feature to equalize with a cam for a belay. 

3^rd Pitch- 80’-5.7/ Traverse due left with plenty of small gear opportunities.  Then up an easy broken corner to a grassy ledge below broken and weathered rock above.

4^th Pitch- 100’-5.10-/ Easier than the first two pitches.  Climb up and right on the improbable stone.  Pockets and short slots take cams.  The features are quite positive for the grade, but the terrain is steep.  After about 30’, the grade lays way back to a quick finish. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Hike east towards an immediate col.  Descend this gully until the final few meters’ cliff out.  Traverse up and right on the shoulder of the wall you just climbed.  Descend an obvious narrow gully to a slung tree.  Take a single rope rap off of this tree to the ledge below.  Make approximately four more raps with a 70m rope down a route named Full Circle. 

Essential Gear

Single to #4, Double to #3. This is a rare breed on Cochise’s east side, a true trad route. Bring micros and off-set cams as well or a good set of wires.  Shoulder length slings for extension.  Helmets advised as there is more choss than at most Cochise destinations.  70m rope.  Southeast facing wall.