Eissee-Spitze (Punta del Lago Gelato)

Eissee-Spitze (Punta del Lago Gelato)

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 46.48126°N / 10.60884°E
Additional Information County: Alto Adige/Sud Tirol
Activities Activities: Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, Scrambling
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Elevation: 10597 ft / 3230 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Punta del Lago Gelato - Eissee-Spitze 3230 m 

Eissee Spitze
Eissee Spitze/Cima del Lago Gelato

 

 

 

Punta del Lago Gelato - Eissee Spitze in German - is a fine summit belonging to the Ortles-Cevedale GroupVertana-Angelo-Lasa Subgroup. It's a minor but very interesting peak located between Passo del Lago Gelato (Eissee Pass) m. 3139 and Cima  Pozzo (Butzen-Spitze) m. 3300, on the 7 km. long ridge known as Costiera del Madriccio, running from Passo del Lago Gelato (Eissee Pass) to Passo dello Scudo (Schild-Joch) and separating the upper Val di Lasa (Laaser Tal) on the West side from the upper Val Martello (Martell Tal) on the East. Several other peaks are lined up this ridge, like Cima Pozzo, Cima Madriccio, Punta Beltovo di Dentro, Punta Peder di Dentro and Punta delle Laste. The origin of the place-name “Lago Gelato”, meaning Frozen Lake, is unknown. The peak is surrounded by several important summits, like the superb Gran Zebrù, Monte Zebrù, Ortles and Sulden-Spitze: from the top we can enjoy a wide view on these peaks and on numberless other summits inside Ortles-Cevedale Group, like the ridge Martello-Venezia-Marmotta and Madriccio Ridge. The most known route is the one situated in the Solda Valley’s side, because of the route is quickly approached by a cableway starting from Solda. The fine one starts from Nino Corsi Hut, situated in upper Martello Valley, inside a wild and peaceful environment.

 

 

Getting There

 

Eissee Spitze and upper Martell Tal map

Eissee Spitze and upper Val Martello map

ROAD ACCESS

To Refuge Nino Corsi - From A22 Brennero Motorway exit Bolzano and follow the road 38 towards Merano and Val Venosta as far as Coldrano 672 m; here leave the main road turning left and following the road entering Val Martello (Martell Tal) and leading to Paradiso del Cevedale m. 2050 where the road ends (Km. 81 from Bolzano).

To Solda – From A22 Brennero Motorway exit Bolzano and follow SS 38 towards Merano. Enter Val Venosta and keep the main road as far as Spondigna. Here turn to left and follow the road to Passo Stelvio, reaching the little village of Gomagoi. Here leave the main road to Passo Stelvio and turn to left following the road n. 622 entering Val di Solda and leading to Solda m. 1907 (Km. 95 from Bolzano).

APPROACH TO RIFUGIO NINO CORSI

Rifugio Nino Corsi (Zufall-Hutte) m. 2265 is situated very close to Paradiso del Cevedale. From here a very good path leads to the refuge in half an hour.

Eissee Spitze - Cima del Lago Gelato main routes overview

 

Climbing Punta del Lago Gelato/Eisseespitze

Sunrise on Eissee Spitze

 

Eissee Spitze NE summit ridge

Eisse Spitze summit ridge

NW Ridge - Stecknersteig

Difficulty: F+
Difference in level:
630 m
Exposure: NW, then NE
Starting point: Solda Cableway upper Station 2600 m, 2,30 by walking from Solda

An easy and panoramic route.

The route is dedicated to Albert Steckner, who in 1895 financed the setting of the route to allow an easy access to the summit and to the little refuge Halle, built on Eisseepass, destroyed during the WWI (Grande Guerra) and no longer rebuilt. The starting point is from Solda Cableway upper station 2600 m. It’s possible to stay overnight at the Refuge Città di Milano, situated below the Cableway upper station. From the station follow the track towards South and reach a fork; follow the left trail (marks “Stecknersteig”), scrambling along scree and blocks on the NW ridge – some climbing steps – and reaching the NE ridge ending section. Follow it to the summit cairn.

Descent: reversing the same route

NE Ridge

Difficulty: F+
Difference in level:
1000 m
Exposure: NE
Starting point:
Nino Corsi Hut (half an hour by walking from Paradiso del Cevedale)

A very interesting route, alternating easy rocky steps with ice slopes.

From Rifugio Nino Corsi follow the good path (marks to Martello Hut); at the stones-dam ignore on the left the path towards Martello Hut and carry on the main path n. 150, reaching a lake situated near the exit of Valle Pozzo. The path heads towards the crevassed Vedretta Lunga (Langenferner); before getting to the start of the glacier leave the main path and head to the right, walking towards a light hollow below the North-East Ridge, between Punta del Lago Gelato on the left and Cima Pozzo on the right. Scramble on the ridge, alternating snow-slopes with some steps of easy rock climbing, leading to the summit signal. The view is very interesting on numberless summits of the wide Ortles-Cevedale group and in particular on the main summits of Ortles and Gran Zebrù.

Gran Zebrù seen from Cima Madriccio
Gran Zebrù

 Descent: reversing the route 

 

NE Ridge – SE Ridge Crossing

This crossing involves some easy rocky steps while descending along the SE ridge, which leads to Vedretta Lunga (Langenferner). A short final glacier crossing along the left orographic edge of the crevassed Vedretta Lunga - rope up, the glacier is not to be taken lightly – leads to the path n.150.

Surrounding peaks

View on Venezia Subgroup
 

 

Panoramic View on Ortles - Gran Zebrù Subgroup

 

Red Tape

Eissee Spitze (Cima del Lago Gelato) - Getting to the top
Eissee Spitze (Cima del Lago Gelato) - Getting to the top
Eissee Spitze from Costiera di Madriccio
Eissee Spitze from Costiera di Madriccio

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No fees or permits needed to climb Eissee Spitze - Cima del Lago Gelato. The mountain is located inside Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio, one of most important National Parks in Italy. You should take care of nature as usual within the boundaries of all the natural parks. Free camping is not allowed and fires are strictly forbidden. The whole fauna and flora are protected. Don’t disturb fauna and peacefulness with every kind of noise.

Huts

 

Nino Corsi Hut (Val Martello)
Rifugio Nino Corsi (Val Martello)
Nino Corsi Hut and Zufritt See
Rifugio Nino Corsi and Zufritt See

 

 

Rifugio Nino Corsi (Zufall-Hütte) 2265 m - C.A.I. Milano – ½ hour from Paradiso del Cevedale- Phone 0039-0472-632472, 109 beds, open from middle june to middle September

Rifugio Città di Milano (Schaubach Hütte) 2581 m situated on the right lateral moraine of the Sulden-Ferner Glacier. Cableway from Solda m. 1907.

 

Essential gear

Rope, ice-axe and crampons

When to climb

Best season goes from middle June to middle September.

Meteo

Meteo Bolzano Alto Adige
Meteo Alto Adige

Guidebooks and maps

Guidebooks

 

Prestigiosi Tremila del Sud Tirolo - Guidebook
Ortles-Cevedale Guidebook
Ortles-Cevedale map

“Prestigiosi Tremila del Sud Tirolo” by Hanspaul Menara – Ed. Athesia
"Ortles-Cevedale – Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio”
by Gino Buscaini – Collana CAI-TCI Guide dei Monti d’Italia

Maps

“Ortles-Cevedale” , foglio 72 - Kompass 1:50.000 "Ortles-Cevedale" - Tabacco

External Links

Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio



Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.